Stripping paste wax from furniture

[mkepke]

I am repairing a piece of furniture that is paste wax over tung oil (I know because I built it originally). What can I use to strip off the paste wax ?

I've tried common chemicals on hand like lacquer thinner, but still get massive gumming of the sandpaper.

Do I need to resort to say MEK or is there something friendlier ?

I hope to be able to topcoat (eventually) with a wiping varnish.

-Mark

 

[Glennbear]

Based upon my experiences stripping wax I have two suggestions:

1. I know that custodial firms use ammonia when stripping waxed floors.

2. The body shop industry (auto parts store) uses a chemical specifically designed to remove wax and grease before painting.

Having said that, are you sure that your paper gumming is from the wax and not the oil finish itself ? Perhaps it never really "cured" because it was covered with wax and it is my understanding that an oil finish is softer than a poly or similar "hard shell" finish anyway. :wsmile:

 

[Bas]

I've had good luck removing paste wax with mineral spirits and an abrasive pad. Steel wool (00 - 0000) should also work well.

 

[Howard Acheson]

Exactly what do you mean by "tung oil?" Is is a real 100% pure tung oil or one of the faux "tung oil finishes"?

In general, mineral spirits will work well for paste wax removal. Just be sure to use a slight abrasive like 3/0 steel wool or a green scotchbrite pad. Apply and rub then, before it evaporates, wipe the surface dry with lots of paper towels. The last step is important or all you end up doing is smearing the wax gunk around. Go through the process a couple of times.

Now, the above may not work real well depending how long and how often it has been waxed. Tung oil and tung oil finish does not seal the pores therefore wax can become deeply imbedded and mixed with the finish. If the above process still leaves you with gunky sandpaper, you will have to use a chemical paint stripper to fully remove all the finish.

What do you intend to do once you have it cleaned up?

 

[jeff...]

Mineral Spirits, Naphtha or DNA will not get it all. Try Wash Wax ---> http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=164&atomz=1

The stuff works great.


Thanks

 

[Jeff]

Mineral Spirits, Naphtha or DNA will not get it all. Try Wash Wax ---> http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=164&atomz=1

The stuff works great.


Thanks

The Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for Wash Wax confirms that it is 50-70% Petroleum Distillates (i.e., Mineral Spirits/Naphtha), 30-70% Toluene, and a couple of other minor, but inconsequential components. Both solvents are available at Lowe's in quarts or gallons so you can mix your own in a pinch. Wash Wax is about $28/gal, but you'll also pay hazardous material shipping charges.

Wear nitrile gloves and avoid breathing the vapors. Use in a well ventilated area (a squirrel cage shop fan works nicely). It helps if you can stay upwind from the vapor trail. Be safe. My professional background in organic chemistry often comes in handy for these everyday little projects.

Good luck and keep us posted on how it works for you. :eusa_naug

 

[mkepke]

A follow-up: I opted for Minwax's "Furniture Refinisher", which is a broad spectrum solvent mixture (acetone, toluene, MS). That plus an application of elbow-grease and several sheets of sandpaper seems to have worked.

For Howard - the original finish was paste wax over 100% tung oil. The "replacement finish" will be the standard brew of 1/3 tung oil+1/3 varnish +1/3 MS.

No more wax.

-Mark