Spindle Gouges - Fingernail profile

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SteveColes

Steve
Corporate Member
I have 4 spindle gouges, none of them fingernail ground. I really don't know the pros and cons. Should all spindle gouges have a fingernail grind or do you use one profile for one thing and another profile for other things. I am confused now
 

woodguy1975

New User
John
I fingernail grind all my gouges. It reduces the amount of metal you have at the tip so you can get into tighter spaces. My favorite spindle gouge is my 3/8" detail gouge. I think finger nail grinds on spindle gouges makes learning a little harder. One bowl gouges the fingernail profile is more forgiving.

Thanks,

John
 

SteveColes

Steve
Corporate Member
John thanks for the reply.

Hey guys, could I get a few more opinions on this issue? I really don't want to regrind four spindle gouges and then find out there is a good use for the standard grind:BangHead:
 

cskipper

Moderator
Cathy
Well, I haven't been turning much - between working and commuting my time seems to be non-existent. I have a fingernail profile on my bowl gouge. I don't use that profile on pens, mostly for the same reason you said - I am unsure and don't want to re-grind some if I have no reason to. For pens and things like that the regular gouges work well for me. Maybe the more experienced folks will chime in.
 

JRD

New User
Jim
Steve,

I only use a fingernail grind on my bowl gouge. I'm not sure why that is, only that it works for me.

Jim
 

gsdoby

New User
Gary
Since you have four gouges maybe you should just regrind one and see how it feels, especially if you have one that you currently do not like. I am a faily new turner myself and have gone through different phases. Lately I find myself using my bowl gouge with a fingernail grind more thatn my spindle gouge. It seems to be a matter of what you are comfortable with.
 

jtdums

New User
Jim
Steve,
As a new turner I have found that grinding the fingernail grind is a tough one to do free hand. Let me suggest a jig like the wolverine to help before you try and end up with a less than satisfactory result. I use a wolverine jig with a shop made base and have been very happy with the results. I must admit that I use the fingernail grind on a 1/2" bowl gouge with great success. If you don't want to spend the $$$ on the jig there are plans online to build the entire system out of wood and simple hardware.
-Jim
 

Mark Anderson

New User
Mark
i'll second jim's sugestion, sharpen one to a fingernail and try it out. i would sugest that you just pt a slight fingernail on it and give it a try, add more later and work with it some more. i'm willing to bet that you wind up with 3 finger nails of diferant shapes, and one strait.

discliamer: i just started turning a few weeks ago myself
 

SteveColes

Steve
Corporate Member
I guess I should clarify a bit. The 4 spindle gouges are all different sizes. I have a tormek with the fingernail profile grinding jig. My bowel gouge came with a fingernail profile already.
 

woodguy1975

New User
John
I would grind a 3/8" or 1/4" gouge to a fingernail to try it. Fingernail grinds do help with finer detail work. I still have a 1/2" spindle PM gouge that I leave standard for more gradual transitions I think it is easier to use. For nice clean tight beads gotta go to a fingernail grind or skew. We don't want to go to the skew.:lol:
 

Big Mike

New User
Mike
Steve I am very late to this post. I use short bevel fingernail ground spindle gouges for hollowing the inside of boxes, small vases etc. I use longer beveled fingernail ground spindle and detail gouges for shaping/detailing the outside of a box or shaping a spindle or finial. The longer bevel which also results in the "corners" being swept back make it easier to roll the gouge and make beads and coves and to reach into tight places and execute clean cuts. I will post a picture or two of some short bevel fingernail ground spindle gouges.

The first picture is of spindle gouges ground with a short bevel fingernail grind. The short bevel is handy for hollowing the inside of boxes and small vases etc. where the wood grain is running parallel to the axis of rotation; an end grain turning.

The second picture shows more fingernail grinds. In the tools on the left, the detail gouges which are pictured second from the top and fifth from the top have much longer bevels and are used for shaping the outside of boxes or spindles.

The bottom gouge on the left and the two Craftsman gouges on the right are flatter in profile spindle gouges and are suitable only for spindles or the outside of boxes. The one on the left is a 1/2" Continental forged gouge which is ground more or less straight across and is my favorite for pens.

I use different profiles and shapes for different jobs.
 

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Big Mike

New User
Mike
Travis, the short answer is "a few". More than enough. I have specialized grinds for different operations since I do boxes, spindles, finials, bowls, segmented work and pens. I need to specialize.....:rolf:
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
Hmmmm.....

That was a cop out, but I can see not wanting to admit the absolute number. About like asking me how many router bits I have.

Not enough is my standard answer.
 

Big Mike

New User
Mike
Well, I have a few router bits as well. Many more than I have turning tools but the turning tools are gaining on them.....:rolf:

I just made two more turning tools today. I just finished up with a new skewchigouge and a 3/8" thick x 1/2" wide square scraper. If you haven't skewcheed you haven't had any fun.....;-)

Here's a pic of a skewchigouge....I highly recommend them for spindles and such....
 

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mshel

New User
Michael Shelley
Mike,

How about a tutorial on making a skewchigouge. I would like to have one but need some guidence on how to make it.

Mike
 

Big Mike

New User
Mike
SteveColes said:
But first, what is it? Is the idea the same as Sorby's Spindle master?

Steve, I haven't used the Sorby spindle master but having seen pictures of one I would say yes. I had the opportunity to try out a skewchigouge recently and ordered some stock for my own.

Mike, to make one you need some round HSS bar stock in 1/4" or 3/8". Then it is just a matter of using the Wolverine jig to form the bevel on the bottom. I ground mine with the vari-grind in the middle notch. I just guesstimated the correct angle. The bevel is ground half way and then the the bar is taken out of the jig and turned over and placed in the tool holder and ground with the tip high up on the wheel so that a curved flat meets the bevel in the middle.

Sure makes spindle turning a lot easier.
 

jglord

New User
John
Thanks for the great insight on the variety of gouge shapes! :eusa_clap

Am I correct in thinking you add new shapes/grinds when you find what you've got doesn't produce the results you want or do you have some more concrete guidance on what makes a good assortment. :eusa_thin I'm a beginning turner but I guess, like a lot of my other tool acquisitions, I add as I encounter new problems.

New projects are simply one of many rationales for new tools. ;-)
 
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