Ideas for Working on Router Table w/Cap Molding

[huckster]

Hi all,

I've got about 48' of cap molding to install above the base boards on a renovation project I'm working on. I'm making it on my router table out of oak.

I didn't find that exact router bit but here is a comparable example bit that I'm using to make the cap molding:

http://www.freudtools.com/p-206-base-and-cap-bits.aspx


So, one difficulty I've encountered is that as I run the stock against the bit I'm loosing valuable surface area to hold aligned against the fence and the table as well as something to hold onto.

So, if the stock is 1" by 1-3/8" I don't end up with much to hold on to as I get a full profile from the bit.

I guess I'm wondering how much stock should be wasted to end up with the finished size of 11/16" by 1-3/8"? I'd like to waste as little as possible.

Do I just plan on making all the stock pieces so over sized that I can run them on the router table? e.g. 1-1/2" x 1-3/8 ?

The other question I was wondering is how to join say 2 pieces of stock end to end to make a continuous piece of molding on the router table?
Finger joint router bit or Glue joint router bit? ideas?

Thanks for any ideas,

~Huckster

 

[Gotcha6]

Just a thought...... Is your stock already ripped? If not, why not rip it to 3" & rout both profiles on the opposite sides of the same face then rip it to 1-3/8" high? Your bit is made to do the profile inverted, so the fat side will be up all the time. It should give you more control & the rip could be touched up minimally as it will be seated atop the base moulding anyway.

 

[Joe Scharle]

True. Profile the edge of a wide board and rip off what you want. Keep the fence gap tight, because the fence not the bearing should bear the edge.
I usually scarf joint base cap or any trim molding. There are finger joint bits available, but I haven't heard any anecdotal info.
Joe

 

[Charles Lent]

When I do this I try to do the routing on as wide of a board as possible, like doing both edges of a board that is twice as wide or more as the final dimension and then rip off the routed edges to their final desired width. This proces makes the work less flexible and easier to hold onto without getting too close to that spinning sharp thing. I also use feather boards to keep the board against the fence and against the table at the cutting point to minimize waste. To join long pieces I usually resort to scarf joints glued and nailed/pinned at final assembly.

Charley

 

[huckster]

Thanks Guys,

I'm down with the practicality of the scarf joint. I'd never heard of that term (till this wonderful forum) Here's a reference http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarf_joint
The increased surface area of end grain does sound very practical v. a butt joint.

I have in the past anticipated ripping the routed piece down to the final dimensions. However when I did it I was ripping the width (the shorter dimension) of the x-section of the molding and not the length. Doing the length sounds better as it is easier to negotiate on the table saw later on. I may have to extend the height of the the fence on the router table to take advantage of the extra stock to keep the piece aligned against the bit.

Thanks again, I've now got a better game plan

~Huckster

 

[jeff...]

Thanks Guys,

I'm down with the practicality of the scarf joint. I'd never heard of that term (till this wonderful forum) Here's a reference http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarf_joint
The increased surface area of end grain does sound very practical v. a butt joint.

I have in the past anticipated ripping the routed piece down to the final dimensions. However when I did it I was ripping the width (the shorter dimension) of the x-section of the molding and not the length. Doing the length sounds better as it is easier to negotiate on the table saw later on. I may have to extend the height of the the fence on the router table to take advantage of the extra stock to keep the piece aligned against the bit.

Thanks again, I've now got a better game plan

~Huckster

A Scarf Joint is the primary rough construction joint used in board stretching, just make sure your scarf joint is over a stud or other form of solid backing. It's usually a mating pair of 45 degree angles. A couple of nails will keep the joint together and securely in place.

Scarf Joints are also used in trim work by a good trim carpenter - a little dab of glue and a trim nail will keep it together and firmly fixed where you want it - again a 45 degree mating pair of angles.

I haven't seen scarf joints used much in furniture construction but have seen Finger Joints used in a lot of low end furniture and trim from BORG.

my 2 cents worth...

Thanks

 

[Joe Scharle]

"I'm down with the practicality of the scarf joint. I'd never heard of that term (till this wonderful forum) Here's a reference http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scarf_joint
The increased surface area of end grain does sound very practical v. a butt joint."

In practice I cut my scarfs at 30 deg. If my miter didn't have a 30deg detent (some don't), I'd cut them at 22.5deg (on most miter saws).