I hear that they are well built saws. Is the lower HP rating a function of the blade brake-stopping safety feature?
Pete
Pete
Sawstop Pro unboxing (tool porn!)
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No, it is a function of me not buying the 3hp version, which is ~$500 more. The amount of energy that must be dissipated when the brake triggers is a function of the size and speed of the blade. The industrial version offers motors up to 7.5hp, IIRC.
I don't know how irregular your floor is but did you try the legs? Stomping on the thing to drop the wheels picks up the table enough that the legs clear the floor for me.
My bigger problem is the outfeed table. I left the second set of bolts out of the legs so they will fold. I've got to find one of those pins-with-a-button-release things that's the right side so I don't have to keep inserting and removing the bolts that hold it on. Fortunately, you don't need to tighten them down all they do is keep a light sheer load from things dragging on the table.
My bigger problem is the outfeed table. I left the second set of bolts out of the legs so they will fold. I've got to find one of those pins-with-a-button-release things that's the right side so I don't have to keep inserting and removing the bolts that hold it on. Fortunately, you don't need to tighten them down all they do is keep a light sheer load from things dragging on the table.
I've got the 3HP which was the only one that was available at the time (I would have bought it anyway). Other than the cost, the big allure of the 1.75 is that it will plug into a regular 15A 120V outlet where as the 3HP is going to take 220V.
Yeah, that's fine, _while_ I'm moving it. The problem is when I set it back down. Depending on where I put the saw, those extra two legs could be 1/2" higher or lower than the base of the saw. The result could either be the saw sitting crooked - partially supported by those legs...or the table is flexed by the load. Either way, not the intended usage, I'm guessing.
I'm hoping I can come up with some sort of folding leg system that will attach to the rear of the saw base and allow the table to fold down when I don't need it. That will probably be much easier said than done.
Chris
Yup - that was certainly the way they advertised it. I'm going to re-wire mine for 240v ASAP. Otherwise, my DC is on the same circuit...causing problems. As it turns out, the motor can be easily switched, but there is a contactor assembly that needs to be swapped out to handle 240v - a $65 part
The salesman was not aware of this (rewiring for 240v was one of my questions), but the manual is quite clear.
I'm still a little surprised that they don't offer a mobile base that can support the 36" fence upgrade. The more common extension mobile base won't really help in your situation because of the unevenness of the floor. The mobile base and extension support would need to be sturdy enough to support the saw and the extension legs without allowing any flex, but then the saw would be even more off level.
Here's an idea. Figure out where you will position the saw to do the more common cuts. Adjust the legs for the highest spot (hopefully the most common spot). For each spot, plane a spacer board to put under the legs. This should prevent you from needing to adjust the leg height and reduce the risk of flexing the table if you forget to make the adjustment. If you forget to put the spacer under the legs, you'll notice that they're floating.
If you have more than 2 spots (1 spacer board) where you'll use the saw, I suggest color coding the board and the spot on the floor so you don't use the wrong spacer. It also help prevents you from accidentally turning the spacer in to a drawer. :gar-La;
Here's an idea. Figure out where you will position the saw to do the more common cuts. Adjust the legs for the highest spot (hopefully the most common spot). For each spot, plane a spacer board to put under the legs. This should prevent you from needing to adjust the leg height and reduce the risk of flexing the table if you forget to make the adjustment. If you forget to put the spacer under the legs, you'll notice that they're floating.
If you have more than 2 spots (1 spacer board) where you'll use the saw, I suggest color coding the board and the spot on the floor so you don't use the wrong spacer. It also help prevents you from accidentally turning the spacer in to a drawer. :gar-La;
From the latest 'tips' e-mail from Wood Magazine. May help you keep things even.
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwor...ills/shop-setup-solution/?catref=wd146&page=4
George
Chris,
This might cost a bit but I would seriously consider looking at the underside of your floor. If it is so flexible, I suspect either wide joist spacing or thin sub floor. Wide joist spacing can be corrected by adding intermediate joists - not a trivial project but not too complicated. Thin subfloors can be replaced or simply beefed up. Depending on what your current floor is that may be the issue. For example, in my garage, the top step of the stairway to the 2nd floor is just the 5/8 OSB sub floor - it has never been finished. Right at the edge where the sub floor was never properly supported there is some flex, but I do not detect any flex anywhere else. I have 12" tall truss type engineered beams as the 2nd floor joists spanning a 22' space at 24" OC.
