router plate location suggestions please

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Jon

Jon

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Jon Todd
I am building my router table and I plan on using the Rousseau router plate. My table surface area is 29x36. I will be putting the miter gauge track in also. The New Yankee plan says put the track I think 2 inches in and the plate 2 inches from that. that seems to near the edge.

What do you suggest? Oh and just in case here is a picture of the top it is laminated

Jet_saw_cabinet.jpg
 
Travis Porter

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
On my Jess'em top, the miter slot is 5" in and the plate around 1 1/2 from that.

Don't forget to consider your angle iron for your fence may be in the way of where you want to place it.
 
DaveO

DaveO

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DaveO
Jon, I don't recommend a miter track on a router table. I put one in mine, and wish I didn't. I use a sled, squared piece of scrap, anything along those lines instead, running against the fence for cope cuts. My miter track just collects dust and shavings, and weakens the top. I wish I had taken the advice I was given regarding it and left it out. I would have saved a little money for more WC $5 router bits.
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1450

MTCW,
Dave:)
 
DIYGUY

DIYGUY

New User
Mark
I will try and post pix later this evening on what I did - then we will go from there to help you with questions ...
 
A

Alan in Little Washington

Alan Schaffter
Corporate Member
Ditto what DaveO says about the miter track. I left it off my second RT top and haven't missed it. I run the sled against the fence. I rarely use feather boards along the table surface, but when I do I just clamp them to the table. I have a WoodPeckers drill press table, and I hate the fence tracks- they quickly get loaded with dust and chips. I'm sure RT tracks will do the same.

You have a big top. Make sure you brace (wood or better yet angle iron) the underside, especially in the area of the router plate. If you don't, it will sag.
 
Jon

Jon

New User
Jon Todd
You guys are great. I didnt think about doing a sled but that sounds like a good idea. I dont really like the idea of the track but didnt know any better. I would like to see what are your sleds like? Should I put the plate in the middle or about 5 inches from the edge? I am going to build a fence that will fit over my saw fence ani ideas on that also would be great. I really love this place its great.
 
DavidF

DavidF

New User
David
I have my router in the TS extension table as well and I put it centred front to back about 10" in (to the router bit) from the right hand edge. This gives me plenty of room for the TS fence to the right of the bit without it falling off the rail. I like it centred fron to back because it gives me room on the TS fence to clamp stop blocks for stopped dado's etc. No mitre track for me either, just use a made up sled for cross cuts.
 
M

McRabbet

I built a standalone router table several years ago that has a 30" deep by 44" wide top. I have a JoinTech Cabinetmakers fence and a Rousseau insert holding a Milwaukee 5625 3-1/2HP VS Router. The bit is 9" from the left side, allowing enough room for plenty of fence adjustment to the right of the bit and still leaving adequate support for raising panels to the left of the bit. The fence is equipped with T-slots for stops and finger board hold downs. There is mo miter slot as I agree with the others and use a sled to carry stock past the bit for cope cuts. I have a table feather board unit that clamps to the table for lateral support of narrow stock like rails, stiles or mullions. The fence is very accurate and I cut most of my drawer dovetails and box joints on it.
 
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Joe Scharle

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
Thought about your post this AM as I was working on this panel.
Best thing about TS mounted R/T for me is all that surface when you need it and not taking up floor space when you don't.

I like the T-track because I have a miter gage mounted box joint jig. And I glued & screwed (epoxy) the track in place, so it's probably a support member. It takes seconds to square the fence/gage with a framing square. Also, I use sleds a lot. All but 2 are shop made as they get cut up a bit. Other 2 are dedicated to coping bits and are used for setup too.

If you can't make out the numbers, they are:
5" to miter track
12" to bit center

This allows adequate front support for most work and I can still reach the collet easily. Being centered allows me to work from 3 sides, plus I didn't have a better idea.
TS_RT_001.JPG


Joe
 
DaveO

DaveO

New User
DaveO
:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

Well, how did you do it????


Dave:)
 
Jon

Jon

New User
Jon Todd
DaveO said:
:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

Well, how did you do it????


Dave:)
Click to expand...

I bought the Rousea plate and decided i didnt like it so I took it back and got the woodpecker plate. I then ordered the CMT 1.5 diameter pattern Router bit and made a template and well here it is. I took my time and it paid off.

Router_PLate_3_.jpg


Router_PLate.jpg
 
DaveO

DaveO

New User
DaveO
That looks great :eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap Now we know where to get that giant pattern bit, if anyone else needs it :-D:-D

Dave:)
 
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