Router table ideas?

[Trent Mason]

Hi everyone,

Two weekends ago I managed to get enough motivation to move an entire mountain range managed to clean up the shop. :gar-La; In the process, I ended up with some more usable space. I have the el cheapo Ryobi Router and RT at the moment. Currently, there's not a whole lot of $$$ in the tool budget and I'd like to build my own RT. I have some counter tops that I got from Phillip a year or so ago (thanks man!) and thought about using a piece of one of those for the table top.

One idea I had was to route out a groove (or cut out and build a support) and sink the original table top that came with the router into the counter. That way all of the screw holes, etc are already taken care of. Then, I would just need to route the slots for the miter gauge, take the switch off of the original legs and install it on the new router table, and possibly use the existing fence... :eusa_thin

Have any of you ever built your own RT? If so, I could sure use a few pointers. :icon_thum This is typically the type of thing that you build, thinking that you thought of everything, then once it's done, you realize all of the things that you didn't think about. :BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:

 

[norm932]

Check out sommerfeld.com. I have one, and if I was going to build another router table it would be on the same design. What I spent on other tables and scrap I threw out would have paid for it.

 

[hpetty]

Trent,

I went whole hog and used Norm's plans. I hadn't had my shop setup for a couple of years and went that route primarily to de-rust my wood working skills. His plan makes a great, functional table. But I'm not sure if I would go that elaborate if I had it to do over again.

However, I do love the table and by using canned plans I can always blame it on Norm if there's a feature I don't like :gar-La;

hpetty

 

[merrill77]

I'm on my 3rd router table. The first was in my TS extension wing, because I didn't have enough space for anything else.

My second router table was built in a day (for ~$15 and scraps) and I used it for many years. I only upgraded because I picked up a norm-like table super-cheap on CL. I put a new top on it - made from a recycled desk / countertop. I made the fence from a melamine shelf from the BORG.

I don't think I would want to mount an "el-cheapo" router table into a countertop - sounds like it creates more problems than it solves. I found it easy to make a template/pattern to match the screw holes on my router and then transfer that to my table. It's the second I've made that way - both worked well. I did have to pick up some flat-head bolts that I could countersink into the top, but other than that, it was very easy.

Due to the thickness of the top, I did create a recess on the bottom-side of the top for the router to mount in. You can sorta see it in the second picture below.

Hope that helps!

 

[zapdafish]

I have this video if you want to borrow it. I based my RT off it.

 

[Bas]

Two things to think about: Building a router table is unlikely to be cheap or cheaper. Once you add the cost of all the materials and hardware, you're probably looking at at least a couple of hundred dollars. I know some of you will say "no way, I can build that from the stuff I have lying around" - that stuff came from somewhere! Second, whether you use a router plate or attach the router directly to the table, it doesn't make a lot of sense to use a cheap router you'll replace in the near future, because it means buying a new router plate or making a new top.

Sinking the existing router table into an enclosure is actually not a bad idea. Just build a cabinet with a hole in the top, and the router table rests on a shelf. Cover with a countertop and you have a nice smooth surface. You can easily shim things afterward, so the height doesn't have to be super precise. Also makes dust collection fairly simple, and you gain some storage. But if you then add in the cost of a new fence, add some T-track, make some legs...the price starts to creep up again.

 

[merrill77]

Second, whether you use a router plate or attach the router directly to the table, it doesn't make a lot of sense to use a cheap router you'll replace in the near future, because it means buying a new router plate or making a new top.

Can you elaborate on that, Bas, because I'm not following?

I had a phenolic router plate in my first router table - I've used it with all three of my routers. Get new router? Drill new holes! (or if you're lucky, re-use the old holes) It would be the same in my current RT, which uses a recycled countertop...just drill new holes. What am I missing?

 

[Splint Eastwood]

Trent,

Heres a pic of my shop-made RT top and (split)fence w dust collection . Not expensive, used mdf for fence and top, plus a 3/4 plywood sub-base.

The only real expense was the T-Track for Miter and Fence hold-downs.

I've posted a file on how to rout out a router plate, if you should decide to go that rout.

Check with Amazon Online as I found some sweet deals on Router plates for less than $40. phenolic.

I can advise/show how to put it all together, since we are neighbors.

Hope this helps!

