One thing NOT to do, especially if the shop isn't climate controlled.. Do not cover it with a plastic sheet or waterproof tarp. They will trap condensation under them when the temps start swinging in the spring and fall, and your top will be a rusty mess (I learned by experience). Whatever you cover it with needs to breath enough not to trap the moisture underneath. I was using an old cotton blanket, but just switched to a harbor freight moving blanket . Haven't had it long enough to be sure it will work through the fall, but so far is promising.
Second thing Not to do: If working with treated lumber in your shop, don't let any pieces, sawdust remain on the top overnight. Same goes for unfinished high tannic acid woods like black walnut and oak. Their imprint stain will remain.
Penetrol will leave a thin film, similar to a coat of clear lacquer, and does a good job, but you will have to wax it to make it slick for sliding your work easily. It will wear off in the high use areas. It works better than just wax for stopping sweat marks from droplets or hand, arm prints on hot humid days. I haven't used it in a while (because my 14+yr old saw has so many "life" marks and discolorations that I just use paste wax, and clean up the sweat spots with WD40 and an green abrasive mat), but IIRC, the penetrol took quite a while to dry and harden (24 hrs or so??). May have been due to the season when I applied it.
If I ever get a new one, I would probably go with Boeshield or T-9.
Congrats on the new saw!