Ever use Plastic Resin glue? Thoughts?

[WoodWrangler]

If you've watched the television show Wood Works with David Marks then you've probably seen him using plastic resin glue. I've seen it enough on the show to get curious ... so I did some research.

He uses it because it sets slowly, allowing for more assembly time. However after some research on the net, it seems it's very waterproof (often being used by boat builders) and extremely strong.

Have you ever used it? If so, what are your thoughts?

I just ordered 4.5lbs (dry) of Weldwood Plastic Resin glue. Says just mix with water & use ... I'll let ya know how it turns out!

 

[dtomasch]

Is this the same as PPR glue? If so I have used it on laminated curved handrails and used it to prevent "spring" when it is out of the form. It did have a long open time but spreads like molasses on a cold day.

 

[Howard Acheson]

The Plastic Resin glue used by Marks is called DAP/Weldwood Plastic Resin. It a class of adhesives generically known as urea formaldehyde. There are a number of brands but the Plastic Resin is the most readily available to non-professionals. It's a powder that must be mixed with water.

www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?product_id=42

UR adhesives are about as water resistant as PVA Type II adhesives like Titebond II. The do have a longer open time but they need to be used at a temperature no lower than 70 degrees and the require tight clamping for 12 hours.

The advantage--beside the longer open time--is that UA adhesives do not exhibit any of the creep associated with PVA adhesives. It's the only glue our shop would use for panel glue ups. PVA adhesives will frequently develop glueline ridges which cause us a number of call backs.

 

[DaveO]

The advantage--beside the longer open time--is that UA adhesives do not exhibit any of the creep associated with PVA adhesives. It's the only glue our shop would use for panel glue ups. PVA adhesives will frequently develop glueline ridges which cause us a number of call backs.

Howard, do you know what cause the glueline ridges. I have had some form in a table I made. But they didn't form until about a year after I did the panel glue-up. I let the glue fully cure before sanding the panel (one of the only times:eusa_doh: ) and had very tight joints. The wood was Honduran Mahogany and TB I glue. :icon_scra :icon_scra :icon_scra
Thanks for your insights,
Dave

 

[McRabbet]

David mentioned PPR -- -- which is a powdered Urea Resin adhesive available from Woodworker's Supply for about $26 for a 5# tub. John Richards (Woodguy1975) uses this glue for his laminations in the Maloof-style Rocker Classes he teaches -- as Howard said, long pot life and no creep.

 

[Gofor]

First experience I had with DAP Weldwood resin was about 1960, when My Dad got into making our own bows (as in bow & arrow). He used it to laminate some lemonwood, cherry, and fiberglas for the Bow, and also used it on several others to attach the hand piece (stock) to the bow. The came in at a 60 lb pull. My nephew still has them and they still work. The Weldwood is still holding.

Go

 

[BumoutBob]

I have used it too but not very often. My Dad used it a lot to repair the venier on clocks. The glue line overflow is hard/brittle and can be bad for a sharp edge. Scrapper clean up may be better. Holds very well. Shelf life affected by humidity.

 

[gator]

When you mix it, get ALL of the little clumps out. It needs to be very smooth.

George

 

[Howard Acheson]

>> do you know what cause the glueline ridges. I have had some form in a table I made. But they didn't form until about a year after I did the panel glue-up.

Very typical and common. While the manufacturers will claim it doesn't exist, the shop I was involved with spent many hours with our adhesive supplier looking at the problem. It seemed to be related to the humidity at the time of construction. Our shop was just outside NYC and the winter RH was about 30% and the summer RH was 75-80%. When glued at the lower winter RH the wood was at it's most contracted state. It would expand during the next summer pulling the glue in the glueline up with it. When the wood shrunk the next winter, the glueline would stay up and be easily felt. This lead to a number of callbacks on some high priced surfaces. Heavy clamping would reduce the problem but not eliminate it.

Our solution was to go to urea formaldehyde adhesive. Never had the problem again but we had to watch the temperature.

UF adhesive is probably the best non-marine adhesive to use for making tensioned laminations like rocking chair rockers or other cold laminations. Because it has very stong shear strength (doesn't slip past the other surface like PVA does) the bend stays in place and the lamination holds together. We used UF adhesives for making marine things like tiller handles, etc.

 

[jlwest]

I have used the Weldwood resin glue since the early 70's and have found it works quite well for most jobs. It does have a shelf life once the can is opened. I also use Titebond III .

 

[Big Mike]

I used to use PRG a little when I was doing a lot of table tops for the strength and water resistance. Only problem I had was if I failed to get the squeeze out off as it can stain the adjacent wood. It also can stain your hands so wear gloves.

 

[DaveO]

>> do you know what cause the glueline ridges. I have had some form in a table I made. But they didn't form until about a year after I did the panel glue-up.

Very typical and common. While the manufacturers will claim it doesn't exist, the shop I was involved with spent many hours with our adhesive supplier looking at the problem. It seemed to be related to the humidity at the time of construction. Our shop was just outside NYC and the winter RH was about 30% and the summer RH was 75-80%. When glued at the lower winter RH the wood was at it's most contracted state. It would expand during the next summer pulling the glue in the glueline up with it. When the wood shrunk the next winter, the glueline would stay up and be easily felt. This lead to a number of callbacks on some high priced surfaces. Heavy clamping would reduce the problem but not eliminate it.

Our solution was to go to urea formaldehyde adhesive. Never had the problem again but we had to watch the temperature.

UF adhesive is probably the best non-marine adhesive to use for making tensioned laminations like rocking chair rockers or other cold laminations. Because it has very stong shear strength (doesn't slip past the other surface like PVA does) the bend stays in place and the lamination holds together. We used UF adhesives for making marine things like tiller handles, etc.

Thanks Howard, that makes perfect sense and would explain why it took a year to develop. I knew you, if anyone, would have an excellent answer to my question.
Dave

 

[WoodWrangler]

Thanks for all of the good feedback. Seem to me that this glue is going to work well in a lot of different applications. And more "open time" is a good thing for me! :BangHead:

 

[woodguy1975]

David mentioned PPR -- -- which is a powdered Urea Resin adhesive available from Woodworker's Supply for about $26 for a 5# tub. John Richards (Woodguy1975) uses this glue for his laminations in the Maloof-style Rocker Classes he teaches -- as Howard said, long pot life and no creep.

You've got that right. I probably went through 30 lbs of that glue last year. Great stuff with no creep as Howard has been saying. I hate glue creep.

John