Matt

 

[Bas]

Can you elaborate on that, Bas, because I'm not following?

I had a phenolic router plate in my first router table - I've used it with all three of my routers. Get new router? Drill new holes! (or if you're lucky, re-use the old holes) It would be the same in my current RT, which uses a recycled countertop...just drill new holes. What am I missing?

Well, you can get unlucky, where the new holes are only 1/8" from the old holes...that's when you really hate that everyone has a different pattern. Granted, you can rotate the router to give you more room, but I like the switch, speed control etc. to be front-and-center.

 

[merrill77]

Well, you can get unlucky, where the new holes are only 1/8" from the old holes...that's when you really hate that everyone has a different pattern. Granted, you can rotate the router to give you more room, but I like the switch, speed control etc. to be front-and-center.

Ahh, yeah - that could happen. I did have one screw-placement conflict, but was able to rotate the router only ~30deg to get around it. In my case, this still allowed convenient access to controls.

 

[Trent Mason]

Thank you all so much for your replies. :notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:

I'm still out of town for work, but hopefully, I'll get to work on this some this weekend and next week. :eusa_pray That's a very interesting discussion about the screw holes. I don't think that would be much of a problem for me as I would simply install the switch from the old RT and rotate the Router a little if I upgrade. I'll keep you all posted. By all means, if anyone has anything further to add or discuss about it, feel free to do so. Thank so much for all of the information. :icon_thum

 

[Glennbear]

Judging from the pictures he shows the top of Matt's table is similar to mine and I have been pleased with the design. Pictures and description of my build are here: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32436

My design is basically an upper box of MDF atop a wooden lower box containing drawers. :wsmile:

 

[JimD]

I've made multiple router tables and have two setups I still use. I put one in the extension wing of my table saw and it is still functional. The top of the extension wing is melamine particle board. All I did was reduce the thickness in the shape of a fixed base for one of my PC690 routers (to about 3/8 inch), cut a hole for the bit to come out, and put a couple t-nuts on the underside for the fence to be tightened against. The fence has slots and knobs with studs go through the fence and into the t-nuts. This was simple and cheap to do and is useful. The disadvantage is I can't do wide rips and route at the same time. I also tend to let scraps build up where I need to stand to use this feature of my table saw.

Instead I usually use my dedicated router table. It is built like Norm's but I did not get the plans. I also used ideas from an old American Woodworker article to build in height adjustment. Their idea is to use 1 inch machined metal rods (I got from McMaster Carr) and oilite bushings to create a carriage on the 3/4 plywood back of the router table so the router motor slides up and down when you turn a piece of 3/8 threaded rod (1 revolution = 1/16 inch). The top is hinged for easy bit changes. This may be more elaborate than you are ready for but the cost was not that bad. I bought a piece of 3/4 plywood and used scraps for the rest. The metal pieces for the lift were about $50, maybe $75. A lot less than a commercial lift. I may have spent $200 in all the pieces for this. I used the motor from an old R-500 Ryobi plunge router that had developed the nasty habit of sticking. It works well in the router table.

Jim

 

[gator]

I also went inexpensive (read cheap) for my RT. Whilst dumpster diving I found the wing of a metal desk with a formica top. I added two 2x4 legs and extended the two on the wing with 2x4's. I cut the hole for the plate over the knee area and then enclosed that area for a DC plenum. I mounted a switched outlet to the front and ran the router cord out to the outlet. I can switch the router on and off with the switch and also unplug the router to change bits. One further advantage is that it serves as a convenient outlet for other tools. For a fence I made my own and drilled some holes in the table top and put a dowel in one end of the fence on the underside. The dowel goes in a hole and the fence pivots to and from the bit. The multiple holes in the top is so I can place the fence at various distances from the bit for a wider range of adjustment. I clamp the other end of the fence to the top. I put a DC outlet behind the bit opening in the fence and tied it to the DC hose going to the table plenum. Added bonus was the three drawers in the desk wing gave me storage for bits etc.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/198/medium/100_0286.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/198/medium/100_0431.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/198/medium/100_0432.JPG

George

 

[merrill77]

I also went inexpensive (read cheap) for my RT. Whilst dumpster diving I found the wing of a metal desk with a formica top....

Excellent use of recycled materials!

I think my desk and yours were from the same era