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ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
At 8" diameter you may find it cheaper to use actual steel DC duct options as 8" PVC is generally very expensive ($7-10/ft, excluding fittings from a quick search) as it is not used in nearly the same volume as 4" and 6" PVC pipe (which are used more widely in residential and light commercial construction). Even 8" PVC HVAC duct pipe is pretty pricey from some quick searches online ($6-8/ft), but should be less costly, on average, I would suspect than typical schedule 40 plumbing pipe. Either way, though, the cost of 8" PVC fittings will be very painful at upwards of $60-150 each, though couplings don't look too bad at around $20 each.

But at such prices I would definitely investigate traditional steel DC ducting options before deciding upon PVC, especially if there will be any long runs or you will need a number of fittings and reducers (which will likely represent your greatest cost).

However, before reducing an 8" line down to 4" at the far end you will need to do some calculations to verify that your air velocity does not drop too low in the 8" line due to the restricted air volume possible with only a 4" inlet. If the air velocity in your 8" line drops too low then the heavier waste will drop out of the airstream within your 8" ductwork leading to regular clogging of the line. You may find that it makes more sense to either use a 6" main run or to ensure that there are always multiple outlets open (specifically, any extra open outlets should be upstream of the 8" duct section where you are introducing waste). An 8" duct has about twice the cross sectional area of a 6" pipe and about four times that of a 4" pipe, hence the reason air velocity can drop dramatically in the 8" line as the 4" restricted intake has to expand in volume to fill the new volume of 8" line.
 

Jeremy Scuteri

Moderator
Jeremy
...However, before reducing an 8" line down to 4" at the far end you will need to do some calculations to verify that your air velocity does not drop too low in the 8" line due to the restricted air volume possible with only a 4" inlet.

I had the same thought.
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Hello Ethan, it's been a while. How are things nowadays?


This is what I found first for metal ducting: Grizzly
It's actually about $8- $10 cheaper on Zoro.com with their 20% off codes.

I just found this website: BlastgateCo
It looks much more reasonable in pricing, especially the fittings.

What would you recommend I do instead of 8" most of the way & 4" to machines? Gradual? 8" to 6" to 4"?
Or just go 8" from machine to 6" pipe most of the way to 4" to machines?


I'll need at least a 25' run, with 2 Y fittings in between & a 90 degree turn at the end with another Y fitting (3rd one) dropping down for my router table & possibly my small bandsaw & Ridgid edge sander.

The first Y fitting will run to my jointer, tablesaw, planer, chop saw, drum sander, lathe, & belt sander/disc sander combo.
The 2nd Y will run to my CNC only.

Any additional thoughts? Thanks guys.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
A couple more sources for metal pipe and fittings.
https://oneida-air.com/
https://www.pennstateind.com/store/economy-ductwork.html

My cyclone has an 8" inlet. I used 8" pipe (including 2 90 degree elbows to get up to the ceiling and over the door) for about 5 feet, to the first transition. From there I ran 6" as close to each machine as I could get. The miter saw hood and router table both have 6" connections. The rest of the machines are connected with 4" flex from the machine to a 4" to 6" adapter.
Garage-Shop 280.JPG

I have one 4" blast gate that stays open all the time, then I open the blast gate at each machine as it is being used.
 

Jeremy Scuteri

Moderator
Jeremy
A couple more sources for metal pipe and fittings.
https://oneida-air.com/
https://www.pennstateind.com/store/economy-ductwork.html

My cyclone has an 8" inlet. I used 8" pipe (including 2 90 degree elbows to get up to the ceiling and over the door) for about 5 feet, to the first transition. From there I ran 6" as close to each machine as I could get. The miter saw hood and router table both have 6" connections. The rest of the machines are connected with 4" flex from the machine to a 4" to 6" adapter.
View attachment 22548

I have one 4" blast gate that stays open all the time, then I open the blast gate at each machine as it is being used.

Mark,
What model is that? Looks like a Super Dust Gorilla. I have the 2.5HP one and it has a 7" inlet. Just curious.
 

McRabbet

Rob
Corporate Member
Just because your woodworking machines come with a 4" dust collection port, you aren't obligated to use them. I have made 6" ports that allow much better airflow and avoid the velocity losses outlined above. Easy to make in either metal or PVC.
 

bobsmodels

Bob
Senior User
Hi

I have a 5hp with 8" inlet. I ran an 8" main trunk diagonally across the shop and took 6" feeds to table saw (made new inlet), bandsaw, planer, and jointer. I ran a 8" branch to the miter saw for max air flow. System has been in since last may and working well. I used all metal duct to each tool except the bandsaw which has about 12" of flex to the base plus 3' to blade and the overblade pickup on the table saw which has about 2' of flex. See pics. I have a complete writup in the library. I usually leave the 6" to the table saw open all the time.

Bob
 

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MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Hi

I have a 5hp with 8" inlet. I ran an 8" main trunk diagonally across the shop and took 6" feeds to table saw (made new inlet), bandsaw, planer, and jointer. I ran a 8" branch to the miter saw for max air flow. System has been in since last may and working well. I used all metal duct to each tool except the bandsaw which has about 12" of flex to the base plus 3' to blade and the overblade pickup on the table saw which has about 2' of flex. See pics. I have a complete writup in the library. I usually leave the 6" to the table saw open all the time.

Bob

That's a nice setup. :thumbs_up You even made use of the packing box from the DC.
 
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