I've got my own method 8-O I learned it from Clay :icon_thum
I turn my blank down to the desired diameter. And then I sand it all the way through the 4th Micro Mesh pad. I clean the blank with some DNA to remove the dust from the pores. Spin it a little while to let the DNA flash off. I like to apply some BLO to woods that will benefit from it. I lightly apply the BLO, then crank the lathe up to it's highest speed and "burnish" the BLO into the wood, effectively speeding up the drying process.
Then I start to apply the CA. I use a finger off a Nitrile glove (you can get a big box of them cheaply at HF, and on glove will do at least 5 finishes.
With the glove finger on my index finger (left hand) and the lathe on medium speed, I apply a drop or two of medium CA (Stick Fast brand from Klingspor), and wipe it across the blank. The key is to get as even of a coat as possible with the minimum amount of CA.
Then I hit it with aerosol accelerator from a distance of about 12", just a quick blast.
I let that spin for a few minutes. Then I apply another coat of medium CA, same as above.
I apply 4-6 thin coats of medium CA, with accelerator between coats.
Once that has been done, I stop the lathe and check out the results. There might be a bogger or two...or not. That doesn't matter. The important part IMO is the sanding. If you got a bogger, sand it down with 320-400 grit paper. If not start with the first Micro Mesh pad. The key is to evenly sand the CA layer until it is uniformly dull. If there is a shiny spot you haven't flattened the finish completely.
Once you have the finish completely flattened you can progress through the MM pads to bring it to a high polish. I like to finish off with a rubbing (on the lathe) of Hut Plastic Polish that will get rid of a world of sins.
If you have to sand your CA almost down to bare wood to get rid of any boggers, start again with the applications.
Dave