What method do you use to sharpen your hand tools?
- Thread starter MikeH
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Veritas MKII honing jig with sharpening stones. Works great and takes the guess work out of it.
Spiderco ceramic stones and leather stroop using Paul Sellers' methods: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6ykVzL2VAM&feature=youtube_gdata_player
DMT diamond plates, 220 extra coarse, 600 fine, and translucent extra fine Arkansas stone. These are actually the same type diamond stones Paul used in his video. Except for the Arkansas, I use it because someone gave it to me and I like the way it works.
Good video, pretty much what I do, maybe a little less convex. Too much convex can cause problems in a bevel down tool.
I don't always strop, don't seem to need it. My tools shave coming off the Arkansas.
I follow Chris Schwarz's advice, (did long before he published it) coarse, med, fine and get back to work. No need to use a lot of pressure, if you have to press that hard go to a coarser stone or to the bench grinder.
Same technique works with any stone, diamond is just faster and won't wear out as fast.
If you use sandpaper or a leather strop remember to press on the pulling stroke only or you will cut your paper/leather.
Finally, if you hone on the fine or strop only quite often then your tools never get dull enough to need the coarse stone. Most of us get involved and forget, so... grain of salt.
Good video, pretty much what I do, maybe a little less convex. Too much convex can cause problems in a bevel down tool.
I don't always strop, don't seem to need it. My tools shave coming off the Arkansas.
I follow Chris Schwarz's advice, (did long before he published it) coarse, med, fine and get back to work. No need to use a lot of pressure, if you have to press that hard go to a coarser stone or to the bench grinder.
Same technique works with any stone, diamond is just faster and won't wear out as fast.
If you use sandpaper or a leather strop remember to press on the pulling stroke only or you will cut your paper/leather.
Finally, if you hone on the fine or strop only quite often then your tools never get dull enough to need the coarse stone. Most of us get involved and forget, so... grain of salt.
Three DMT diamond plates (220, 600, 1200) and a strip of leather coated w/ aluminum oxide paste to strop. I don't always use the 220 unless I need to repair a nick or refine the bevel. Occasionally, but not often, I'll go to the grinding wheels.
Like Mike said, if you'll take a minute while you're working to just do a quick hone, it's a lot easier than waiting until the tool get's too dull to use.
Bill
Like Mike said, if you'll take a minute while you're working to just do a quick hone, it's a lot easier than waiting until the tool get's too dull to use.
Bill
I have two systems. One for the chisels that go to a job site and some how come back with major nicks and the other for my shop chisels that I am much more careful with. The job chisels typically need a quick tune up on the grinder and then the Work Sharp 3000. For my shop tools I use a 600 and 1200 diamond plate followed by a very fine Arkansas stone and then hone with green polishing compound on a piece of mdf. I used to use a leather strop but think the softness tends to roll the edge so I shifted to mdf with good results
Plane irons and straight chisels - I get my best results using a Veritas honing guide and 2 - 3 grades of diamond "stone". Sometimes I follow it up with some really fine paper glued to a fake stone tile that is dead flat. I went through a phase of using the WorkSharp a lot, but now I mostly use that only for tools that need the bevel reshaped. Gouges I use a wet slip stone on. Knives get the diamond stone treatment except the hook blades which get the slip stone and or ceramic cone. Mike's tools are generally sharper than mine, BTW...
Oops I forgot to mention the grinder is an important part of my routine as well. Without a hollow grind sharpening takes longer. Especially if you need to reshape an edge!
And by the way did that hard arkansas stone come from me? If so I didn't think it cut that fast... I hope I can make it to your hand plane workshop so I can bring my spyderco to compare.
Salem
And by the way did that hard arkansas stone come from me? If so I didn't think it cut that fast... I hope I can make it to your hand plane workshop so I can bring my spyderco to compare.
Salem
I just use sandpaper (80 only if it's really nicked, 120, 220, 320, 600 and 1500) with a little bit of water on it for lubrication and I use a piece of granite for a flat surface.
I go the WS3000 with plane irons and chisels.4 6" DMT stones and 5 of the smaller DMTs for knives,a couple pieces of pvc board with 1000,1200 and 1500 grit glued to it. .Got quite a few friends who I sharpen for.The smaller stone kits were from a generous member here.Thanks.
Tony
Tony
DMT give the best ROI, cost a bit to start but I'm on the tenth year of my 600 and second year of my 220. Both work as well as new.
Won't break, warp or dish. Amazon usually have the best price.
Salem, I believe that Arkansas did come from you. It was a pony express special so I couldn't make the mental connection.
Won't break, warp or dish. Amazon usually have the best price.
Salem, I believe that Arkansas did come from you. It was a pony express special so I couldn't make the mental connection.
.
Since I use it as the final polishing stone it doesn't have to cut very fast. Works great! Thanks.
Mike do you have a good source for DMT?
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