Need a new Table saw blade

[Westpacx3]

I'm fairly new to woodworking but I have a nice set of tools bought used from my Uncle when he moved. I'm currently using a sawstop professional 3hp unit with mostly a 60 tpi blade to avoid changing blades put as often. I have an assortment of Frued, Craftsman and Dewalt blades that I run through. However some leave the kerf marks on the edges or burn a little or leave the paint behind. As I search blades they seem to run from $30.00 to $200.00. Forrest, Ridged , CMT etc seem to be the market outside the box stores. I don't make fine furniture and am still doing boxes, crafts and frames but I want to achieve a quality product.

Having said all that, what are you folks using?

Is a $200.00 worth it?

Is there a good enough middle ground?

Or just bit the bullet and go big?

 

[Mike Davis]

I use Freud Diablo for about $50 each.

 

[FredP]

Freud glue line rip for ripping and Freud 80 tooth for cross cuts. Full kerf. You have no need for thin kerf blades with that saw

 

[mpeele]

Some of the issues you mentioned might not be caused directly by the blade but could be caused by a dirty blade, miss aligned blade or fence. Before buying a new blade check those. Technique could also cause rough cut and burning. If you stop moving in a cut you can get burning. If you allow the material to drift away from the fence you'll get a poor cut.

Freud 50 tooth full kerf combination blade was the first carbide blade I ever bought. Before that I was using steel blades. At one time Forest had a program where you could buy a blade and return it if you didn't think it was better than what you were using. I bought a Woodworker blade and sent it back. It cut good but not any better than the Freud which cost about half as much. With a 3 hp saw I would only use a full kerf blade. Thin kerf blades a sensitive to feed rate. If i'm cutting something where I concerned with kerf width or the material is thin or small I use a 7 1/4" Diablo cross cut or rip blade.

Probably the first brand you buy will be the only brand you will buy again. At one time there probably was a bit of difference in blade brands but today probably not so much.

 

[Warped Woodwerks]

I too have a SawStop 3hp PCS

I use Ridge Carbide and Tenryu

Ridge Carbide:
Ridge Carbide TS2000 10" 40T Full Kerf Box Joint Blade with Flat Bottom Grind
Ridge Carbide 10" 80T Hi-ATB

Tenryu:
Tenryu GM-25540-2 10-Inch 40-Tooth Full Kerf Blade for Sawstop

I would like to buy 1-2 more, but for now, the above work for me.


Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[Westpacx3]

Freud glue line rip for ripping and Freud 80 tooth for cross cuts. Full kerf. You have no need for thin kerf blades with that saw

I actually have that blades but forget to pull it . I also have their flat tooth grind for rabbets and the like. I do like the weight and amount metal it has and figure it's probably more stable than most of the thin stuff.

Thanks

 

[Westpacx3]

Some of the issues you mentioned might not be caused directly by the blade but could be caused by a dirty blade, miss aligned blade or fence. Before buying a new blade check those. Technique could also cause rough cut and burning. If you stop moving in a cut you can get burning. If you allow the material to drift away from the fence you'll get a poor cut.

Freud 50 tooth full kerf combination blade was the first carbide blade I ever bought. Before that I was using steel blades. At one time Forest had a program where you could buy a blade and return it if you didn't think it was better than what you were using. I bought a Woodworker blade and sent it back. It cut good but not any better than the Freud which cost about half as much. With a 3 hp saw I would only use a full kerf blade. Thin kerf blades a sensitive to feed rate. If i'm cutting something where I concerned with kerf width or the material is thin or small I use a 7 1/4" Diablo cross cut or rip blade.

Probably the first brand you buy will be the only brand you will buy again. At one time there probably was a bit of difference in blade brands but today probably not so much.

Thanks, I did notice yesterday that I drifted off the fence but it was after the cut like the riving knife pushed it. The fence was an issue but I fixed that a month ago. I had just assumed it was right when I moved it in. Fortunately none of my projects are a big deal to redo as all my wood is free from a dumpster at a cabinet shop. As in response prior, I do like the feel of the Freud industrial brand. I bought it at klingspor in Hickory.

Thanks

 

[Westpacx3]

I too have a SawStop 3hp PCS

I use Ridge Carbide and Tenryu

Ridge Carbide:
Ridge Carbide TS2000 10" 40T Full Kerf Box Joint Blade with Flat Bottom Grind
Ridge Carbide 10" 80T Hi-ATB

Tenryu:
Tenryu GM-25540-2 10-Inch 40-Tooth Full Kerf Blade for Sawstop

I would like to buy 1-2 more, but for now, the above work for me.


Let me know if you have any questions.

I was using a 60 tpi to keep from blade changes. Based on your name, I assume you sell your work. Do find it a big deal to just change blades? I basically hate unplugging the machine each time.

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

Forrest blades are worth the extra $, especially when you have them resharpened. The Woodworker II 40T is a good dual purpose blade. Ridge (don't confuse with Ridgid) carbide blades have a unique feature that gives a really smooth cut--glue ready right off the saw. Research this brand, and if what you read makes sense, try one. A quality flat tooth blade will cut clean dadoes and rabbets when you're making boxes.

