Repairing fingerprint in lacquer

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nblong

New User
Bruce
Two questions actually:

1) I have a red oak circular hourglass base about 8" in diameter that I've tried Deft's brushing lacquer on. I'm pleased with the overall finish but I can see a fingerprint and a couple of small runs. Is there a way I can repair just those spots? This is the first time I've used lacquer so I'm a complete newbie. One side has three oak buttons for feet and the other has bores for the supports and the hourglass. The edge has an ogee profile so sanding the whole thing down and starting over isn't a great option.

2) I have a Beal buffing system so after I'm satisfied with the appearance of the base and the supports would using it be beneficial before final assembly?

Thanks for any help.
 

ncleet

New User
Lee
I use Deft a lot. Almost any surface defect in the finish can be resolved by using 0000 steel wool and buffing it out. Then, if needed, hit it with another coat. It's supposed to blend chemically with the previous layers. Good luck.
Lee
 

jmauldin

New User
Jim
You can also use 220 grit sandpaper to sand out the prints, then spray or brush another coat on. Yes, the second coat will dissolve into the previous coat. You can do this with any lacquer. However, you cannot use lacquer over varnish.
Jim in Mayberry
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
Like Jim said..just sand out the defects - maybe use a sharp chisel or Xacto knife to remove the runs- , then a light topcoat of more Deft.

I'd recommend topcoating using Deft in the rattle-can. Easy to get a light coat this way. All you need is a light coat because you have enough film thickness already..all you want to do is re-level/re-flow the existing lacquer film.

The solvent base for nitrocellulose lacquer (which is what Deft is) will melt your existing lacquer. So your new coat 'melts' into your old coat, making a monolithic film. Also called "lacquer burn-in".

Regarding buffing - Buffing is usually for achieving a high-gloss. Do you want a high gloss on red oak ?

-Mark
 
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