I need a drawer making class

[jeff...]

Because I have come to the conclusion that I suck at making drawers :BangHead: maybe someone could suggest a good book? all the differnt slides out there make me feel like I'm :drunken_s trying to decide what's the right one to use for which drawer. I forced myself to go intro Lowes last night and found some cream colored 22"slides on clearance for 3.00 a pair so I grabed 5 pari and also a damaged piece of 1/4" 4 x 8 birch ply for 10.00 / Gluded up the drawer frames and started fitting the slides in the case, It;s going to work but not like I hoped it would. I need some serious help :BangHead:


HELP - Thanks - JELP - Janks

 

[NZAPP1]

Yeah we would like to see what the problem is. I know it is not a DT problem :rolf: since we never cut them

 

[jeff...]

Hung up on how to make a good drawer and what rails to use. It's not really one issue it's what the right way to make a drawer. Repairing furniture I've seen a lot of different drawer construction methods. Some DT, lock joint, even some butt joints. I would assume DT being the "premium" construction method and butt joint being the "cheaper" method. I either need a class or a good book that clearly explains the how to's of varying drawer construction methods and I could use more understanding of slides and their intended usage. Since I don't have a DT saw or jig, I used my TS to create mortise and tendon to joint the drawer frames together. Cut a 1/4x1/4" slot, 1/2" from the bottom and slide in a piece of birch plywood. I used gorilla glue to glue it all together. It worked but I know there's got to be a better way :roll:...

Anyways since you asked here's a picture, it's a little late to change it now but I want to learn a better way for next time.

Thanks

 

[DaveO]

A drawer is just a box. They can be constructed in many ways, the most important thing is that the joinery is strong especially in the front that will take the abuse opening and closing it. A groove and panel for the bottom is prety much the norm. Slides do complicate the issue a little, but mainly in leaving enough clearance for them...buy them before you make your drawers. The Rockler catalog has some real good information on what slides are best used and in what application. Also here's a little bit of info I found on Woodweb:
Drawer Slide Choices and Tips

Here's another place to find some info:
Accuride International :: Global experts in the application, design, and supply of precision slides.


HTH, Dave

 

[Travis Porter]

What slide to use is a personal preference and what you are going to use it for IMO. I figure I know what you got for $3 a pair at Lowes, and if I am guessing correctly, they are the 3/4 extension slides with a nylon wheel at the back and the front. I have used them on kitchen cabinets/vanities a lot and like them. Only draw back is they are 3/4 extension and not full extension. If you want really smooth action go for ball bearing full extension. Side mounts are not too bad in price, hidden are on the expensive side.

As for drawers, I have done dovetails (router w/jig), sliding dovetails (router), drawer lock with table saw, and halfway been able to do drawer lock in a router table with a drawer lock bit. The fast and dirty way for me is the drawer lock with the table saw. You can make all the cuts with just a few set ups (I think 2) setups on the tablesaw. To your point, dovetails are the premium with handcut being the creme de la creme.

I have not seen a good book on drawers and hardware. Taunton has some books out on hardware and construction. I have the construction one, and it covers different methods. It covers general carcass construction as well as doors, drawers, legs, bases, etc. It is pretty good overall.

 

[jeff...]

You guys are a big help, thanks for the pointers in the right direction. I've got so much to learn and making up these drawers really proved it to me. Yeah there the slides with the nylon wheels, rated @ 100 lbs. It was "well these are on clearance, I'll give em a try" kinda decision.

Think I forgot to post pics - take it easy on me guys :-D

 

[DaveO]

Jeff...that's fine drawer construction, and some mighty pretty wood you used on the sides. I don't see that you have any problems.
Dave

 

[erasmussen]

Thats some fancy drawer joints
They look stong tight and stright to me:eusa_thin

 

[jeff...]

Jeff...that's fine drawer construction, and some mighty pretty wood you used on the sides. I don't see that you have any problems.
Dave

Dave - I'm not all happy with the joints, I know I could do much better :-(. But I will agree with you on the wood - it's some scrap peices of Woodguy's QS sycamore, I milled a few weeks ago. Little Alan gave me the idea, he's right, it does make some real pretty drawer frames. I dried it in electric oven over 5 days @ approx 3/4" rough sawn and it planed down to 1/2" without a problem. That part I'm very happy with :-D. I'm going to be ordering a few books, so I can get a handle on drawer construction, for future projects.

Thanks

 

[Travis Porter]

They look good to me, but to your point of concern, maybe you need to look at joinery instead of just drawer construction. Personally, I do not do as good as I want (probably never will), but the more I do, the better I think I get at it. At least that is what I believe.

As for the slides you got, you got a good price, and they do a good job for what they are designed. They can be a PITA to mount in the carcass, but they work well overall. For those types of slides, I normally like to use false fronts to make it easier to get the fronts aligned and not worry about drawer position. Lastly, your drawers need to be square. If they are not, one side will stick out further than the other, but that applies to all drawers.

 

[jeff...]

Travis, thanks for the reply. Your right it's the joints I'm struggling with, that and what dimension is the drawer in relationship to the opening. The sides I picked up making hanging false fronts difficult. Right before the closed position the drawer lifts up slightly on the slide I guess it's to "lock" the drawer in the closed position, so it won't rattle open on it's own. This makes it a challenge to get the false front flush and evenly spaced in the case without the top of the front rubbing on the upper frame while opening and closing the drawer. I think it got it though, had to create a little more of a gap then I originally wanted to.

Seems every model of drawer slide I've looked at is a little different. I never had this problem when I made my own wooden miter slides. I may just go back to making my own again, it would have been a lot easier.

 

[Travis Porter]

For those slides in particular, I usually use full overlay drawers with these types of slides. Carcass is either face frame or not, doesn't matter. I mount the "front edge" of the slide about 1/16" to an 1/8" back. For inset drawers, it is a bit more difficult, and the drawers do "drop" a bit for the self closing/stay closed feature. One of the features or down sides of these slides when you come down to it.