That is an impressive machine to say the least!
Best Jointer and Best Planer?
- Thread starter BeamK9
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That is an impressive machine to say the least!
Travis, I finally got around to putting it to use today. I had to change the plug and fit the dust collection to my system. The dust ports are a strange size, so a bit of adapting was needed. What a machine. The ease that it works with is impressive, and the power it very good. Making a board square is no problem at all. No fighting anymore. Well worth the investment. Will post pictures soon...MK
It is a funny dust collection size. I have a MM24 Bandsaw and I could barely get a 4" pipe to fit it. They do make nice equipment, that is for sure. How hard is the change over? Pretty quick to switch?
There are different systems - Tersa, Dispoz-A-Blade to name a few. Basically, there's a holder that's set in the cutterhead at the right height, and the knife is inserted into the holder. Most lunchbox planers work this way too.
The helical head with carbide inserts is different altogether. Here's the one from Grizzly. It shears the wood rather than cutting it. It costs a bit more, but you save money on knives. If you can't spend the money now, consider buying a machine that has an upgrade option later.
Don't let Bas fool you...he's sticking with the argument he used to justify that new J/P! :gar-La; :gar-La;
Setting straight blade jointer knives is not rocket science. I don't like doing it but it's something that needs to be done every now and then.
I use the stick method now. http://woodworkerszone.com/wiki/index.php?title=Jointer_Blade_Alignment
I have used a dial indicator but find the stick to be close enough to work very well. I always bump the outfeed down slightly before starting then tap it back up to set final table reference after completion. ie, once all knives are adjusted, edge joint a stick.
Lay the jointed edge down on you flat jointer table and look at the end of the stick - the last part to pass over the cutterhead. If there is a raised area then raise the outfeed table. Repeat until the gap is minimal.
Some would say make the knives dead even with the top plane of the outfeed table but this will give you fits trying to joint long, heavy stock. Set the blade height just a smidge above the outfeed. If the stock appears to be hanging as you feed it across the blades then the outfeed table is too high and should be adjusted down a little. Once set it shouldn't need to be moved until you replace the knives again.
Now, if you're in the camp that argues over the need to have jointer table top surfaces flat to within .ooo1 inches then you can buy a gauge/jig to help you set the knives.
I like your thinking on the big jointer. Really I wish I had a 12 inch jointer, mine is 8. I have a 15 inch planer and it suits my needs just fine. The 12 inch jointer has long, wide tables that help support LONG stock...very nice.
All this is not meant to advocate flat blades. I wish I had a Byrd style head in my jointer and one day I just might. They are well worth the cash... if you have the cash. Not because they are easier to set blades but because of superior performance and reduced tearout.
Chuck
Butch,
Bridgewood was the premium housebrand of Wilkie Tools, York, PA until a few years ago. They discontinued their house brands at the beginning of the slowdown but are still in business and still support their products. Really good people and the Bridgewood line was built for their industrial customers. Higher spec (and higher cost) than Grizzly...some with American motors. These were built to last a long time.
I've prided myself as somewhat of an enabler here so I'm going to break stride and suggest you consider something a little less robust and expensive than what you are looking at considering your space/electrical/experience situation. You are not alone with your electrical and space issues. If you did a survey of this and the other Woodworking sites I bet the most popular planer would be the DW735 Dewalt. It's not made for a commercial shop and definitely can't hog off 1/8" from 1 X 16 foot boards all day long but for the home woodworker you really can't beat them. It's what I've used for a long time. For what I and most everyone here do it works great. 110 volt/15 amps and fits on a tablesaw extension when you need it and tucks out of the way the 90.% of the time you don't use it. If you want helical carbide inserts you can get a head for it too. Aftermarket carbide and HSS blades are available
I would also say that most of the members either have or wish they had an 8 inch jointer. Rarely do I exceed 8in in width in rough stock but almost every project takes advantage of the extra length of the infeed bed which you get with the wider jointers. I have a Shopfox 1741 which has been excellent from a function standpoint but the original motor died about a year into ownership. Shopfox has a standard 2 year warranty and replaced the motor with me doing some simple diagnostic work over the phone. Again...110volt/15amp is an option. Jointers are pretty simple machines. Clean/precise machining, strong casting and smooth/precise infeed bed movement are the most important things to look for. Rick at Woodworking Source in Mooresville is a dealer for Shopfox and is a good guy.
