I want to make picture frames

[sawduster]

Nuttin fancy .....just simplistic, decent quality frames . Tool wise and material wise what are the basics I need to get started ?

I would greatly appreciate any ideas , procedures, experience ( good or bad ) and just general discussion on the process of picture frame making

Thanx in advance :icon_thum

 

[Mike Davis]

I ran a frame shop back in the 80s.

We mostly bought the molding and cut/assembled. But once in a while I got to do something extra.

You can make some pretty decent profiles with just a router and a table saw. There are also molding knives for the tablesaw, but the router makes better work. If you just want flat faces it can all be done on the tablesaw. All of the barn-wood frames are done very simple like that. Just cut a rabbit for the picture then cut the pieces at 45° glue and brad till the glue sets. Splines would dress it up a bit and be stronger than the brads.

The finish is everything and this is one area where i would recommend getting set up to spray dye or stain and lacquer.

None of it is rocket science. I knew 19 year old girls that learned in an hour. Some didn't last much longer than that. It's pretty boring work. :rotflm:

 

[Joe Scharle]

There is FUN SIDE TO PICTURE FRAMES. oops! Anyway, you can put a lot of cutoffs, thin pieces and play with router bits to get something unusual. Only frame pic I have on the site. Thin piece of leftover purple heart and ramin.
Pic is actually referring to Merle band clamps (The Best)

 

[PeteM]

I ran a frame shop back in the 80s.

Hey Mike - Someday you have to make a list of the things you HAVEN'T done !!! :wink_smil

pete

 

[Ray Martin]

Robert,

I agree with Mike that a table saw and a router would let you do all sorts of stuff. You could make a couple of jigs for the table saw (or router) that would let you do some additional details. Splined corners are a nice touch. They add a load of strength to an otherwise weak joint (glued end grain at the miter). I googled "spline sled" and this is the first link that came up. http://lumberjocks.com/projects/26038 It shows a picture of a simple sled. With a sled like this, you would put the frame's corner into the angle of the sled, with the frame upright, or perpendicular to the table of the saw. Joe's post has what looks like a glue up of contrasting woods which are then miter cut (45 degree corners). You can cut the rabbet for the artwork into the frame stock with the table saw before you assemble the frame parts. You can cut the rabbet before or after assembly with a router. I'd suggest using the router in a router table for this kind of work.

We do want to see some photos of frames after you get going... :gar-Bi

 

[Mike Davis]

Car salesman
Politician
Banker
Stock Broker
Anything Medical

And sadly never served in the Armed Forces. I have tremendous respect for those guys!

 

[gator]

If you are using 45° miters for the corners there are two tricks I found that need to be followed. First, cut complimentary 45's. That is, miter saw or table saw, cut one side in one direction and the other side in the opposite direction. This is to compensate for any little bit the saw may be off. In other words, if the saw or jig, is actually 44° then cut one way will give you 44° and cut from the opposite direction you will get 46° which will leave no gap when put together (44 + 46 = 90). Second is to make triply sure that opposite sides of the frame are exactly the same length. Stop blocks on your saw is the best way to accomplish this. Sides not being the same length will make your frame catty-wampus.

George

 

[Mt. Gomer]

If you are using 45° miters for the corners there are two tricks I found that need to be followed. First, cut complimentary 45's. That is, miter saw or table saw, cut one side in one direction and the other side in the opposite direction. This is to compensate for any little bit the saw may be off. In other words, if the saw or jig, is actually 44° then cut one way will give you 44° and cut from the opposite direction you will get 46° which will leave no gap when put together (44 + 46 = 90). Second is to make triply sure that opposite sides of the frame are exactly the same length. Stop blocks on your saw is the best way to accomplish this. Sides not being the same length will make your frame catty-wampus.

George

Great tips George, especially the complimentary bit... never though to do that before.