Gorilla glue

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Anyone out there use this stuff?

It is strong as heck but I can never seem to manage the foaming situation that comes with this glue. I like this stuff a lot but it sure does make a mess for me. Any tips?


New User
No tips on the foam-out, other than masking off the areas you don't want affected. I do use it for oily exotics like Cocobolo. The foam out does scrape off easier than a PVA glue and doesn't leave any residue. I don't think that poly glues will replace PVA glues, but they do have their place. Un-similar materials like wood to metal, hard to glue or oily woods, and wet wood. Just don't get it on your fingers, it can only be removed with time, or the loss of a layer of skin. My .02 Dave:)


Staff member
Corporate Member
I don't like, just for the reasons you said, Alos if there is too much moisture on the wood, them foam is in the joint and the joint is weak.

Only time I iuse it is if I need a long open time.

For dismilar material, I use epoxy (slow drying)


New User
Matt Willis
I used Gorilla Glue on my last project and was not totally psyched due to the foaming and I had a joint break apart on me.

This project I am using Tite Bond II and it is MUCH easier to work with.

Fine Woodworking had a little blurb on glues this month. They said to use Gorilla Glue on really tight joints and something like Tite Bond if there was a bit of a gap (i.e. a mortise and tenon). Reason was the foam is not very strong and will fill a gap with weak material.

It sounds like I am trashing Gorilla Glue and that is not the case. I use it for all sorts of stuff around the house. Just need to know the right tool for the job.

Hope this helps.

Steve D

Steve DeWeese
I just used it for the blast gates I made and it was great for that application because I was joining metal HVAC fittings to MDF and the gap areas filling with foam was a good thing. There were planty of tight areas that received good bonding strength and the foam sealed other areas that would have been air leaks. I also use Titebond II for most waterproof applications. I'll probably try the new III when I finish the gallon of II.


New User
John Colvin
I use polyurathane glues for many repairs. The Gorilla is just a brand name and about the hardest to use. As for moisture, poly glues require moisture to cure. If the joint is sufficiently clamped it makes a far superior joint than titebond II. The better poly glues do have foam out but it is easily flaked off and takes no sanded or scraping to remove. I would not recommend poly glues for every application as PVA glues are fine for most apps. But everyone should have some good poly glue for certian things. Any glue joint that fails is due to insufficient claming, drytime, or some other factor. Glue is always stronger than wood, that is why it works.
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