Need Log Sawing advice

[Richgod]

I scored two maple logs this weekend, from a wind-blown tree on my Dad's place in Black Mountain. It was the tree my sister and I had our swings in a half century ago. Rumor has it that my Dad also played in it as boy. Needless to say, I hope to be able to make a few keepsakes out of the lumber. They are about 7 1/2 feet long and 20"+ inches diameter. We had to load them with a tractor and unload them with a hoist on the farm.

Most was cut into short pieces for this coming winter's firewood, since he heats with wood. I kept a few because the spalting pattern was so striking. The largest portion of the trunk is still there, about 12' long and too large for my little Husqvarna 18" chainsaw to cut through (about 24-30 inches). My question is: Now that I have the logs, sealed the ends, and have them at my father-in-law's farm drying a bit, how and when should I saw them into lumber? There are some nice knots/limb protrusions that may have some pretty grain patterns under them, but I don't know how to cut the wood to take advantage of it. They have a wheel type sawmill on the farm that we will be using to do the cutting.

Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Richard

 

[Dusty Sawyer]

That is a true 'windfall' if I ever saw one. Beautiful wood. I've been cutting my own lumber for a few years now using a chain mill. Since you have access to the saw, you will not loose as much in the kerf. The dimensions of who you cut those saw logs is a bit of an educated guessing game.... look at how the log bends and where the knots are located and you will get an idea what the log looks like inside.

Some like to cut wood right away, others will leave it on the ground a year or more. I recently milled a red maple that had been on the ground for 9 months and ended up with some loss to rot, but the time added some awesome spalting.

Honestly, even those firewood size logs look good. Somebody would be able to get a few really awesome bowls, vases and pens out of those. They have a huge variation and pattern in the coloration that is hard to find. I'd save those too given the chance.

I would let those sit for 4-6 months and dry a bit before opening them up. Then cut one of those smaller filre logs in half to see how or if it cracks and how far. I like to keep recently sawn logs in a shady area for a couple months before putting them into a warm/dry place..it cannot be rushed... just let the air get to them. Sounds like you probably have access to a shed or loft you can use for drying in the second stage.

Smart move sealing the ends.

 

[DaveO]

I would say you should saw them as soon as possible. They will stay in log form for a good while with their ends sealed and not suffer much degradation, but they also won't do much drying either. Also the spalting will continue if they aren't opened up and allowed to dry, and that could result in the wood eventually becoming useless. I don't think that you would gain any benefit from any other method of cutting, other than thru and thru flat sawing, and that would be the easiest method to use.
Some of those smaller sections can be split, sawing out the center few inches containing the pith, and turned into turning blanks. I would love to have a crack at one ;-)
BTW, a 18" bar chainsaw (with a large enough power-head) can cut a 35" dia log, especially if it is already down.
Dave

 

[NCPete]

BTW, a 18" bar chainsaw (with a large enough power-head) can cut a 35" dia log, especially if it is already down.
Dave

thanks, DaveO for confirming what I had thought!



NICE WOOD!

 

[saw4you]

Richard, I will saw them for you if you would like ,I am in Rolesville not far from Raleigh. I saw with a Wood-Mizer. Thanks

 

[scsmith42]

Richard, that looks like some exquisite wood.

If it were me, I would saw them as soon as possible. In a perfect world, to maximize the quality (and quantity) of your boards and minimize degradation, you would log on day 1, mill on day 2, and get into the kiln on day 3. Any deviation from this will result in more degradation and less yield.

Since the wood has already spalted, you don't have much to gain from letting it spalt further, but you do risk losing wood if the degrade goes too far.

As far as milling, to maximize output I would recommend a band mill. The keft difference alone (as compared with an old circle mill) should yield at least one extra board per log.

As far as dimensions, I would saw to 5/4, and even consider using a resaw to make veneer from some of the boards.

I'll be glad to kiln-dry your wood when it's sawn, should you wish.

Regards, Scott

 

[Ivey]

I also would saw them right away. letting them sit at this point may give you more degrade than you would like. run um over to Jack, and let him saw them up for you, it wont take but a minute or two.:icon_thum Saw that log with that 18" saw, just take it from both sides.:-D

 

[McRabbet]

Richard,

I would recommend that you might want to contact Steven Keull at Mountain Sawyers in Fairfield, NC (just south of Asheville) to see if he could schedule a trip to Black Mountain to saw the main trunk that is still there. He (and his son Wes) operate a Timber King 1600 Bandsaw Mill and cut at very reasonable rates, even at your site. They are listed in the "Where Are" -> "NC Sawyers" list in the lower Menu Bar. They can handle logs up to 32" diameter up to 17' long on their mill and will saw it how you want. They can even arrange kiln drying of the cut wood.

Hope this helps....

 

[jeff...]

Richard, good to see you on the site again. You might recall I met you over at Bernard's quite a while ago. If you want to drag your logs up to Bullock, I would be more than happy to mill em for you. My rates are reasonable, flat sawn .30 a BF. And $20.00 blade fee per damaged blade, if there is trash in logs. If you’re looking for something less that 4/4 or a bunch of 2x2' or something like that then I have to charge by the hour instead of a flat BF rate.

For two 7' 20" diameter logs you looking at somewhere around 250 BF or around $75.00 to mill assuming they are trash free. You’re more than welcome to help / watch if you want. Once I can have a good look at the logs and bust into them, I'll know more what their about and the best way to mill them. I'm booked up all this week and into the middle of next week. But if you like I could set Saturday morning of May 26th aside, so we can take our time and get the best from what you got.

Just remember there's a fine line between good and spalted and rotten. Seeing you already sealed up the ends and assuming there not past the point of good and spalted. I think as long as you keep them up off the ground, dry and in the shade should be ok for a while. Just don't hesitate to long, as the spalting will continue and accelerates as the temps get into the 90's and the humidity increases.

I'm a little surprised the logs are spalted already, how long has the tree been down, was it dead before it fell?



Thanks

 

[Kyle]

saw them asap.. that will be some decent ambrosia maple boards, but they need to start drying..

you have some serious worm track in there..

 

[Richgod]

You're very right. I've been sawing trees/logs up for about 45 years, and usually have had no trouble cutting larger stuff...this saw just doesn't have the muscle it needs to go through these big logs. And unfortunately, our old Mal 1 Chainsaw (VERY old gear drive , 30" bar, 45 Lb saw) is dead...needs a condensor we think, and we have no idea where to get one. This is a VERY old saw! It has cut a lot of wood for us over the last half century though.

Thanks for the words of wisdom! I have NO experience as a sawyer (other than felling/cutting firewood) or drying lumber and need all the help I can get.

Richard