G0623X assembly Part 1 & Part 2 & finished? (for now)

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MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
I started putting this beast together this morning, right after a trip to Lowes to pick up 10 ft of 10/3 power cord.​

One of the first things I noticed about this saw was the "4 inch dust port". Not so much. The connection on the back of the saw is for a 4" pipe, but that is just bolted onto the cabinet centered over a 3" hole. The flex pipe on the inside that goes to the blade shroud is 3". I can see no way to make that any bigger. Hopefully, it will get the job done.

Grizzly_G0623X_012.JPG

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So on to bigger and better things.

First up was installing the sliding table. That was pretty easy, but there is not a lot of room under there to add the one nut on each end that holds the sliding table assembly to the base.





The nut in the center is threaded onto a t-bolt that fits into a t-slot in the slding table base. I had to shim the sliding table up about 3/8" to get the washer, lock washer and nut under the end of the t-bolt.

In the first picture you can see a small allen head bolt screwed into the underside of the sliding table base. That is a stop that positions the sliding table base on the saw cabinet. Absolutely no mention of that in the manual. As a matter of fact, there is nothing in the manual that says exactly where the sliding table base should be postitioned. The manual just says to mount it and tighten the the nuts. Oh well, I'm glad that Grizzly put the small bolt in there and that I found it.

Next were the extension tables. There is a small table that bolts to the back side of the main cast iron table and a second, larger table that bolts to the right side of the main. The manual says to bolt the extention table(s) to the main table and then add the set screws that are used to level the extension(s). This seemed backwards to me, so I screwed the set screws in first, with the table(s) upside down on the bench, then mounted the tables to the main.



And here it is with the slider and both extension tables mounted.






Next was installation of the rip fence. The rip fence system consists of a fence scale, fence rail and fence base. The fence scale is bolted to the main and right side extension tables then the fence rail is bolted right beside the fence scale. All of this went very nice and easy.




Then the real fun began. I could not get the fence base to slide smoothly on the rail. The rail would bind to the point where I could barely move it. There is a note in the manual for this very occurrance.
"The fence should slide smoothly; if it doesn't, remove the fence base and adjust the spring pressure plate mounting position on the fence base (See figure 23)."
That is the entire explanation. There is nothing in the manual that explains how to do this. After some time messing with it, I found out that there is a steel rod that holds a cam that the fence handle screws into. I removed that rod and that provided access to the 2 screws that that held the spring pressure plate. I adlusted the spring pressure plate, re-assembled the fence base and tried it again. It was still binding. I tried this several times with no success. Finally I just removed the spring pressure plate alltogether. Now I could move the fence and still lock it down. But the fence still does not slide smoothly or evenly. It is binding a little here and there and it kind of chatters as it slides. At this point I am not sure if there is a problem with the fence design, or if I simply got a bad fence set up. I will have to contact Grizzly to find out how to correct this problem.

I did go ahead and mount the rip fence for now.




Next was the cross cut table and fence. This also went prettly smoothly, although, there are two sets of four holes on the bottom side of the crosscut table, and the manual says to mount the support leg to the cross cut table without mentioning which set of four holes to use (other than a not too clear picture). I'm not really sure what the second set of holes could be used for. The set I did use is closer to the center of the table, The other set is close to the edge (but not down by the river, YES reference, sorry)

So here is the cross cut table and fence installed with the two flip stops mounted to the cross cut fence.




And that is about as far as I got today. Should be able to finish up and power up tomorrow, if I don't run into any more significant problems.
 

drw

Donn
Corporate Member
Re: G0623X assembly Part 1

Mark,
Wow, that slider is going to be a very nice addition to your shop! Regarding the assembly directions, I am amazed at how poorly some these assembly instructions are written. I get the impression that they are often written by people who have assembled dozens of the machines in question and thus assume knowledge that us "first-timers" just do not have. Poorly written instructions notwithstanding, you appear to be making excellent progress, thank you for sharing.

Donn
 

CDPeters

Master of None
Chris
Re: G0623X assembly Part 1

Lookin' good Mark... I know how much you're itchin' to mash that Start button!
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Re: G0623X assembly Part 1

There are a lot of errors in the manual for this machine. I have been trying to keep track of these errors as I find them to forward to Grizzly CS.

It certainly does look like the folks that write these might be making a lot of assumptions. It also looks like there is a lot of 'cut & paste' from manuals for other machines.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Re: G0623X assembly Part 1

There are a lot of errors in the manual for this machine. I have been trying to keep track of these errors as I find them to forward to Grizzly CS.

