Got my $ale priced Dubby Tapering jig yesterday, put it together and checked it out. Thanks for the heads up, Matt, aka splint eastwood!! Review to follow soon with pictures (of course).
bobby g
Well, here goes. My first impression upon opening the box was that the workmanship looked good, the materials looked good and the value seemed good. I assembled it in about an hour including some redo steps due to not bing able to get it right from the instructions and having to refer to the large photo on the outside of the box to make corrections. Look closely and you can see that I put rubber caps on the ends of the adjustment screws on the clamps to keep from tearing up my hand when releasing
Here it is on the saw. I had already cut off the base which made it flush to the blade.
Next, I clamped down a piece of wood in preparation for a test cut. The toggle clamps are easy to adjust. For thicker stock, I will need to add riser blocks under the clamp sub-assembly. Notice that the board is in contact with a stop peg to prevent it from being forced back by the sawing forces. More about the stop peg later.
Here it is after the cut. The scrap dropped off and stayed safely on the table due to the riving knife being present. The instructions tell the operator to complete the cut and turn off the saw before retracting the jig. They didn't say why but it was easy to discover the reason. The miter slot bar had 5 spring loaded plungers that bear against one edge of the slot and push the bar to the opposite edge. Since they are spring loaded, it is possible for the jig to move in a rotational motion when being pulled back and mess up the edge of the jig and edge of the piece that was just cut. DAMHIK. It is, in fact, possible to cause this rotation during the cutting stroke too but not as likely to happen if one is careful to push straight and not force the wood into the blade.
The stop peg is hard to use as shipped. There is no convenient way to tighten it. It had a hole drilled all the way through so I tapped it and threaded-in and epoxied a 1/4-20 bolt that has a hex head with a slot in it. Tightening and loosening is now simple using either a socket or a straight bladed screw driver.
Here is a picture of the bottom of the jig. You can see the plunger locations. One of the plungers came apart while adjusting it (notice the middle one is missing) so I called Peachtree and a couple of replacements are on the way... great customer service I'm happy to report!
Overall, I'm quite pleased. It's a good value, especially at the sale price, and is certainly much safer than the old hinge style jig that I had been using. The clamps make it possible to safely cut small parts.
Hope this helps.
bobby g
bobby g
Well, here goes. My first impression upon opening the box was that the workmanship looked good, the materials looked good and the value seemed good. I assembled it in about an hour including some redo steps due to not bing able to get it right from the instructions and having to refer to the large photo on the outside of the box to make corrections. Look closely and you can see that I put rubber caps on the ends of the adjustment screws on the clamps to keep from tearing up my hand when releasing
Here it is on the saw. I had already cut off the base which made it flush to the blade.
Next, I clamped down a piece of wood in preparation for a test cut. The toggle clamps are easy to adjust. For thicker stock, I will need to add riser blocks under the clamp sub-assembly. Notice that the board is in contact with a stop peg to prevent it from being forced back by the sawing forces. More about the stop peg later.
Here it is after the cut. The scrap dropped off and stayed safely on the table due to the riving knife being present. The instructions tell the operator to complete the cut and turn off the saw before retracting the jig. They didn't say why but it was easy to discover the reason. The miter slot bar had 5 spring loaded plungers that bear against one edge of the slot and push the bar to the opposite edge. Since they are spring loaded, it is possible for the jig to move in a rotational motion when being pulled back and mess up the edge of the jig and edge of the piece that was just cut. DAMHIK. It is, in fact, possible to cause this rotation during the cutting stroke too but not as likely to happen if one is careful to push straight and not force the wood into the blade.
The stop peg is hard to use as shipped. There is no convenient way to tighten it. It had a hole drilled all the way through so I tapped it and threaded-in and epoxied a 1/4-20 bolt that has a hex head with a slot in it. Tightening and loosening is now simple using either a socket or a straight bladed screw driver.
Here is a picture of the bottom of the jig. You can see the plunger locations. One of the plungers came apart while adjusting it (notice the middle one is missing) so I called Peachtree and a couple of replacements are on the way... great customer service I'm happy to report!
Overall, I'm quite pleased. It's a good value, especially at the sale price, and is certainly much safer than the old hinge style jig that I had been using. The clamps make it possible to safely cut small parts.
Hope this helps.
bobby g
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