RC's answer the FK's 3 min DT

[PeteM]

Franks was fast but not so good looking.
Rob's is something else . . .

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Rob+Cosmans+312+Minute+Dovetails.aspx

pete

 

[JimmyC]

Franks was fast but not so good looking.
Rob's is something else . . .

http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Rob+Cosmans+312+Minute+Dovetails.aspx

pete

Knowing how Frank is, I'm sure he's stewing. Thank's for the link Pete it was fantastic:icon_thum.

 

[DavidF]

Better looking than FK's I think.

 

[WoodWrangler]

Nice! I have those videos ... guess I should watch them (again!)

 

[Bas]

Wow. That's all I can say. Although I liked FK's use of a big bow saw. And of course, "if it doesn't fit, don't force it, use a bigger hammer!".

But Rob's dovetails definitely look awesome.

What's next, gang-cutting all four pieces of a drawer in < 5 minutes? Cutting dovetails blindfolded with a chainsaw? Should be a good rivalry.....

 

[Bigdog72]

What's the big shiny thing he used at the end? Do I need one?

 

[FredP]

very nice BUT he owes me at least 2 beers!:gar-La; at least twice I observed him laying his plane on the bench with the blade down.:gar-Cr Never do that....... It will cost you a beer in my shop.:rotflm:

 

[PeteM]

at least twice I observed him laying his plane on the bench with the blade down. Never do that.......

His logic is that there a greater chance to damage the blade of a plane laying on its side (by hitting it with a chisel, bench dog, etc.) than there is causing any harm by sitting if blade down on a flat bench. Makes sense to me. As it is designed to be used "blade down". :eusa_thin

pete

 

[DavidF]

His logic is that there a greater chance to damage the blade of a plane laying on its side (by hitting it with a chisel, bench dog, etc.) than there is causing any harm by sitting if blade down on a flat bench. Makes sense to me. As it is designed to be used "blade down". :eusa_thin

pete

I was just about the say the same thing. Unless you put it down on top of a screw or someother nasty thing then blade down on a bench is fine, certainly that's what I always do. Much more likely to bump something into it if the "working" part is exposed - Guess I owe you plenty of beer Fred....:rotflm:

 

[FredP]

His logic is that there a greater chance to damage the blade of a plane laying on its side (by hitting it with a chisel, bench dog, etc.) than there is causing any harm by sitting if blade down on a flat bench. Makes sense to me. As it is designed to be used "blade down". :eusa_thin

pete

I guess that would make sense if your bench is always kept pristine. Mine never is.:gar-Bi if I accidently set it in some metal filings or on a stray screw or nail and I would be mumbling something under my breath. I have always set them on the side with the blade facing away from the work in progress. I bought many beers to learn this!:rotflm: my workbench top id MDF. you never know what might be hiding in that stuff.:embaresse

 

[PeteQuad]

I am a blade down person, but I am careful to put them down on wood.

 

[FredP]

I was just about the say the same thing. Unless you put it down on top of a screw or someother nasty thing then blade down on a bench is fine, certainly that's what I always do. Much more likely to bump something into it if the "working" part is exposed - Guess I owe you plenty of beer Fred....:rotflm:

gee wizzzz......... Looks like I picked a BAD DAY to quit drinkin!:gar-Cr

 

[FredP]

when I started out many years ago I worked for a cantankerous ol coot that was absolutely anal about this. If he saw me do it it cost a beer for the whole crew for each occurance.:gar-Cr back then we worked on the jobsite without the luxury of a bench. We rarely used anything other than a block plane and the flat surface we worked on might be a ladder or a concrete or dirt floor. Normally your block plane was in the tool bag but you know how that goes if you've ever worked in the field. I guess the habit stuck. old habits die hard.

 

[RayH]

Hey Fred,

I'm another old coot who likes the blade clear and away from the work. :icon_thum

That's our story and we are sticking to it!!!ccasion1

Ray

 

[TV]

What I took away from this is the fret saw blade. When I cut dovetails my biggest time consumer is the remove of tail or pin with a chisel. Frank's earlier videos showed the removal of the tail/pin using a chisel and from my experience, it sucks the enjoyment out of the handcut dovetails.

I have a fret say but I don't think I have good blades. Anybody know where one can get good blades? Or is this something one always needs to send out to have sharpened before use.

tv

 

[cpowell]

Cool video!

Does anyone know where to find a light fixture like Rob uses on his video? That would really help when cutting the waste out with a coping saw. It's tough for me to see the baselines with my overhead fluorescent lights.

I'd also like to find some blades for my coping saw that have a tight turning radius/small kerf like the saw Rob uses. I've been using red oak drawer stock and chopping out the waste isn't as easy as with softer stock.


Chuck

 

[woodArtz]

That'll make you want to ditch your dovetail jig... The little DT saw cut through that pine like it was butta'. Cool!

 

[DIYGUY]

What's the big shiny thing he used at the end? Do I need one?

It's called a plane and that one looks like the Lie-Nielsen clone of the Stanley Bedrock 605. That will only set you back several large ...

And yes - you absolutely must have one and Santa Claus could be coming soon if you have been a good boy ...

:gar-La;

 

[PeteM]

Coping saw vs. Fret saw . . .
In his dvd Rob stresses the fact that the saw is a fret saw NOT a coping saw.
(I didn't know there was a difference)
His fret saw has a very heavy, stiff frame that allows it to make the sharp turns and saw straight. I've been using an elcheapo coping saw with less than stellar results. I did a Google search and didn't find one like he was using. I'll try sending him an email but knowing him it will probably be a $500 saw!

UPDATE: I found that he is selling a fret saw on his website:
http://www.robcosman.com/dvd.php
(Scroll down a bit)
It's not the one he uses in his first video but I guess it's pretty good. $48 with 12 blades.

pete

 

[McRabbet]

Pete,

I have an adjustable frame Fret Saw like the one shown here from Woodcraft (I always knew it as a "Jeweler's Saw"). They also have good assortments of blades (the fret saw blade assortment of 36 blades for $12.99 looks like a deal!).