It certainly does look like the folks that write these might be making a lot of assumptions. It also looks like there is a lot of 'cut & paste' from manuals for other machines.
Great writeup so far Mark, and thanks for keeping track of the manual issues. I've often wondered why companies don't set up a Wiki with the base manual that people can then edit and enhance over time. It doesn't cost anything, and sure makes it easy to keep things current.
 

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
Re: G0623X assembly Part 1 & Part 2

I started putting this beast together this morning, right after a trip to Lowes to pick up 10 ft of 10/3 power cord.​

One of the first things I noticed about this saw was the "4 inch dust port". Not so much. The connection on the back of the saw is for a 4" pipe, but that is just bolted onto the cabinet centered over a 3" hole. The flex pipe on the inside that goes to the blade shroud is 3". I can see no way to make that any bigger. Hopefully, it will get the job done.
<snip>
You should be ok. A TS makes mostly sawdust and few chips (unlike a planer or jointer). My Robland also has a small diameter DC hose on the blade shroud and it does fine.

The biggest problem is thin offcuts falling into the shroud/hose, which then starts to dam the sawdust....

-Mark
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Re: G0623X assembly Part 1 & Part 2

This is part 2. Sunday's progress.

I started by mounting the front and back leg supports and the main switch assembly. The legs and the switch mounting bracket are attached to the underside of the sliding table base in a T-slot. The saw was very tippy with the sliding table fully extended. It is rock solid with the legs installed.





This is the short miter gauge with hold down and stop. There is also a moveable push handle included. The stop slides up and down on the round bar which is the miter handle used to tighten the gauge in place in the T-slot. To move the miter gauge along the T-slot you have to loosen the hold down clamp on the miter handle, then loosen the miter handle. The miter gauge can then be slid along the T-slot.

Loosening the miter handle also releases the miter gauge body, so every time you want to move the miter gauge you have to re-check the miter gauge angle setting. This is not a problem if you are using one of the hard stops, but if you are using an odd angle, you then have to manually check and re-set the angle. It sure would have been nice if there was a second knob to hold the miter gauge angle as the gauge moves along the T-slot.





Installing the blade was nice and easy. Move the sliding table out of the way, swing open the blade cover, insert the arbor lock tool (didn't get a picture of that), remove the left hand threaded bolt and washer, install the blade and reverse the procedure. Lots of room to work in there. Just don't drop the nut or washer or it will go right into the dust collection hose.

The riving knife was also very easy to install and adjust. Is held in place with a nylock nut and there is a post above and below the mounting screw to keep it aligned vertically.





Here is the long cross cut fence. It is ~54" retracted and extends out to ~78". Very nice and smooth. To zero it to the blade the fence is move up to almost touching the blade. After doing this the scale on the fence was right on. There is a UHMW tip on the fence, so no danger of blade damage. The fence pivots on a steel pin and locks down with the cross cut fence lock knob from under the cross cut table. There are scales on the table to set the angles when the fence is set in the forward or rear positions. I checked the fence at 90 and 45 degrees in both positions and found the scales to be accurate. There are positive stops at 90 degrees for both positions. Both are adjustable but did not need any adjustment.







On to the blade guard which mounts to the riving knife with one allen head bolt. The mounting hole has a metal insert that the bolt slides through and a threaded insert that the bolt screws into. The bolt goes in from the right side, through the metal insert, then through the hole in the riving knife and then into the threaded insert. Just snug it up and your good to go.

When I first installed the guard it had very little up and down movement due to a drift pin that was mounted through a hole behind the guards mounting hole.



The pin hits against the flat on the riving knife and stops the guard from lifting.




This didn't seem right to me, so I removed the drift pin.



Now the guard can raise much higher. There is a cutout in the back of the guard that now rests on the flat in the riving knife when the guard is fully raised.





It seems that the riving knife needs to be raised so that the mounting hole for the guard is above the top of the blade, otherwise the blade cannot be lowered past the top of the table. Not sure how this is supposed to work. I will contact Grizzly TS to see what they say.

There is a hose support provided to keep the guards dust collection hose raised above the table. A nice feature.





At this point I had to make some positioning decisions and my SIL came over to help me move things around. I also have to re-configure some dust collection pipes to accomodate the moves.

