End to End Wood Joining

[steviegwood]

Hi Y'all, I have a question for all of you experts. I have an abundance of 5/8" wood with the longest pieces being 32" and the rest and most averaging 18". Can some of you give me some advice on good ways to end join this wood to make some longer more usable lumber? These woods are red oak, hickory and maple if that makes any difference. Thanks for all of the advice in advance. Steve

 

[b4man]

Excellent question. I've seen what I believe are box joints to extend length but I know someone here will steer you in the right direction. I look forward to finding out as well.

Barbara

 

[Tarhead]

You need a board stretcher:gar-Bi
If you have enough width you can cut them in half lengthwise on the diagonal and slide one half until you get the length you need.

Otherwise there are fingerjoint bits, mortise and tenon, floating tenon, and dowel methods. Glued end to end butt joints are very weak.

 

[thrytis]

How about a half lap or tongue and grove with a long tongue?

 

[Gofor]

An 8 to 1 ratio scarf joint will give the strength of the original wood. However, it is hard to cut an accurate flat bevel at an 8:1 slope, and even harder to clamp while gluing. In reality, a stepped lap joint is usually used. For your situation, four 1/8" deep steps, each 1 1/4" wide, will give the right ratio and provide plenty of glue surface for strength. Joining two 18" boards would result in one 31" board (5" overlap for a 5/8" thick board).

A lot of work to stretch the boards, but may be worth it if they are going to be door stiles, frame/panel construction, etc. Do the deepest step first to give the most stable surface for the next cut.

If you are going to use them for face frames, etc, where a lot of end-to-end strength is not important, then a 1" lap joint would probably suffice.

Go

 

[MikeF]

You could also use a finger joint router bit that would give you a lot of surface area for gluing, but is probably not cost effective unless you are joining a lot of boards.

-mike

 

[jmauldin]

I second the fingerjoint router joint. It has plenty of strength, unless, of course it is a load-bearing piece. Most of the pre-stained lumber youbuy today is made of this type of joint. They even make 2x4's this way, and they are straighter that the regular kind. You can get this router bit from a variety of sources - Klingspor, Rockler, Price-Cutter and others.
Jim in Mayberry

 

[merrill77]

I would think a bridle joint would be the easiest way. The finger joint will give you more glue surface, but I doubt that will be a problem. Unless of course it is a load-bearing piece...in which case you probably shouldn't do this at all. I'd be curious to know if anyone has successfully used this technique as a substitute for the very expensive board-stretcher?

 

[Dutchman]

Since it's only 5/8 thick, I just miter the two edges and glue it together. THen laminate two pieces together if you need something stronger. You'll only have your time in it since you already have the wood. Most finger jointed panels are put togther and then planed to smooth up the joint.

 

[MrAudio815]

A finger joint will work well, and so will mortise and tenon, floating tenon, and dowel methods.

You could also try:

Or any of these

Or this.

Welp hope you find what you are looking for!

Sincerely,

 

[jeff...]

I usually hook up one end to something secure and the other to something that will pull, the result is not pretty but I have to prefect my board stretcher. I got the idea because I cut twice and it's still to short.

 

[Glennbear]

Thanks for posing the question Steve, as you well know my wood stash has similar issues :gar-La;

 

[Charles M]

Hi Y'all, I have a question for all of you experts. I have an abundance of 5/8" wood with the longest pieces being 32" and the rest and most averaging 18". Can some of you give me some advice on good ways to end join this wood to make some longer more usable lumber? These woods are red oak, hickory and maple if that makes any difference. Thanks for all of the advice in advance. Steve

Steve,

The answer depends on the amount of strength you require from the joint. Obviously a butt joint is the simplest but is also the weakest. A scarf joint (mating bevels on the ends) is only slightly better in strength but is easier to disguise. Dowels, biscuits or loose tenons can be used and are somewhat strong. The finger joint is the king of end to end joints because of the incredible amount of glue area and the shape of the joint tends to not be obvious:

 

[Outa Square]

Depending upon the width i would use it for panels for doors, cabinets, and chest. If they are smaller you'll just need more stiles and rails.

With it being 5/8" you could glue 2 boards face to face overlap the joints so you could come up with something longer and use as many pieces that you need. If they already planed and jointed that should take much more than glue, lots of clamps, and lots of time.