My insurance company wouldn't insure me if I had an open flame in my shop, so I sold my propane heater. I always turned it off before sanding because I was always afraid of combustion. Now, I dress warmly.
How Do You Heat Your Shop? Poll
- Thread starter BKind2Anmls
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My shop is in the basement and the furnace is in the attic, so right now I have nothing save the radiant heat that our hot water heater gives off, which ain't much. I'm hoping to install a plastic curtain to section the shop off from the garage and retain a bit more heat in the shop area, or so that I can run a heater if I need glue to dry or some such. We'll see what happens I guess.
How large of a shop are you trying to heat?
Combustion was my concern, too. I have a Kerosun heater and my shop is in the garage. I would really like to use the Kerosun as I'm tapped out amperage wise, so no electric heater. And it's starting to get pretty chilly.
Has anyone ever actually heard of a small workshop going up in flames because of combustion from saw dust or sanding? Would a fine particle dust collector help or exacerbate this situation? :eusa_thin
T
toolferone
I have a hanging 220 volt fan heater. I have a propane blaster and I have a 2.5 ton heat pump hanging waiting for time and money to hook up. When I get that hooked I should not need the others.
Not a small workshop, no. I have heard of it happening in an industrial setting. More of an explosion, really, rather than going up in flames. I don't think I would produce enough fine particulate to matter much, though.
I think I'm just talking myself into being ok with using the Kerosun.
Having BTDT on the body heat / motor radiant / light bulb heat :rotflm: the new shop has full blown HVAC 75,000 BTU propane / 2.5 ton A/C forced air. Nice and comfy in there and I'm not at all feeling guilty about it! :embaresse
My finishes look alot better now - not sure if that is temperature stability or operator stability (no more shaky hands!).
C.
My finishes look alot better now - not sure if that is temperature stability or operator stability (no more shaky hands!).
C.
I can’t say if it is possible or not for an open flame to ignite sawdust in the air, however I have been using all kinds of heaters over the last 30 years in my shops. All of them open flame type (mostly propane). One thing you need to remember is that none of the electric tools or electric heaters typically used in our shops are intrinsically (hope that’s spelled right) safe. So if there is a combustible amount of dust in the air It would seem to me that it could be set off by just about anything.
I put in a Mitsubishi Mr. Slim split system (http://www.goductless.com/Mitsubishi-Mr-Slim-mitsubishi-air-conditioner-p/11224.htlm) last year and it has worked out great. In the summer I get AC and a separate dehumidification setting and in winter the unit heats. It is very efficient and to boot I got a $1500 tax credit that put my total cost at about $2K.
Dan C.
Dan C.
I find that North Carolina summers actually heat my shop a little more than I like.
Oh, you mean now?! I have a couple little electric space heaters and I wait for those 45-degree days.
Oh, you mean now?! I have a couple little electric space heaters and I wait for those 45-degree days.
Scott,
My shop is 24' x 48' with high ceilings.
My shop is 24' x 48' with high ceilings.
Personal electric infrared is my primary. Looks sort of like a round fan except what would be the back grate is a solid reflector. It can oscillate and be used as more than a personal heater, but the way these work is that when it points at you, you are pretty much instantly warm and when it isn't pointed at you then you are cold. So I tend to use it pointed at me at a particular task.
I also use an oil filled radiator if someone else will be out there with me and/or I will be moving around a lot. I also have a couple of electric space heaters as backups.
Circling back to the infrared - I share the garage with my wife's car. If she goes grocery shopping (4 kids; she goes a lot), I will get the big exchange of air when she leaves and it will be compounded when she gets back by raising the rear hatch to unload (can't close door). It is the perfect heater for this situation.
I also use an oil filled radiator if someone else will be out there with me and/or I will be moving around a lot. I also have a couple of electric space heaters as backups.
Circling back to the infrared - I share the garage with my wife's car. If she goes grocery shopping (4 kids; she goes a lot), I will get the big exchange of air when she leaves and it will be compounded when she gets back by raising the rear hatch to unload (can't close door). It is the perfect heater for this situation.
You should be able to add a "T" to the existing line and then feed a ventless heater. As gas is not something to play with find someone experienced like a plumber or a HVAC guy.
I added a ventless stove to an existing gas line in my home in NJ but as Scott said if you are not comfortable with gas lines hire a professional. If my memory serves me correctly back to my days as a fire inspector adding a second appliance to an existing flue is a definite no-no. :no: The problem is flues are designed to create a draft to remove combustion gases and adding a second appliance upsets the draft. Since CO gas is both deadly and odorless it is not something one wants to mess with. :wsmile:
Are you using the oil-filled heaters that look like radiators that are carried at department stores? I was wondering if a couple of them would work for me in my 24 x 48 shop. The problem is, I have really high ceilings so the heat would end up out my reach. I hate to put in a ceiling and insulation because I like the openness and the height. Plus, my rafters are spaced too far apart to turn the area into storage. However, it may be the smartest thing to do. I guess this would also help with the heat in the summer?
Just some thoughts based upon my experiences:
1) When I was finishing my shop interior during the cold months I tried heating it temporarily with portable heaters and they were woefully inadequate. The shop is 24x24 and before I installed the ceiling it was 12 feet at the peak.
2) I think ceiling insulation is a wise investment and yes, it will help keep radiant heat from the roof underside from your work space.
3) There are insulation solutions you could use that go on the underside of your roof deck and still maintain the openess and height you like. If you go this route, ceiling fans are cheap enough and if set to turn in the proper direction will redirect heated air downward during the heating season and can be reversed during the cooling season.
4) I realize these are a lot of things to consider but one must balance HVAC decisions with your pocketbook and personal tastes. The bottom line is, the smaller the insulated space is the less expensive it is to heat and cool. :wsmile:
Everyone,
In case you haven't considered it, COVE heating units (infrared) were an experiment in my year-old shop and they have more than paid for themselves. Cheaper than most other electric options. A HVAC friend recommended them. I'd never really heard about it. It should be a consideration if you don't like high electric bills and saw dust EXPLOSIONS with open flame or red-hot elements! :kamahlitu
Gabe
In case you haven't considered it, COVE heating units (infrared) were an experiment in my year-old shop and they have more than paid for themselves. Cheaper than most other electric options. A HVAC friend recommended them. I'd never really heard about it. It should be a consideration if you don't like high electric bills and saw dust EXPLOSIONS with open flame or red-hot elements! :kamahlitu
Gabe
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