I have never put a finish over tung oil. Depending on the nature of the piece of furniture and its purpose, several coats of tung oil may be sufficient. I put five coats on red oak beds that I made for my two sons over twenty years ago and that buildup still has a nice semigloss glow to this day and has worn well. I am glad to hear that shellac or a poly will work well if I ever need a tougher finish for a table top. Has anyone tried a solvent based lacquer or water based lacquer as a top coat for tung oil?
All depends... I know a purist who insists on only working with certain woods and using Tung Oil by itself exclusively.
I have used it sucessfully after staining and with a top-coat of poly. Very nice and still holding up well after 13 years it has been on the piece.
The first item I used it on was a small jewelry case for the LOML. I had no experience with it so I set about my work with a can of Tung and a brush................ not the way to go. Many thin wiped on coats is the way to go.
She still smiles and keeps filling the box with the pretty things I buy for her just the same :new_Eyecr
Pure Tung Oil or Tung Oil finish???? That doesn't really make a huge difference in your topcoat options, but does determine your cure time and what your finish is initially.
Dave
I like the deep look that oil can give some woods. But if I want a tougher topcoat, I'll first spray a barrier coat of shellac. This will usually a 1-1/2 pound cut of dewaxed alcohol based shellac or Target's Sealcoat water based shellac. I then can apply a tough topcoat like water based lacquer or poly.
Make sure you give the oil enough time to cure before doing anything with it. A week is good but two is better.
I have been trying a small experiment with poly on some unfinished dining chairs we bought :-o . I applied several coats of tung oil to the chairs, with a satin poly brushed on. Seems to be going on well so far. At least LOML likes the look of it. :eusa_clap