If I were going to put my shop up there I would at least add another layer of 3/4" sub fllor liberally glued and screwed to the existing layer before putting the finished floor...
Chris
This might cost a bit but I would seriously consider looking at the underside of your floor. If it is so flexible, I suspect either wide joist spacing or thin sub floor. Wide joist spacing can be corrected by adding intermediate joists - not a trivial project but not too complicated. Thin subfloors can be replaced or simply beefed up. Depending on what your current floor is that may be the issue. For example, in my garage, the top step of the stairway to the 2nd floor is just the 5/8 OSB sub floor - it has never been finished. Right at the edge where the sub floor was never properly supported there is some flex, but I do not detect any flex anywhere else. I have 12" tall truss type engineered beams as the 2nd floor joists spanning a 22' space at 24" OC.
If I were going to put my shop up there I would at least add another layer of 3/4" sub fllor liberally glued and screwed to the existing layer before putting the finished floor...
Chris
That is a lot more money for a 3hp motor. You can buy a good 3hp motor for less than that. Good luck with your new saw, it looks very nice.
Pete
Well you get a better blade guard on the 3HP version :gar-La; I think the price difference is closer to $400
My thoughts exactly. Even without it, I think this will turn out to be a big upgrade in quality/accuracy from my Delta Contractor Saw. I've never wished for more power (at least, not when using a sharp blade and proper technique). According to the salesman, the 1.5hp saw is identical in every way to the 3hp saw...so should I ever want to upgrade in the future, it is just a motor swap. I don't know how true that is...and I may never know
My thoughts exactly. Even without it, I think this will turn out to be a big upgrade in quality/accuracy from my Delta Contractor Saw. I've never wished for more power (at least, not when using a sharp blade and proper technique). According to the salesman, the 1.5hp saw is identical in every way to the 3hp saw...so should I ever want to upgrade in the future, it is just a motor swap. I don't know how true that is...and I may never know
He's wrong on at least one count. The 3HP comes with the blade guard that has a vacuum port on it where the 1.75 has that as an option. Not that *THIS* is a big deal. The rest of the 1.75 does indeed look identical.
There seems to be freebie offers for the dust port guard when buying the 1.75HP and a free overarm dust hose when buying the 3HP. The 3HP also comes pre-wired for 220V, so that accounts for $65 worth of the price difference.
I'm looking forward to your posts after you get a chance to use the saw. I'm curious how much adjustments are needed to get things accurate.
I'm looking forward to your posts after you get a chance to use the saw. I'm curious how much adjustments are needed to get things accurate.
They have a rebate going jan1-mar31 to get the vacuum port blade guard for the 1.75. Similarly, the 3hp saw rebate will get you the overarm DC kit. I'm working towards running DC ducts on the ceiling, so the blade guard with vacuum port is exactly what I was looking for. Glad I waited those last few days to buy the saw!
I think this is the end of the unboxing thread. I had one more box - the outfeed table. But after opening it up and looking at the design in more detail, I've decided I don't like it. It has three flaws that are fatal for me:
Thanks for your interest and encouragement! I'll post again when I've got a new outfeed table design.
Chris
- Doesn't fold down
- Won't work with mobile base
- The miter slots aren't machined far enough across the table
Thanks for your interest and encouragement! I'll post again when I've got a new outfeed table design.
Chris
If you omit the bottom bolt in the outfeed table legs they will fold. Install the three "leveling" bolts that hold it flush with the top of the table. Then the only thing you need to do to take it on and off is insert a bolt or two (doesn't need to be tight, it's just keeping it from sliding away from the saw). The latter I'm hoping to find a quick release pin to install instead of the bolt.
For the past year my outfeed table as been folded up in the corner, but of late it is hooked up between the saw and the shop wall.
For the past year my outfeed table as been folded up in the corner, but of late it is hooked up between the saw and the shop wall.
Yeah, I briefly experimented with that option. I move my saw frequently (many times per project) - if I need to screw/unscrew the table and re-adjust the legs every time, I'll end up leaving it in the corner as well. I've had a few near-misses that would not have happened if I had an outfeed table. So I want to make it as easy to use as possible - to ensure that I use it.
I designed quick-fold infeed/outfeed tables for my planer mobile base that take about 10 seconds to setup or stow away. They don't need any adjustment for my uneven floor. As a result, I always use them and I get better results. So it shouldn't be hard to accomplish the same thing for the TS outfeed table.
Yeah, thought about that but my floor isn't that bad I guess. At least you can recycle the top of their table.
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