Working with laminate

[Kelly]

I need several panels for an outfeed table and table extension. I prefer laminate over MDF, but I cannot find it, so I guess I will make it. I can buy sheets of laminate from Lowe’s and MDF from the Hardwood Store. I have a few questions.
1) Should I use contact cement?

2) Should the laminate be counter-balanced and applied to both sides ?

3) If I try to cut the sheet on my tablesaw, will it splinter badly ?

Any other tips for working with this stuff?
Anybody know of a source for these panels so I don’t have to make them ?

 

[Gotcha6]

I've never had any success with cutting basic laminate using a circular saw blade of any kind. On a TS it tends to slip under the fence and it also tends to shatter and split under these stresses.
After it is applied to its substrate it's fairly easy. Better to cut it with a flush cutting carbide bit and a straightedge as this is the preferred method used in the field by professionals. BITD, installers would apply counter top edges with a flush cutting bit and then apply the top with a 15 degree bevel bit to give a bit of edge relief, but a hand file can do the same thing.
Contact cement is the preferred method of adhesion either by spray, brush, or trowel with small notches.
If using over MDF you would be better served by sealing the underside and unfinished edges with a compatible paint or laminate finish if you are talking about using in a typical shop setting with varying humidity. Also, MDF has a tendency to attract mold when not sealed in that application (AMHIKT).
Hope this helps.

 

[EricS]

I have laid up hundred of sheets of laminate and I would suggest you cut the laminate oversized and trim with a 1/4” laminate bit after it has been lauded up and rolled out. I have always used commercial grad adhesive (Wilsonart) but something like Super 99 or Super 77 will work. It would be good to put a skin on the opposite side to balance the sheet. I used a triple chip blade when cutting laminate to reduce the chipping.
You could try a cabinet shop for pre laminated panels, they may be pricey but will save you a bunch of time and labor.

 

[mike_wood]

I am no expert but have laminated several large work tops/outfeed tables with no problem. I cut to rough size on my table saw with a melamine/plywood blade with almost no chipping. I clamp a straight board to the fence to prevent the laminate from sliding under it. If the laminate has been rolled I put a 2x4 or something like that on each side of the cut well away from the blade to keep it flat. As others have said using a flush trim bit to finish off will neaten up the project.

Getting the glue even on both surfaces was a problem until I came across a roller at the BORG that, I think, is intended to put on a textured surface on a ceiling. It has a rubber surface not fuzzy like a regular paint roller. Makes it easy to put on an even coat. I know someone makes a roller especially for contact cement but I found this one works fine and cost a few bucks. I use whatever glue is available at the BORG and have never had a problem. All the tops I have made have been plywood & I have never done both sides. Can't see why as I used plywood and it is stable. Also I have a conditioned shop and don't get big swings in temp/humidity. Laminate at the BORG is expensive especially if you do both sides.

Check CL and FB market place for laminate. I bought a 3x8' piece on CL last year for $5.

 

[bob vaughan]

On a TS it tends to slip under the fence and it also tends to shatter and split under these stresses.

I've found that if I take a long plywood strip (4" x 48"±) and clamp it to the fence, this helps. Set the width with the strip lightly clamped in place with three or four good c-clamps. Loosen the clamps and push the strip hard down on the table and re-clamp. Laminate can't get under that.

 

[Wilsoncb]

I’m with @EricS cut your sheets prior to gluing. I use a track saw with zero chippout. Just lay the laminate on some hard foam insulation to support it. Table saw works fine once you get manageable size pieces. Lay some Masonite over the blade or use zero clearance insert. Masonite keeps the laminate above the crack between the fence and table.

 

[bob vaughan]

A tip I learned was to never use a light, bright color for a work top (such as white). The glare can make the pupils contract and slightly blurs detail.

 

[Rwe2156]

I've used a product called Panolam for things like this. Its a double sided laminate over ply. With the price of laminate today, it might be worth checking into.

 

[pop-pop]

I use this doodad to cut laminate. Methinks it was from Klingspor back when the store was on Capital Blvd.

 

[Gotcha6]

I've found that if I take a long plywood strip (4" x 48"±) and clamp it to the fence, this helps. Set the width with the strip lightly clamped in place with three or four good c-clamps. Loosen the clamps and push the strip hard down on the table and re-clamp. Laminate can't get under that.

I've had success too using a piece of metal stud track channel attached to the fence with the flanges facing the blade to avoid sliding under the fence but didn't mention it here because most people may not have access to this material.

 

[golfdad]

Good ideas there folks. I have also cut it on a table saw. Putting painters tape on the cut line eliminates splinters.

 

[golfdad]

Good ideas there folks. I have also cut it on a table saw. Putting painters tape on the cut line eliminates splinters.