First Attempt at a bowl and I need some advice.....

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gesiak

John
Corporate Member
I have been playing with turning a bowl. This is the first one that did not blow up... I believe this is maple and has some nice figuring but the end grain is killing me:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead: Also I cant explaining why there is some cracks. Most work is being done with a skew. Still don't have the hang of using one, still getting a catch every now and then


http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/thumbs
/Bowl_Attempt_007.jpg

As you can see from the photos. I cant get the end grain to settle down. I tried thin CA. The staining is from my MM which needs to be cleaned. I plan on trying to clean this up but need some hints on dealing with end grain tear out.

I appreciate your comments, suggestions and critiques.

Thanks

John
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Well to start a skew has very little business being used in bowl turning. I use mine for some small detail work, primarily as a scraper. Skews are best used for spindle work. It all comes down to the grain orientation. Spindle turning has the grain running parallel to the lathe bed. Bowl turning had the grain running perpendicular to the lathe bed. In bowl orientation there are a lot more forces placed on the tool and that is the reason that spindle use tools should be used in limited capacity.
End grain tear-out is a big problem in bowl turning, as you are turning on end-grain 50% of the time. I have not found the best solution yet, but I do find that a sharp bowl gouge will really help as will a good bowl scraper. And never over look the power of the 80-grit gouge. Sandpaper is a tool too. The last bowl I turned was quite spalted and punky and I had to turn to a 40-grit gouge to get rid of the torn fibers.

I think that your form is excellent. Is it hollowed out yet? MM is great but at the greater speeds developed on the outside of a larger diameter bowl you will get too much heat and some melting of the MM (especially if it's foam backed).

I turned my first bowl with a roughing gouge and a round nose scraper. It worked but really wasn't the safest, or most efficient way of going about it. If you don't have a bowl gouge, it's a very useful tool for bowl turning.

MTCW,
Dave:)
 

PChristy

New User
Phillip
Hey John, wish I could help you out with this one - I have some trouble myself when I turn a bowl - I am sure the pros will jump in and help you out with this:icon_thum
 

gesiak

John
Corporate Member
Dave, let me clarify, I shaped the form with a gouge and used the skew to try and clean up the flat areas hoping that may help with end grain and smooth the surface. I started with 120 grit and progressed to 800, the tried the MM. It is not the foam back stuff. I think I'll go get some 80 grit and try sanding again.

I like the shape I have now. I havent hollowed it out yet. I am hoping to get a Baracuda II within the next few weeks an will wait until then to hollow it. This is mostly being done to get a feel for using the various gouges etc....

I appreciate you suggestion.:eek:ccasion1
 

Robert Arrowood

New User
Robert Arrowood
John the bowl looks good so far.I like the form and.As far as the cracks it could be from heat built up from sanding.I was turning a cypress bowl the other day.Bad tear out:BangHead:.Using my 80 grit gouge turned of the lathe and heared a POP:eek:.And there they were 2 hair line cracks:confused_.Yep it got too hot.Thats the only thing I could think of.

If you bowl still had moisture that could have had something to do with it too:dontknow:.
 

CaptnA

Andy
Corporate Member
endgrain is a problem
there isn't always AN answer
light cuts with the sharpest of tools is always the first step
technique/tool angle can affect tear out use the right tool as always

if you are still having issues
you might try wood hardener, sanding sealer, ca or some other means to stabilize the end grain and see if that helps. Understand many of these can discolor your wood.
As mentioned the 60-80 grit chisel can help
but heat - and sanding creates heat- is not your friend.
 
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