CA or Epoxy Grain Filling on Flat Stuff?

[Tarhead]

I know CA is used on Pens as a finish but does anyone have any experience using it or Epoxy on flat things for grain filling? The topic came up in a discussion and the technique seemed too simple. Round off the corners of a straight edge razor blade and use it as a squeegee to work the stuff into the pores. How much was also addressed and the amount appeared to be very little...like a teaspoon spread over an acoustic guitar back.

Any advice? I'm looking for a flat finish on some Mahogany and this seemed too easy.

Thanks!

 

[JohnW]

Mark, I've used high solids grain fillers and epoxy applied as you describe... and results with both were good. The epoxy was easier to apply because it filled better and faster (less coats)

We must have read about the same technique becasue I got the idea of using epoxy for filler from a guitar forum and then spoke with a few builders that use it..and like the results. I've done a guitar back and a gun stock with epoxy and would recommend it. I used System III ??? :icon_scra I think that was the name. It's not cheap.

John W

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Mark,

Here's a tip I got via email just this week about filling endgrain with CA before finishing....

http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/resource/GluingTechniques/SealEndGrain/index.html

Travis

 

[Tarhead]

Thanks for the comments. I wish I had some scrap to experiment on but this will be going on one of the Grizzly $24 Ukulele kits and they come pre-assembled mostly. Have to try it on a scrap of Luan plywood which is the closest thing to the wood they use that I have. I have some 50 minute Epoxy and some thick CA. We'll see which works out best. Will also use Tru-Oil over this as my final finish. It's the current hot thing for diy Ukuleles.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

Let us know what you think about the kit. I've been eyeing one of those....

Travis

 

[Gofor]

Have never used either as a grain filler. I have used epoxy for knots, splits, etc. The one drawback on epoxy is that is will cure much harder than the wood, so getting any excess off before it fully cures is a must. As to the time for doing this, I can only reference the 5 min type, which sets in 5 min, but is about the right consistency to shave off at about the 10 - 15 min time frame. After that it is too hard. With the slow cure, I would try it at about the 1 1/2 hour mark and then at 15 min intervals thereafter until I found the "sweet spot".

Sanding it down after it cures if left heavy will probably dish out the surrounding wood before the epoxy is leveled.

I think I would try the CA first. If you get it to work on a softer wood, like pine or the luan, etc, it should be a piece of cake on whatever the Ukulele species is. Both will probably reduce penetration of the finish in any saturated wood. Epoxy does not penetrate very deep into walnut (the only thing I have used it on) but don't know on other species.

JMTCW

Go

 

[Jeff]

I've used it for filling knots and cracks, but not as a "filler" in the way that you've described. West epoxy products provide a full range of options for open and working time which may be better suited to your needs.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

You might find some useful working tips here:

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/search-results/?cx=000283373311322128952:ob2ws82pick&cof=FORID:11

A sharp chisel and a card scraper work well for the initial smoothing without gouging and scouring the surrounding wood.

 

[Tarhead]

Just found this series of videos that shows what I'm talking about:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYHxMg7n9cI
He uses a 6" window squeegee with a short thick rubber blade and Zpoxy Finishing Resin.
http://www.supergluecorp.com/zap/z-poxy-line/zap-z-poxy-finishing-resin
I'll learn on the cheap kit before I graduate to more advanced stuff.