Need advice for a bench top

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cptully

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Chris
I have an approximately 1 ton oak log that was cut down on my in-law's property. Still sitting there waiting for me to find a sawyer who can cut on site or get it loaded on to a transport and delivered to a fix locale sawyer.

Now for the question:

I am planning to turn a large chunk of this log into a new workbench and debating whether to have it cut into 8/4 stock and make the top as a butcher block type. Or, perhaps have it cut to produce as many 12/4 + vertical grained (i.e quarter sawn) boards as I can get out of it and make the top out of fewer larger boards. I specify vertical grain with the idea of minimizing swelling/shrinkage.

Any thoughts?

Chris
 
froglips

froglips

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Jim Campbell
A few thoughts leap to mind, even a few related to your question. You caught me right after my morning coffee, so forgive the excessive verbage.

How wide is the log? I'd be tempted, if its wide enough, to try a single slab top. If you can get maybe 3" to 4" thick and as close to >24" wide as possible, take it out of the middle. Or, take two bits, and cut out the pith.

From what I read, longer is better than wider when it comes to benches. 8 feet is the magic number I see most often.

As I study old benches, many french and german used thick single slab tops. Sure, they had access to wider trees back then. But, I'd venture to say they also didn't want to fuss around with the time and expense of gluing up a butcher block top.

I'm guessing you have the Schwarz book on workbenchs, if not, a very good place to start for making a bench. Also, the beloved St. Roy has done several shows on building workbenches. One in particular has a single slab oak top.

What style of bench are you looking at?

Either case, drying is going to take a while, weeks to years. But, if you go with a single slab top, I say let it dry as a bench. Just take care to seal the end grain to slow down drying.

Then, in a few years, when its dry, let us know if that worked :)

Pics of this tree wouldn't help, but would entertain!

Jim
 
J

JimmyC

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Jimmy
I would have the wood cut flat sawn @ 8/4+ and dry them, then cut them into 3" or 4" pieces and glue them together. This way all the wood movement would be top to bottom on the bench (negligible) and your top will be much more stable. Also at app. 1 ton, I don't think the log will be big enough for stable slabs.

Good Luck.
 
C

cptully

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Chris
Thanks for the replies. The log is ~ 22inches at the base and maybe 18 at the top (~16' long!).

I had just about reached the conclusion that a single slab was out for this tree because it is just a little too small. Also, my little Ridgid TS2412 would absolutely CHOKE on a 12/4 slab of oak.:elvis: Not to say it hasn't been a great saw, just ain't up to such big chunks (and I'm not sure I could handle such a piece myself....:icon_scra). Still debating about flatsawn versus quatersawn... Scott Smith is guessing (site unseen) that this log will yield in excess of 300 board feet:gar-Bi quatersawn, and I am currently estimating that I need less than 200 boardfeet.

I'm currently thinking about a modified version of "The Essential Workbench":
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=2882

As for books, I don't have Schwartz' book but I do have similar tomes by Scott Landis and Lon Schleining. I'll have to hunt up a copy of Schwartz - books books books, you can never have too many:wsmile:!

Chris
 
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JimmyC

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Jimmy
 
scsmith42

scsmith42

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Scott Smith
Chris, if you plan on standing the boards verticle and glueing up the top, I'd recommend that you have the wood milled 4/4, primarily because it will dry much faster and more stable.

A slab top would be way cool though!

Scott
 
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