Router Table Fence Question

[hpetty]

Pardon my ignorance on this subject, but I've been following some of the discussions on T-track vs. through slots for attaching the fence on a RT and I have another question.

What is the best method of making sure the fence remains parallel to the miter slot? Unless I'm mistaken, the fence doesn't need to be parallel to anything, EXCEPT when using the miter slot. Is that correct?

Are any of you using an embedded ruler, or t-slot with a built-in ruler, for this purpose. I had planned on using through slots to attach the fence with no ruler, but now I'm thinking of this from WoodPecker:

Any comments/suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[DaveO]

That's a good question. I was typing out my thoughts and realized that I really didn't have a good thought. I will be interested in what others think about this.
Dave

 

[Joe Scharle]

Mine has a ruler that I never use because the fence slops around in practical use and I use a rule anyway. For the actual fence to table bolts, I use T-bolts instead of hex head bolts. They hold better. I had to grind the sides to fit in my case.

For cope and stick, I use a sled against the fence.

The only time I'm concerned with miter slot to fence parallelism is when I use it on my horizontal router (mortising). However, the "fence" is the router base. I'm going to build a sled for that one day too.

I use the miter slot for my box joint jig (no fence).

I've found that using the miter and fence together can be exciting!.

Joe

 

[DavidF]

Best bet is to use a sled that references off the fence. That way you can adjust the distance from the bit by changing the angle of the fence cross the table even with a pivot at the far end. With a mitre slot permanently milled in the table then all fence adjustments must be made in the same plane. much too difficult in a home made table.

 

[Travis Porter]

Well, for years I have not been able to get the fence lined up to the miter guage worth a flip which made it hard for me to do cope and stick joints for raised panel doors. I would use a block of wood up against the fence.

Well, NO MORE!!! Last night I put my new router table with the Jess'em fence and top to use and was able to align the thing perfectly in less than 3 minutes after one trial cut.

My old way works, was time consuming, and inconsistent. My new way is now my only way.

 

[DaveO]

I've found that using the miter and fence together can be exciting!.

Joe

That was the thought that I was having during my earlier reply but second guessed it. I know that isn't safe on the TS, but was unsure of the "excitement" factor on the RT. I am going to add a miter track to my RT, because I have it's width calculated in to my already cut pieces, but it sounds like it really isn't a needed item.

Dave

 

[Travis Porter]

It really isn't a needed item, more of a nice to have. Might consider waiting and buying a "miter track" that way you don't have to worry about wearing the slot out, just my .02 worth.

 

[FredP]

I have 2 slots in my RT but to tell ya the truth i wish i had never put em in. sleds are much easier to use and feather boards just get a clamp round here.:roll: I havent figued out pics yet so no pics this time.8-O

fred

 

[SteveColes]

As far as I can tell the only reason to have a miter slot on a router table is to hold down feather boards. When doing a cope cut, it is best to slide along o the fence.

 

[Travis Porter]

The slide I built from shop notes rides in the slots and the fence doesn't have to be parallel. I have the jessem top so it came with slots, but to Steve's point, I do like to use the featherboard in the slot.