Modern Longworth style chuck

[Tommy Smith]

New guy here, intros were done in the "Who we are" forum. I searched and did not see any posts on the factory made longworth style chuck so I decided to post on the one I received today. Nicely made, smooth operation and appears to be a quality product. I had been waiting for it to come so I could finish a cherry bowl for my wife so I put it to use right away. Operation was simple and it held the bowl firmly. There is a well defined inner rim on this bowl so there was plenty to grip,(I expanded into the bowl) different style rims may need more support. The bowl centered well and the metal disk supplied with the chuck will fit in any #2 jaws. I will post pics and the link to where I purchased it in case anyone wants to study it a bit. Its just one more way to do it. ($129.00 w/ free shipping, they were a bit more on other sites)
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u233/1vulcan/DSCN2521.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u233/1vulcan/DSCN2522.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u233/1vulcan/DSCN2520.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u233/1vulcan/DSCN2524.jpg
and the link:
http://www.woodline.com/p-2564-longworth-style-chucks.aspx

 

[Rob]

Saw those at the GA symposium last year, they do work very nice. Decided for the price I'll stick my cole jaws.

 

[Tommy Smith]

Saw those at the GA symposium last year, they do work very nice. Decided for the price I'll stick my cole jaws.

I paid $129.00 w/ free shipping.

 

[Nate Davey]

They look nice, but I made a vacuum chuck that works off my shop vac for about $5.

 

[Tommy Smith]

They look nice, but I made a vacuum chuck that works off my shop vac for about $5.

How well does it work? Will it hold a majority of your turnings? Seems having a variety of ways is the way to go.

 

[woodArtz]

Looks good! Congrats!!:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum

 

[ScottM]

They look nice, but I made a vacuum chuck that works off my shop vac for about $5.

I would be interested in hearing more on this.

 

[JRD]

Nate,

How about telling us how you did it?

Lots of detail would be great on where you obtained needed parts, etc.

Jim

 

[Nate Davey]

I got my idea and rough plans from this YouTube Video I decided to use a 4" PVC coupler for my mounting face. This way, if I had something smaller to chuck I could get various sized adaptors to neck down the opening.

I already had a Beall spindle tap for my lathe, so opted to cut threads in this piece of Holly, you could use an old face plate if you don't have a tap. I have heard of people using the new composite decking for their block and, apparently it turns and takes a thread well. Whatever you choose it will need to be non-porous for obvious reasons.

A list a parts you will need:

Threaded lamp rod long enough to go through your head stock
PVC coupler of desired size
Bearing
Plastic tubing that will fit tightly over your lamp rod
Small hose clamps.
Wood
Closed cell foam

I started my mounting up my block, getting it round and truing the faces. I, then, drilled through the block with an appropriate sized hole for the lamp rod to go through, should be loose enough to allow free turning once it is installed in the bearing. I then cut the appropriate sized recess for my spindle tap and tapped the hole. I soaked my threads in thin CA to give them a little extra strength, then flipped it around and screwed in on my spindle.

Re-true the face and cut a recess that your will bearing will fit in snugly. I wasn't able to find on with the small ID so turned a small hard wood insert fit my lamp rod. I found mine at Auto Zone. Next, I scuffed the bearing inner and outer sleeves and CA'd them into the recess then into the lamp rod. For an added bit a sealing I used hot melt glue to seal up the bearing wood junctions. Be careful not to glue the spinny parts of your bearing.

Next I cut the rabbit for the PVC coupler and hot melt glued it in, also running a bead of hot melt around the inside where it meets the wood. Once the glue dries, true up the coupler end and apply the close cell foam to the edge to allow it to seal against your project without scarring it. I bought my close cell foam from Hobby Lobby for .25 for an 8.5x11 sheet. Turn a plug to fit your shop vac hose I used a cut off piece of lamp rod to go through the plug and a 3/8" bleeder hole to keep you vac from dead heading.

Attach your hose to the rods and go to work. It holds a pretty good vacuum, I had to really pull to get a platter off, but it will get off centered if you are too aggressive with your cuts. Hope this helps

P.S. I still need to trim up the excess foam I've just been lazy.

 

[Tommy Smith]

Good deal, nice work making the vacuum.