 

[Warped Woodwerks]

I was using a 60 tpi to keep from blade changes. Based on your name, I assume you sell your work. Do find it a big deal to just change blades? I basically hate unplugging the machine each time.

Besides the quality of blades I use, keeping the kerfs the same, or very close to the same, is 2nd on my list. Also, using blades by the same manufacturer help with extremely quick blade changes, too.

I can change my blades rather quickly and without having to adjust brake spacing, EXCEPT when I swap from my Ridge to the Tenryu, or visa versa. I noticed the diameter of the Tenryu is slightly different from the Ridge Carbides I use. I'm talking 1/16th to 1/32th. Not much, but I'm anal about my blades and saw.


And to your last comment, I ALWAYS unplug my saw when I change blades, always. I would hate to have the saw turn on while I'm swapping blades, or tightening\losening the nut.


Hope this helps... If not, let me know.

 

[Westpacx3]

Besides the quality of blades I use, keeping the kerfs the same, or very close to the same, is 2nd on my list. Also, using blades by the same manufacturer help with extremely quick blade changes, too.

I can change my blades rather quickly and without having to adjust brake spacing, EXCEPT when I swap from my Ridge to the Tenryu, or visa versa. I noticed the diameter of the Tenryu is slightly different from the Ridge Carbides I use. I'm talking 1/16th to 1/32th. Not much, but I'm anal about my blades and saw.


And to your last comment, I ALWAYS unplug my saw when I change blades, always. I would hate to have the saw turn on while I'm swapping blades, or tightening\losening the nut.


Hope this helps... If not, let me know.

Thanks, I do unplug each time as well.

 

[Mike Davis]

Thanks, I did notice yesterday that I drifted off the fence but it was after the cut like the riving knife pushed it. The fence was an issue but I fixed that a month ago. I had just assumed it was right when I moved it in. Fortunately none of my projects are a big deal to redo as all my wood is free from a dumpster at a cabinet shop. As in response prior, I do like the feel of the Freud industrial brand. I bought it at klingspor in Hickory.

Thanks

If you would like a second opinion on your blade and guide alignment let me know. I have worked on several SawStop saws.

 

[Westpacx3]

If you would like a second opinion on your blade and guide alignment let me know. I have worked on several SawStop saws.

Thanks Mike, I'll pull the book out and recheck all that.

 

[junquecol]

Who sharpens your blades makes a world of difference. Personally, I use Dynamic Saw in Buffalo. As for Forrest WWII's, I find them over, as in over rated, and over priced. I don't know of any professional cabinet shops that run Forrest blades. Best bang for the buck blade is the now discontinued Delta 35-7657. At one time, you buy them five for a Ben Franklin, delivered to your door. Cheaper than sharpening!

 

[Rwe2156]

I like CMT. Freud blades are good but don’t hold an edge as long.

I’ve never unplugged a table saw in my life to change a blade. Its almost impossible to turn the switch on accidentally, but whatever makes you feel safe.

When changing blades on the SawStop you should turn the on/off button off to deactivate the brake, so there’s no need to unplug it.

 

[Westpacx3]

I like CMT. Freud blades are good but don’t hold an edge as long.

I’ve never unplugged a table saw in my life to change a blade. Its almost impossible to turn the switch on accidentally, but whatever makes you feel safe.

When changing blades on the SawStop you should turn the on/off button off to deactivate the brake, so there’s no need to unplug it.

My cmt on my miter is working quit well. I have not used my Freud enough to assess the sharpness but I'll keep an eye on that.

I actually forgot about the switch. I'm still learning the machine.

Thanks

 

[Oka]

I have a Ridge and Forrest, like them both. I have a couple of Leitz from Harvey 36 teeth @ 5deg. Like those alot, then a CMT rip and n Amana 80 tooth. I have one Freud thin kerf I use when I need a thin kerf

 

[bob vaughan]

For furniture components, an 8" Forrest Woodworker II on a 10" table saw.
About a year ago someone put one in my hands to try because it was a little outside the box and he knew it. His level of confidence was high and his experience level was highly qualified. It didn't take me but a few test cuts to confirm that he was 100% correct. For me, it was a game changer.
I don't keep that blade on all the time because it would be a waste when roughing out parts for the jointer and planer. Once the stock is prepped, on goes that blade and there's very little jointer edge detailing required. An 1/8" kerf blade in an 8" diameter blade proportionally is 25% thicker compared to a 1/8" kerf 10" blade.

 

[Cuprousworks]

I don't quite understand your statement-

An 1/8" kerf blade in an 8" diameter blade proportionally is 25% thicker compared to a 1/8" kerf 10" blade.

Is it that smaller diameter disks are proportionally more rigid? They probably have less risk and amount of deviation from flat as well. But isn't the same true for full kerf blades?

 

[Martin Roper]

I have the Amana Glue Line ripping blade and have been very pleased with it. I much prefer it to the Forrest I had. Those are the only two I have experience with.

I also have the Freud Plywood & Melamine Blade that I use for crosscuts. I bought it 20 years ago to build several tables for my school.