Jewelry Box WIP

BKHam

Bradley
User
I'm done with the case and lid for 2 jewelry boxes made of teak. in the third picture you can see the lid is curved. Size: 14.5 wide and 10" deep and 10" tall. think....tall toaster oven.

it is made of layers of 1/8 inch bending plywood, shaped on a bending form in a vacuum bag.

the front panel that the lid rests on is also plywood. i didn't want to have any crossgrain issues there.

the back panel is also veneered plywood. i'm going to flock the top chamber and the drawer bottoms will be leather.

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the most interesting part of the build aside from the veneering aspect are the tiny dovetailed dividers. all the case pieces are exactly the same thickness, jut under a half inch. i used a 3/8 dovetail bit. the dovetails in the sides are shouldered or housed. the vertical dividers are just traditional. i cut the dados first and then used a jig that centered over that dado to locate the dovetail.

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Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
REALLY nice work.
One question - I see you did not finish (all) of the inside of the lidded portion. Will that be flocked or ???
 

BKHam

Bradley
User
REALLY nice work.
One question - I see you did not finish (all) of the inside of the lidded portion. Will that be flocked or ???
i think yes, or just deferring that decision. maybe some dividers. i finished the outside with a poly but I'm not going to do that on the interior. even with the underside of the lid getting poly, it is retaining the smell. probalby will reseal that with shellac.
 

Matt Furjanic

Matt
Senior User
Dam good joinery...
Thumbs up on using veneered plywood. Lots of craftsmen turn their nose up at plywood, but it’s stable and doesn’t move, cup or warp like solid wood.
 

BKHam

Bradley
User
Dam good joinery...
Thumbs up on using veneered plywood. Lots of craftsmen turn their nose up at plywood, but it’s stable and doesn’t move, cup or warp like solid wood.
thanks. this was commercial veneer this time but i've done a fair bit of sawing my own veneer. My own design eye tends toward the seamless look and there are a lot of times that is only possible with veneer.
 

BKHam

Bradley
User
I have more veneer from the same flitch to do the drawer fronts, will match the back, lid, and front panel.
 

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
Bradley, that is some nice work. Based on the BF price of teak, you might want to build a safe to put those in.

Roy G
 

BKHam

Bradley
User
Bradley, that is some nice work. Based on the BF price of teak, you might want to build a safe to put those in.

Roy G
I got 2 large boards and a flitch of veneer from craigslist. it was slightly cheaper than market prices but i got a deal based on my taking everything at once.

i got a free teak table and chairs from CL last night.
 

BKHam

Bradley
User
Very nice. Just curious how you find your drawer construction... Looks great can't wait to see it finished.
the drawers are through dovetails with a bit of poplar glued on to create the half blind. then the teak veneer is glued on top of that. The reason i do this is that I use an 8 degree wedge at the bandsaw to cut the tails. you can't do this with half blinds. i dont really get much job from chopping out half blinds. for the pin board, i remove most of the waste with a coping saw or at the bandsaw. then i use a router to clean up. this gives me ultra flat socket bottoms. if you have fine woodworking unlimited, here is the method: '
 

BKHam

Bradley
User
Where did you find Teak plywood ?
I used 1/8 bending plywood and then veneered over it for the top. the other places in the case i used plywood, i used regular plywood and veneered over that as well. I had a flitch of 8 sheets. i used the straight grain parts for the top and drawer fronts. I used the cathedrals for the back panel and underside of the top.
 

Trey1984

Trey
User
the drawers are through dovetails with a bit of poplar glued on to create the half blind. then the teak veneer is glued on top of that. The reason i do this is that I use an 8 degree wedge at the bandsaw to cut the tails. you can't do this with half blinds. i dont really get much job from chopping out half blinds. for the pin board, i remove most of the waste with a coping saw or at the bandsaw. then i use a router to clean up. this gives me ultra flat socket bottoms. if you have fine woodworking unlimited, here is the method: '
I ordered year subscription for fine woodworking and didn't get unlimited. Need to go ahead and get unlimited. Is there a lot of plans and videos with the unlimited?
 

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