Guitar #2...Cedar

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Chris C

Chris
Senior User
So I salvaged some cedar planks....


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After lots of planing...

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I think I discovered my problem bending the pieces I planed last night....not thin enough.

I went down a shade under .100 and bent them dry with a wet rag to keep the surface damp and prevent burning.

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Worked like a charm....they are just sitting in the form. It's not holding the sides in shape....
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Chris please keep posting - maybe do a step by step work in progress. I'm toying around with the idea of a bent side archtop autistic bass. Your progress is really encouraging me... please continue.

Thanks
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
Chris please keep posting - maybe do a step by step work in progress. I'm toying around with the idea of a bent side archtop autistic bass. Your progress is really encouraging me... please continue.

Thanks

Sure thing. Do you want all the gory details or just the high points?
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
I started on the neck this morning. You have to build the neck first. My idea is to build this out of scrap material....or left over cuts, etc.

I’m doing a stacked neck. Actually, a laminated stacked neck. Yep, ramping up the level of difficulty right from the start. Since I’ve never done this before, we’re all going to learn this part together.

I’ve decided on a walnut, white oak, cherry, white oak, walnut lamination. Why? Why not?

Here is the rough WO strip.

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Two strips s4s.

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Two strips planed to the same thickness.

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WO sandwiching the cherry strip

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I spent some time chasing what I thought was a plane track for a while...aggravating. Eventually I thought to run the sole of the plane and found this...the spot was there when I bought the plane but I nicked a screw head I was using as a planing stop last night. A mill bastard file quickly took care of the problem but it’s a good lesson to remember. Always break the edges around the sole to remove any sharp edges and burrs.

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The parts for the stacked heel lamination. Yes, it would have been easier and quicker to make a longer neck lamination and cut off the parts for the heel, but I didn’t have any scrap walnut sections long enough (actually I did but didn’t like the grain orientation/runout of the pieces).

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Same procedure as the neck...


Take the time to check your grain and orient the pieces accordingly. It will save you more time and aggravation if you do it now and avoid having to deal with tearout. Also check you orientation BEFORE you glue. I know we all know this but I included this for a reason....3 guesses why.

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All glued up...I glued the walnut and oak strips together first, then glued the cherry in between those laminations.

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It's gonna look awesome...
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Is your wood Atlantic white cedar (aka Juniper) like this that you found in the barn? It's a good species for eastern NC boat builders too.

How do you secure and hand plane pieces to +/- 1/8" thick?

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Chris C

Chris
Senior User
Is your wood Atlantic white cedar (aka Juniper) like this that you found in the barn? It's a good species for eastern NC boat builders too.

How do you secure and hand plane pieces to +/- 1/8" thick?

I'd say yes on the Atlantic white cedar....but not 100% sure.


thin.jpg

I plane down as far as possible using a planing stop...then switch to a clamp. It can be a PITA but usually works out OK. I only have my Moxon vise attached to my bench (with clamps) so I can usually orient the piece on the bench so that I can get to it.

It actually works better this way in that really thin stock wants to bow up if the iron catches ...I almost snapped one side in half. Not a problem if planing away from the clamp.
 

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Chris C

Chris
Senior User
These came out good...with one small problem. The neck blank is 19/32....I was shooting for a minimum of 11/16. The walnut was a shade under 3/4 to start and my alignment was not the best when gluing. Not the end of the world.....I'll glue a thin piece on the top if necessary to make up the difference.

**Edit** I think it'll be just fine as is. I'll just use a low profile 2-way truss rod instead.

laminations.jpg
 
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kevin waldron

New User
Kevin
Enclosing a neck drawing...... maybe you can use it........

Also enclosing a compiled listed of what we at one time actually made kits for........ (no longer do this only offering templates now..... so don't ask about a kit.... just to show the varied sizes and shapes that have come out through the years and then only probably 35-40% of what has appeared on the market in the last 100 years.....we never got deeply involved with electrical instruments only acoustic as a whole. )

Enclosing a pyramid style bridge, enclosing a bending machine that uses silicon blankets and the compiled listed. Also including a instrument we built several years back for a show... lest you think we have never done any of this......

Blessings,



Dread Neck Info.jpgPyramid Bridge.jpgBending Jig.jpgDrawn Instruments.jpgIMG_2002.jpgIMG_2007.jpg
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
I cut the scarf joint this morning. I put a new fine finish blade in the TS and nervously made the cut.

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I made a jig to cut the 15 degree angle on the blank. It came out perfectly with just a tiny bit of touchup needed.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
15 degrees is huge... way more than i think i would go... i think you only need enough to ensure the strings sit firmly in the nut slots don't you?
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
15 degrees is huge... way more than i think i would go... i think you only need enough to ensure the strings sit firmly in the nut slots don't you?

That's pretty standard from what I've seen...but it is somewhat variable. Cumpiano says 15 degrees in his book.
 
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