That's it for now.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Re: G0623X assembly Part 1 & Part 2

You should be ok. A TS makes mostly sawdust and few chips (unlike a planer or jointer). My Robland also has a small diameter DC hose on the blade shroud and it does fine.

The biggest problem is thin offcuts falling into the shroud/hose, which then starts to dam the sawdust....

-Mark

That's good to know.

I hooked up a 6" pipe to the 4/3" port and turned on the DC and watched the big pipe shrink right up. Lots of suction from the Oneida. :gar-Bi
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
First a couple of updates. Grizzly TS is checking into the issues I had with the rip fence and the overhead blade guard.

The rip fence base may have a badly machined (or drilled) sleeve. It has an off center hole that locks the fence base against the rail when the handle is rotated down.

Based on pictures in the owner's manual and the parts lists, it seems that I received the wrong riving knife for this saw. The overhead blade guard mounts to the riving knife, so that would explain the lack of swing in the guard. I sent pictures of my riving knife and they are checking that out.

Ok, progress.

My SIL helped me move things around in the shop and I then re-configured my DC for the new equipment positions. Basically, we turned the G0623X 90 degrees and I added another five foot section of 6" pipe to the drop for the TS and router table. The router table and my work bench have switched positions. I am absolutely sure that this is were everything will be forever, or at least until I get the rubber floor mats configured. :nah:

So we have a 4" gate reduced to 2-1/2" for the overhead blade guard. Then a 6" gate reduced to 4" for the TS port, which is then reduce inside the saw cabinet to 3" pipe going to the lower blade shroud. Then one more 6" gate reduced to 4" for the router table.





This saw needs a lot of clear space around it. Here are a couple of shots showing the sliding table fully extended front and back. The cross cut fence in these shots is fully retracted to ~54". When fully extended it goes out to ~78".




I made a few test cuts in some 3/4" plywood. The overhead guard dust collection was very good. Virtually no saw dust on the tables. The lower blade shroud dust collection was not nearly as good. You can see from the next picture that there is a lot of saw dust on the braces inside the cabinet and on the floor under the TS. At this point I don't have any ideas on how to improve the dust collection around the lower part of the blade


At this point I decided to make my final checks and adjustments.

First I checked the sliding table for parallel to the blade. Nice, +- .001.

Re-checked the cross cut fence settings at 90 and 45 degrees in forward and back fence positions. All good.

The miter gauge. Worthless. I need to find a way to mount my Incra 1000SE to a t-nut bar that will fit in the sliding table t-slots.

Now the fun part. I checked the rip fence for parallel to the blade. Off by about .015, back side closer to the blade. That's not good.

Now the rip fence base slides on to the rip fence rail. There are no adjustments on the rip fence base to change the angle of the rip fence. The only way to adjust the rip fence angle to bring it parallel to the blade is by adjusting the rip fence rail that the base mounts to. The mounting instructions for the rip fence rail says to mount the rail with an even gap of a minimum of 1/8" along the length of the rip fence scale. That is the extent of the instructions in the manual on how to properly align the rip fence to the blade.

The rip fence rail is mounted to the cast iron top and the extension table using three M12x1.75x90 studs. These are large coarsely threaded studs. Two of the studs go through the cast iron top and one through the extension table. The studs are threaded into a t-nut that slides into a t-slot in the rail with a bolt on the outside of the rail to hold it in position. There are three M12X1.75 hex nuts threaded onto the stud, one on the inside of the tables and two on the outside. To adjust the rip fence angle to bring it parallel to the blade you have to adjust the rip fence rail closer or further from the tables using these three coarse thread M12X1.75 mounting studs and the three M12x1.75 nuts holding the rail to the tables.








It took me almost 2-1/2 hours to adjust out that .015".

After working with a Delta Unifence this adjustment method is... a little archaic.

Now, there may be a better, simpler way to do this adjustment, but, if there is, including it in the owner's manual might be a good idea.

There are two nylon set screws in the rip fence base, but I could not find a way to make the fence adjustments using these. All they did was remove some wiggle from the fence base. On the Delta Unifence there are two large nylon set screws in the same position as the two on the Grizzly. The two on the Unifence are there to make the angle adjustment to the rip fence. Takes about 1-2 minutes.

I guess I'm done for now. Waiting to hear from Grizzly on my open activites. In the meantime, I am back up and running with a table saw in the shop.

