Bench thickness and hold fasts?

[Kicbak]

I'm still working on my bench and I'm getting ready to do the top. I am planning on 3/4" dog holes on a bench that is around 1" thick. Since the hold fast wedges in, is 1" thick enough for that to happen? Also do I buy a 3/4" hold fast for 3/4" hole, or are they 1/16" or something smaller?

Wes

 

[bluthart]

The hold fasts SHOULD state the minimum thickness to make them hold. I think most work with 2" or thicker.

 

[bluedawg76]

should be a very snug fit in the doghole. round or square? metal or wood? the thicker the better for the top. why not 2" thick (or more)? wood dogs are easy enough to make (and easy on your tools when they crash into them),

-Sam

 

[Kicbak]

I'm building a knockdown workbench that I hopefully will take to Amsterdam when we moved.
The bench needs to be lighter and smaller then a stationary bench. I think I will glue a SYP 2x4 under the top. This will line up with the holes to thicken that area of the bench.

 

[CarvedTones]

If looking slightly non traditional doesn't bother you, you can use a holdfast in a thinner table by epoxying in a metal collar (cut piece of pipe). The problem is that the holdfast will "wallow" out the hole bigger. I have the cheap import holdfasts and I think I had to make the hole a little bigger. I will measure tonight.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

The best holdfasts out there are the expensive, special order, forged ones Roy Underhill uses or the "slightly" more reasonably-priced formed wire ones by Gramercy, sold by Tools for Working Wood. The TFWW website says the Gramercy holdfast is designed for a 3/4" hole in a workbench top that is 1-3/4" or thicker for a 6 1/2" reach. The maximum clamping is 7-1/4" in a 2" thick bench top. You really don't want a snug hole- that makes it hard to get the holdfast out- mine are an easy, loose fit in the 3/4" dog holes like the one in first pic below from the TFWW website.

I have a set. They are great and will last a lifetime! They hold very well but are easy to remove from my 2" (2-1/2"?) thick maple top. They will never bend or break like the cheaper, cast ones may (read what TFWW says about holdfasts). When not in use I stow them in apron holes:

I just used an electric hand drill and a shopmade drill guide to keep it vertical to make my dog holes. Before you start drilling spend some time working on the dog hole layout- so you avoid putting them over base supports, vise mechanism, etc. It is hard to tell from the pic above, but I also used a router and chamfer bit with bearing to put a slight chamfer on the top rim of the dog holes to keep them looking nice. It had no effect on holdfast grip.

 

[kooshball]

Not quite a hold fast but the surface clamp from Lee Valley is worth a look as it can work in shallow dog holes.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=57059&cat=1,41637

I have one of these and can say that it is awesome.

 

[NCPete]

How about maaking a knockdown Roubo bench like Roy Underhill has. Nice mass to it, and it comes apart easily for your move. Additionally, it will gain a greater air of authenticity among your future European woodworking friends!

 

[Kicbak]

The Gramercy holdfast look good. I emailed Peter Ross, so I may have him forge a pair instead, haven't heard back from him yet.

My benchtop is a bit lighter then the solid roubo style. I did make sliding dovetails for the legs into the top frame, not the puzzle dovetails as my legs are perpendicular.

Just came up to answer posts while the glue dries for the top.