Went back and read the article again. Not sure Flexner is telling us anything we don’t already know.
Wood for decks, species & lumber grade equal longevity (15 to 30 years). Treated pine may have less than 7 years if not sealed. Heartwood definitely better than Sapwood. The denser the wood used the better so Cedar, Redwood, Ipe, Teak, and Mahogany are the best choices. Only surface treatment needed maybe sealing the ends of the boards. Of course can seal tops of boards if you want too. Also where you live and relative humidity will affect longevity. The cost of an installed Teak or IPE deck, might be more expensive than a composite installed deck.
How about wood flooring which was installed 50 to 100 years ago inside homes? Not sure anyone took time to finish both sides. Condition of such flooring may run poor to great. Quarter sawn boards still make the best for flooring. Even manufactured flooring boards will cup or rise if not installed properly.
Cupping of an old drop leaf table? When was it built? Are you dealing with wood veneer covered tops, or actual wide boards? Plenty of old growth timber (wide boards) used to make furniture around without much cupping and warping. The finish of choice for this really old stuff could be wax, oil, or shellac. Due to age maybe hard to tell if both sides of the board were finished on both sides. Veneer covered table tops may suffer from glue separation of boards below the veneer.
Of course can always argue laying out and gluing up narrow boards by alternating the grow rings. Or not alternating growth rings. Guess that works both ways too!
The article is what it is! Bob, was paid to talk story in a small article which by no means solves all of life’s little problems.