Jointer plane question

[Deacon Shuster]

I'm looking into buying a jointer plane (maybe a #7) and came across some low-angle/bevel-up models that are available. Does anyone have any tool reviews or comparisons on these types of jointers? Better yet, if someone has some first hand experience I would like to get any feedback that I can.

Thanks in advance,
Doug

 

[NCPete]

Doug, last time Michael and I were in WoodCraft (to pick up the Rikon BS) we spent way too much time there playing with just such an animal. All I can say is SWEET!

 

[DaveO]

The bevel up blade orientation allow you to adjust the cutting angle to deal with what ever type of wood and grain configuration you are working with. Seeing as the cutting angle is determined by the micro bevel vs. the bedding angle, you can freely change the cutting angle by sharpening the micro bevel. They do very well as shooting and jointer planes because they can handle the endgrain as well as side grain.
I haven't used one, as I can't afford a Lie-Nielsen or Veritas plane, but some day I hope to :eusa_pray :eusa_pray

Dave

 

[4yanks]

Here Is a review by Derek Cohen. I must admit I am intrigued. I own a Record #7 and a Stanley #8 they both work well, but I like the idea of adjusting the bevel angle to adapt to hardwood. Hope this helps.

http://www.oldtoolsshop.com/z_pdf/lv-Plane/LVBevelUpJointer-ne.pdf

 

[froglips]

A bevel up plane is reportedly also beginner friendly, as you don't have to deal with the chip breaker.

I've picked up several #7's over the years, not too hard to find, but flattening the sole is a whole other issue.

Might check out Knight Toolworks, his wooden jointer plane is about $200.

Jim

 

[Nativespec]

I just purchased the Lee Valley no. 7 and their scrub plane after reading the reviews in the NCWW Link Library. The Lee Valley (Veritas) sells for $100 to $150 less than the Lie Nielson and you can get it with the same A2 steel. The reviewers did not like the appearances of the Veritas planes (at first glance) but seemed to like their performance. The Veritas no. 7 also has a 90 degree fence option ($34). Here are the LN and LV links. Also, I bought a couple of LN planes from the Best Things and I bought the Veritas planes from their website:
http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/planes.htm

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?cat=505

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=52414&cat=1,41182,48944

 

[jglord]

I own the LN #7 the guys tried out at Woodcraft and own the low angle jack plane (only 14" vs. 22" for the #7). You're welcome to stop by Woodcraft in Raleigh sometime and try it out.
IMHO - I've not used any other plane that cuts like the #7. I believe it is both the weight and the ability to close down the mouth that allows this tool to cut hard woods so well. From FW a few months back, the author reccomended an angle of 45 - 50 degrees for hardwood work and, as I work with maple, cherry and other hardwoods (mostly) the higher angle made sense to me.
The low angle plane is great for end grain or mixed (e.g. ends of doors) and it does a nice job on woods like poplar when edge cutting.

 

[Deacon Shuster]

Thanks for all of the great feedback!! I really like the LV planes. As a former machinest I really appreciate the mechanics of all of their products. I own one of their shoulder planes and would recommend it. I was looking at the LN #7 1/2 low-angle Jointer (similar to the LV). The differences seem to be that the LN does not have an adjustable mouth and the set screw centering feature that the LV does. Anyone know if this will cause undue frustration?

As far as wooden planes, I haven't crossed that bridge yet. I am interested in wooden planes though. Maybe someday I'll make the transition. I really do appreciate the lead to other options.

Thanks again, and please give any additional feedback. I have much to learn.

Doug

 

[fsdogwood]

I have the LV LABU-jack, regular and high-angle
irons, Stanley #6, #7, Keen Kutter #8 with
Rarebear blade, ECE jointer plane.

Recently I am using the he K8 and ECE jointer
planes, they do cause tear outs, I guess I don't
have the K8 blade sharp enough, and the mouth
on the ECE jointer is little too big. However, they
both do good job straightening board and edge.

So I was using the K8 or the ECE jointer after
a K5 or ECE jack, then followed by the high-angle
LV LABP jack to get rid of the tear out marks,
finally LV scraping plane to really smoothing up.

HTH.

Pinwu

 

[Deacon Shuster]

Pinwu,

Thanks for the feedback. I've also battled with tearout. And, like you, I had to deal with mouth opening and blade angle problems. It sounds like you have a system down. That seems to be the fun thing about wood, you never really stop learning.

Thanks again,
Doug