I will probably right up a review after I have had a chance to live with the saw for bit.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Good stuff so far Mark. It's a pity not everything is perfect out of the box, but I'm sure Grizzly will make it right. I wonder if the big misalignment of 0.15" is related to the other fence issues.
Regarding clearance, how much space do you need for the saw front/ back in order to push the sliding table all the way to the end?
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Good stuff so far Mark. It's a pity not everything is perfect out of the box, but I'm sure Grizzly will make it right. I wonder if the big misalignment of 0.15" is related to the other fence issues.
Regarding clearance, how much space do you need for the saw front/ back in order to push the sliding table all the way to the end?

I received a couple more tips on mounting the rip fence rail that I am going to try today to see if they make a difference. I checked the cam sleeve in the rip fence base and when it is in the fully released position (all the way up) the outside surface of the sleeve is even with the fence base surface that rides on the outside surface of the rail. The spring pressure plate is supposed to go between the sleeve and the rail. There is just not enough space between the sleeve and the rail for that pressure plate to fit.

Lot's of clearance required. With the sliding table fully forward it is 71" from the end of the table to the blade. Total clearance to move the sliding table through it's entire travel is 150". Side to side clearance is 123" with the cross cut table and the fence fully extended.

The cross cut fence can be taken off by removing one knob. It maintains alignment when taken off and re-installed. The cross cut table can also be removed by loosening only one locking lever. With the the cross cut table and fence removed you only need ~12" of clearance to the left of the blade. It only takes a couple of minutes to put the table and fence back on.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Lot's of clearance required. With the sliding table fully forward it is 71" from the end of the table to the blade. Total clearance to move the sliding table through it's entire travel is 150". Side to side clearance is 123" with the cross cut table and the fence fully extended.
That's definitely a big footprint. I measured my shop this morning. I think I can just fit it in without it becoming a major obstruction. Of course, the full width is only needed when you're crosscutting really large sheets/ panels, and when it comes to ripping boards...if you're ripping 8ft, you need 8ft in front, 2ft. for the saw and 7ft behind, whether it's a regular saw or a slider.

The miter gauge. Worthless. I need to find a way to mount my Incra 1000SE to a t-nut bar that will fit in the sliding table t-slots.
What don't you like about the miter gauge? It looks like the fence on the miter gauge is pretty decent, is it the accuracy of the angle?

You make a good point about being able to mount standard accessories. After market miter gauges, tenoning jigs etc. are all probably going to be difficult if not impossible to use.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
The miter gauge itself is fine. The way it mounts to the sliding table is not well thought out.

There is a locking shaft that locks the miter angle and also locks the t-nut in position in the t-slot. The hold down clamp is also mounted to that same shaft. In order to move the miter gauge along the t-slot you first have to loosen the hold down clamp, then loosen the locking shaft. When you loosen the locking shaft from the T-nut, you are also releasing the miter gauge body and therefore lose the angle setting. IMHO there should be a second locking knob that holds the miter gauge angle when you loosen the t-nut to allow the miter gauge to slide along the t-slot.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
To clear up my last post I took a couple of pictures.

Here is the miter gauge set up for a 60 degree cut.

Now if I want to move the miter gauge to a different location on the sliding table I first have to release the hold down clamp.



Then release the locking handle/clamp/shaft ...


This also releases the miter gauge body, allowing the gauge body to move, losing the set angle.


That one shaft locks the gauge body to an angle, locks the t-nut to a position in the t-slot and is the mounting shaft for the hold down clamp.
 

Mike Wilkins

Mike
Corporate Member
Nice machine. I know exactly what you mean about dropping the arbor nut into the dust collection hose. Drove myself crazy one day after dropping this nut down there, only to find it resting in the bend where it goes out of the cabinet.
As for the miter fence; my Laguna machine has the same set-up and must be re-aligned each time I move it to a position other than 90 deg. I am currently getting set up to replace it with the Incra gauge and fence which should be a great improvement.
I don't use the scoring blade much other than the ocassional plywood cuts. Too much trouble to go through since most of my cutting is with solid wood.
Good luck and enjoy that new toy!:thumbs_up
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
I haven't tried the scoring blade yet so I don't know how much work the set up will be.

I have been discussing this saw with another owner. What he has done is set the scoring blade up at the proper height and then just takes it off when he doesn't need it. When he needs to use the scoring blade he just re-installs it on the arbor. No need to re-adjust, as long as it is used with the same kerf blade.
 
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