How do you get smooth results from a jointer ?
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Push blocks are the way to go. Woodworker's Supply carries a set for less than $20. I don't know what kind of rubber they use on soles, but it really grips. They also have one with a "shoe" that drops down to feed back edge of board. Don't use your fingers, as you will quickly have three fingers that are all the same length. And a whole lot of bloody mess to clean up, after you get back from emergency room. Jointers are only the first step in "cleaning up stock." Scraping or sanding are still required. I understand from other posts that Byrd Heads leave tiny ridges that have to be removed by either sanding, or scraping. I know that my Delta lunch box planer leaves a better surface than my 15" Delta planer. Both need to be sanded/ scraped.
oh, yeah, forgot the push blocks. absolutely have to use them.
I don't usually experience 'ridges' with my byrd head until the teeth are a bit old, and then it seems like the wood is almost polished between the slight highpoints. changing feed speed may reduce this effect.
I don't usually experience 'ridges' with my byrd head until the teeth are a bit old, and then it seems like the wood is almost polished between the slight highpoints. changing feed speed may reduce this effect.
I have not used the Byrd head or been in the presence of one in operation. I have the conventional straight knives in my powermatic. The first time I made a pass on it was with a 6" wide board and it actually had suction to it when I went to pick it up off the out feed table. I could hardly believe it-------and smooth as silk.
Sanding is still needed regardless of how smooth it feels----those cutter marks will always be there after jointing or planing.
Jerry
J
jeff...
Your too shaky, try [strike]snorting[/strike] some maple it'll calm your nerves :lol:
Make sure that your outfeed table is the same height as your cutters. Aside from that I concentrate on keeping the feed rate steady, and keeping the stock on the table, but most of my effort goes into making sure that I keep the stock flat against the fence.
Practice my son! (and the aforementioned push blocks)
One thing people don't realize about a helical head is that there is always a cutter engaged with the wood where straight knives hit and release. Moving wood across a helical head can actually require a little more push force.
In addition to proper technique and applying pressure in the right places, how fast you move the wood across the jointer has a huge impact on the quality of the finish as does grain orientation.
The jointer is one of the more technique-sensitive machines in the shop so keep practicing, pay attention to what you are doing and take light cuts!
One thing people don't realize about a helical head is that there is always a cutter engaged with the wood where straight knives hit and release. Moving wood across a helical head can actually require a little more push force.
In addition to proper technique and applying pressure in the right places, how fast you move the wood across the jointer has a huge impact on the quality of the finish as does grain orientation.
The jointer is one of the more technique-sensitive machines in the shop so keep practicing, pay attention to what you are doing and take light cuts!
I have never used the indexed cutters, but I have the same issue using the jointer. I see jointing edges as a way to get the board ready for the table saw and that is where a good rip blade comes into play.
Scrapers, planes and sanding will also remove the bumps.
To me, a wide jointer is needed to first face plane the board and then to edge it. I do not expect finished results from it.
Thanks,
David
Scrapers, planes and sanding will also remove the bumps.
To me, a wide jointer is needed to first face plane the board and then to edge it. I do not expect finished results from it.
Thanks,
David
Feel the grain direction with your finger tips. If most of it is smooth one way, then feed the work that way; not against the grain. Same for planners.
And keep the tables well waxed.
And keep the tables well waxed.
I must say I have never used a Byrd head, but the finish from my 6" Rigid is superb. Push blocks help stop any change in feed rate and keep an even pressure by being able to easily "leap frog" the blocks, watch the grain orientation and keep the knives sharp. Oh, and practise! let the machine do the work and don't try to hard, you'll get better results.
It could be of course that all the blades are not the same height and you are only cutting with one of them!
It could be of course that all the blades are not the same height and you are only cutting with one of them!
I want to reiterate something that Bruce said. Practice safety. Just because the safety shield is in place does not mean that you can't get hurt. I just lost a pinky finger nail to my jointer. Guard was in place and I thought I was fine but I tend to hold my left hand (pinky finger) a particular way due to inexperience. Won't happen again or my wife will sell the jointer.
tv
tv
I won't bother repeating all the good advice about technique, but one thing I will repeat is to use push blocks every time it's possible, especially on face planing, make sure your guard is in place and closing quickly and fully, and be very aware of where your hands and fingers are at all times. I've seen more accidents with jointers than any other tool in the shop and they make fingertips just as flat as they do lumber.
Jon, the Byrd head should leave a nice, smooth surface. Yes, it will still need to be sanded, but it should still look pretty nice. I have a spiral cutterhead on my 16" jointer, and have no problems with the smoothness of the cut.
Lots of good points already stated - let us know how it turns out.
Scott
Lots of good points already stated - let us know how it turns out.
Scott
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