Fence Wax

Status
Not open for further replies.

JohnsonMBrandon

New User
Brandon Johnson
Does anyone have any suggestions on wax to use for the fence on my new table saw? Also do you guys apply wax to the actual table of the saw? I have heard of a few people doing this?
 

Monty

New User
Monty
B0006933P4.01-A3LDAX1Z8QDFC._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg
 

clowman

*********
Clay Lowman
agree with insomniac. Yellow can, red stripe. I love that stuff. Put a nice layer on the fence, and the table. gives it a nice slick finish. It takes some elbow grease to get all of it off, but well worth it.

-clay
 

Monty

New User
Monty
JohnsonMBrandon said:
Do you use this on the saw table also?
Yep. I actually had treated mine with Boeshield and I haven't had any rust problems. But paste wax is cheaper, easier, more available, and accomplishes the same thing best I can tell, and you can use it for other things in the shop.
 

hpetty

New User
Hugh
What about TopCoat? I just recovered my Unisaw after it took a 1 year vacation. The top was badly rusted which I pretty welel removed. It was suggested to me that TopCoat was better than Johnsons. I used it last night on my table top and fences. Have I made a mistake?
 

Monty

New User
Monty
hpetty said:
Have I made a mistake?
I don't think so. The more I hear different opinions, the more I reach the conclusion that it really doesn't matter WHAT you use, just make sure you maintain the application. This requires periodic cleaning and re-application. No matter what's on there, nothing will last forever.

Many people have the opinion that Topcote, Boeshield, and products like that are better... I'm certainly no expert. It's not that expensive no matter what you choose to use.



Edit: Just to add, I've heard of people using something like Boeshield, then applying paste wax on top of that. Maybe that's the magic formula! who knows?... :eusa_thin
 
Last edited:

sapwood

Roger
Corporate Member
Another ditto head for Johnson Wax. Until I got a dehumidifier I had a lot of problems with rust--so I had to apply it frequently. Still have to, but not as frequently. I also apply it to runners and bottoms of wooden sleds, jigs, etc. The more the merrier, apply several coats for better protection and reduced friction.

Sapwood waxing on :)
 

SteveColes

Steve
Staff member
Corporate Member
hpetty said:
What about TopCoat? I just recovered my Unisaw after it took a 1 year vacation. The top was badly rusted which I pretty welel removed. It was suggested to me that TopCoat was better than Johnsons. I used it last night on my table top and fences. Have I made a mistake?

My experience is topcoat is terrible. If I dared sweat a drop on the table, there was rust on the table the next morining I switched to paste wax and no such problems.

Junque_Col on woodnet and TWA swears that cheap paraffin in blocks works even better
 

cloudancer

New User
Greg Dake
I'd agree with Steve on topcoat. Of course my shop was at 80+% humidity in the early summer when I had trouble. I've switched to paste wax and not had any trouble*.


* Well there was the incident with a hot pizza box that sweated a lot, but I hardly think bringing it up is fair.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
I use Minwax's brand. Available at Lowes and I am rust free. I apply it about once a month to all CI surfaces and anything that things slide against. It is also a great final touch on low abuse finishes. Dave:)
 

clowman

*********
Clay Lowman
I don't know how I don't have much problems with rust, my shop is my garage. I wax it not as often as I should.. about every 3-4 months. Of course, there was the time my wife used my table saw as a "table" for her iced tea...... overnight.. on a hot summer afternoon.... nice little rust ring i had to get off. I'm sure I yelled. (umm.. persuaded her not to do it again)

-clay
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top