Woodguy- need info

[DavidF]

Hi WG, I really like the design of these doors, but was interested in the stile to top rail inner corner detail. What's the story there, how were they done, any other pics?

 

[woodguy1975]

The joints are just a cope and stick that is modified for glass doors. The top rail actually has a groove run just like a normal cope and stick. The other components have a rabbet by swapping one of the cutters with one of the bearings in the set and running the profiles. The result is a dado for the back of the rail joints and just a profile for the cope joint. I do this for all my glass doors. The top rail was just bandsawn and sanded before profiling. The glass is actually acrylic that is cut to match the curve.

Does that help? I'll look and see if I have any other pics.

Thanks,

John

I think you can kind of see it here in this pic.

BTW, I describe the glass panel conversion of a cope and stick set on this page.

 

[DavidF]

Thanks John, I was interested in the mitre between the top rail and the stile. I have never used a rail/stile router set to produce a door. I normally cut in the traditional way. IIRC on a square corner with a router set the moulding does not normally produce a mitre. If I was doing that door my old way I would need to cut the mitres by hand.

 

[woodguy1975]

I've done doors that way too, but never with an arched top. You'd just need to approximate the angle change from the arch and compensate in the bevel setting on the TS when you cut the miter on the molding. It probably changes the cut from a 90 degree to a 95 degree corner.... At least that would be my first guess.

John

 

[DavidF]

On these doors of yours is the moulding an applied moulding not a "stuck" moulding (in the solid), if so that answers my question. On some of the long case clocks I have built with Arch top doors I have done door frames with the moulding cut in the solid and then cut the mitres with the very old method of using a chisel mitre block. The arch makes life difficult. I was wondering if you had come up with a better way to do this with moulding worked in the solid.

 

[woodguy1975]

I've always done mine with solid molding. By far the easiest way to handle thins is get a cope and stick set and do my modification. Definitely strong enough for a cabinet door.

 

[michaelgarner]

Those are some nice doors bro, I will have to make some quality doors like that for my shop. I'm sure it helps when potential customers come into your shop.