inlay question

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skeeter

New User
Charles
I want to put an inlay (approx 8-10") in a small tabletop. I don't know if I should try the traditional inlay with contrasting wood or use something like a compucarver to cut the design and fill in with epoxy. Here is the design and the reason I'm reluctant to try it.

pointe2.jpg


Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.
 

ScottM

Scott
Staff member
Corporate Member
A couple questions. 1. What type and color of wood is the top? 2. If the rest of the prject is hand made do you reall want to use a computer carved figure?
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Why don't you try it as marquetry with a thick veneer. I have seen your work and you are very capable of something like that. The cutting of the two pieces together with an angled scroll saw blade will just about guarantee a perfect fit. I think that routing out the recess and scrolling the inlay could result in some problems due to the intricacies of the design. Computer routing and filling with plastic ain't woodworking IMO.

Dave:)
 

woodguy1975

New User
John
I want to put an inlay (approx 8-10") in a small tabletop. I don't know if I should try the traditional inlay with contrasting wood or use something like a compucarver to cut the design and fill in with epoxy. Here is the design and the reason I'm reluctant to try it.



Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

Since you are wanting to put the design in a table top that is of a much thicker material than the inlay I'd scroll it out, mark out the recess with the actual peice, and freehand route the inlay. I've demonstrated this technique about 3 times at the woodworking show in Hickory. I'm sure you'd have no problems.

The other technic is marketry and then veneer to the solid wood substrate. This can be done with a sharp razor blade and some patience. The veneers will literally snap together if you do it right.

Either technique is very doable. As with anything new practice it first. It will probably take you a couple tries before you'd be ready for the actual peice if you are like me. :)

Good luck,

John
 

skeeter

New User
Charles
Sorry to get offline so fast, lightning got pretty rough for a while.

Scott, I think I'll use some heavy figured Maple for the top and either Mahogany or Walnut for the frame and inlay.

DaveO, I agree with you on the computer routing. Guess I was trying to find an easy way out. Sometimes I'm just slow to try something new.

John, when I read your post, the first thing that came to mind was the hand plane inlay on your shop cabinet that fit like a glove. I think I'm going to try the scrolling and router.

Wish me luck!!!
 

ScottM

Scott
Staff member
Corporate Member
That scrolled inlay and contrasting woods should look great. Don't forget to post pictures.
 

sawduster

New User
Robert
just remember to cut each section in the right direction :BangHead: DAMHIKT

It will look kewl fer shure ....can't wait to see the pics
 

skeeter

New User
Charles
I knew this was going to be agrivating, but man . . . . and I haven't even gotten to the hard part.

DSC00253.JPG
 

jack briggs

New User
jabguit
While I haven't inlaid into something like furniture, I do inlay shell into guitar fingerboards. It looks to me like you're doing just fine. Just take your time.

If I were doing that inlay into solid wood I'd use my Dremel with router base and a downcut inlay end mill, say 1/8" diameter. This way the downcut bit will leave no fuzz on the edges for a clean rout and you can clean up where needed with sharp knives or chisels.

Looking very good! :eusa_clap
Keep us posted!


Cheers,
 
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