Okay, if you've read this far here is where you can get to where you're heading with your big 'arn dream shop. DW735 planers and 8" jointers last for about 2 days in our classified section and are easy to sell when you settle in your destination/dream shop with space/power/dust collection/lumber storage/ceiling height/lighting/HVAC/etc. needs met and ready to upgrade your equipment.
If you absotively can't wait I would sit down with the Grizzly shop planner and do a layout of your current space and see if you can physically get the equipment in the space. Working outside with big stuff ain't going to cut it for very long in my opinion. You also want to make friends with an electrician and see if you have capacity in your current panel to add some dedicated 220 lines. I would add at least 2, 30 amp 220 lines with a few outlets on each. Make sure your circuit for lighting is dedicated so you don't have deal with stumbling around in the dark when you pop a breaker. What are you plans for dust collection?
I'm off this week if you want to get together for a cup of coffee. Shoot me a PM. I'm right around the corner.
Mark
Bridgewood was the premium housebrand of Wilkie Tools, York, PA until a few years ago. They discontinued their house brands at the beginning of the slowdown but are still in business and still support their products. Really good people and the Bridgewood line was built for their industrial customers. Higher spec (and higher cost) than Grizzly...some with American motors. These were built to last a long time.
I've prided myself as somewhat of an enabler here so I'm going to break stride and suggest you consider something a little less robust and expensive than what you are looking at considering your space/electrical/experience situation. You are not alone with your electrical and space issues. If you did a survey of this and the other Woodworking sites I bet the most popular planer would be the DW735 Dewalt. It's not made for a commercial shop and definitely can't hog off 1/8" from 1 X 16 foot boards all day long but for the home woodworker you really can't beat them. It's what I've used for a long time. For what I and most everyone here do it works great. 110 volt/15 amps and fits on a tablesaw extension when you need it and tucks out of the way the 90.% of the time you don't use it. If you want helical carbide inserts you can get a head for it too. Aftermarket carbide and HSS blades are available
I would also say that most of the members either have or wish they had an 8 inch jointer. Rarely do I exceed 8in in width in rough stock but almost every project takes advantage of the extra length of the infeed bed which you get with the wider jointers. I have a Shopfox 1741 which has been excellent from a function standpoint but the original motor died about a year into ownership. Shopfox has a standard 2 year warranty and replaced the motor with me doing some simple diagnostic work over the phone. Again...110volt/15amp is an option. Jointers are pretty simple machines. Clean/precise machining, strong casting and smooth/precise infeed bed movement are the most important things to look for. Rick at Woodworking Source in Mooresville is a dealer for Shopfox and is a good guy.
Okay, if you've read this far here is where you can get to where you're heading with your big 'arn dream shop. DW735 planers and 8" jointers last for about 2 days in our classified section and are easy to sell when you settle in your destination/dream shop with space/power/dust collection/lumber storage/ceiling height/lighting/HVAC/etc. needs met and ready to upgrade your equipment.
If you absotively can't wait I would sit down with the Grizzly shop planner and do a layout of your current space and see if you can physically get the equipment in the space. Working outside with big stuff ain't going to cut it for very long in my opinion. You also want to make friends with an electrician and see if you have capacity in your current panel to add some dedicated 220 lines. I would add at least 2, 30 amp 220 lines with a few outlets on each. Make sure your circuit for lighting is dedicated so you don't have deal with stumbling around in the dark when you pop a breaker. What are you plans for dust collection?
I'm off this week if you want to get together for a cup of coffee. Shoot me a PM. I'm right around the corner.
Mark
I WANT that Bridgewood...bad...just need a bigger shop for it.
Chuck (the guy who wants to know what it feels like to face joint on a carrier deck)
Travis,
You really are a redneck, aren't you ? Those little girls will give you some class, sooner or later. :no:
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