Walnut Slab

Status
Not open for further replies.

Bugle

Preston
Corporate Member
I was GIVEN a beautiful black walnut slab (I do get lucky sometimes). I built a router sled (thanks for the advice and link Jeff) and bought a planing bit (good recommendation from Zach) and flattened it pretty well. It was fairly warped so I took probably 3/8" off the entire piece but it's still around 1 1/4" thick. I filled the large cracks with epoxy blackened with artist's acrylic paint.

I plan on turning it into a bar for our screened in porch. Not sure what I am going to do about legs yet, but I don't want something that will take away from the beauty of the walnut. My son suggested painted galvanized pipe, but he's an engineer and likes the industrial look :gar-Bi...although it would match our wrought iron furniture. All suggestions are very welcome.

My question for the experts here concerns finish. Since it will be exposed to the elements somewhat (no direct sunlight), I am considering Waterlox Original satin with Waterlox gloss for the final coat(s). Opinions?

It's 63" long and 36" wide at the widest end, 26" at the other end. Very dry...between 5% and 6%.

Here's what is looks like currently sanded to 180 grit (I'll go to 320).

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • Walnut slab1.jpg
    Walnut slab1.jpg
    308.5 KB · Views: 529

danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
My question for the experts here concerns finish. Since it will be exposed to the elements somewhat (no direct sunlight), I am considering Waterlox Original satin with Waterlox gloss for the final coat(s). Opinions?

Hopefully not in that order. Satin as base coat gloss as final coat.

Any varnish with silica to knock down the shine will decrease the adhesion of varnish. If you want Gloss put all the coats down clear and scuff between coats. Some folks like the gloss to be cut back and opt for a top coat of satin or Semi gloss while others save money and rub out the gloss with steel wood of scotch-brite pads. Choices.

Choice of Varnish:
I like Waterlox its good stuff. If I were putting that walnut in the elements it would not be Waterlox it would be a slow varnish like Epifanes. This stuff is not cheap but as many wooden boat owners know.. this is the varnish for the bright work.

I used some old Waterlox I had sitting around to finish out my shop doors. Lots of sun and elements. Its looking like a little scraping and painting this year.

DSC07167.JPG



1-snow_jan_2018_015.JPG


See what others have to say but that's my 2 cents during a lunch break.

P004_128_001_002_LRG.jpg


 

Wyatt Co.

New User
Bill
+1 on the varnish.

I also like the idea of metal legs. Even if the pipe thing doesn't float your boat, there are lots of premaid iron legs and frames that may catch your eye.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
I plan on turning it into a bar for our screened in porch.

Since it will be exposed to the elements somewhat ​(no direct sunlight), I am considering Waterlox Original satin with Waterlox gloss for the final coat(s). Opinions?
Use a different Waterlox product instead of the Original Sealer/Finish (indoor use only).

Waterlox Marine Finish or +1 to Epifanes marine spar varnish. Both are excellent for outdoor use.

https://www.waterlox.com/marine

https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=92
 

scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
I was GIVEN a beautiful black walnut slab (I do get lucky sometimes). I built a router sled (thanks for the advice and link Jeff) and bought a planing bit (good recommendation from Zach) and flattened it pretty well. It was fairly warped so I took probably 3/8" off the entire piece but it's still around 1 1/4" thick. I filled the large cracks with epoxy blackened with artist's acrylic paint.

I plan on turning it into a bar for our screened in porch. Not sure what I am going to do about legs yet, but I don't want something that will take away from the beauty of the walnut. My son suggested painted galvanized pipe, but he's an engineer and likes the industrial look :gar-Bi...although it would match our wrought iron furniture. All suggestions are very welcome.

My question for the experts here concerns finish. Since it will be exposed to the elements somewhat (no direct sunlight), I am considering Waterlox Original satin with Waterlox gloss for the final coat(s). Opinions?

It's 63" long and 36" wide at the widest end, 26" at the other end. Very dry...between 5% and 6%.

Here's what is looks like currently sanded to 180 grit (I'll go to 320).

attachment.php

I too would not use Waterlox for your application. Epifanes has a great reputation, but it's forumla is pretty old and there has been a tremendous amount of R&D Investment made in the past 20 years in finish technology.

Modern, high quality exterior finishes such as General Finishes Exterior 450 would be high on my list.

One thing that is extremely important to do with that slab is to finish all sides with the same number of coats (and thickness) of finish. If you don't, it will move significantly.
 

danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
General Finishes Exterior 450

OK maybe this is the better choice ?? Tried and True -- not so fast. The guys I know from the coast of New England weren't familiar with the GF product but both said-- DO NOT USE THE WATER BASE stuff.

They said they tried several water based varnish products and they don't flow out and they don't stand up to the weather.

I will try the GW 450 just for the price appeal. I'll be doing some exterior varnish work on a Thistle and some varnishing around the shop this Spring. I'll report back when the time comes. Another nice thing about the GF 450 is its on Amazon Prime. OK a little change for the forum. 'Nuf said.

Here are 2 hulls finished with Epifanes. The Thistle in crossbanded veneer and the Bluejay with mahogany brightwork done in Epifanes. I have use a little extra oil in the varnish to get the flow out like you see on the thistle. This was done with a badger hair brush only.

The hull I did last year looks much better than this one below. For anyone who has sailed this boat its super light and tender as can be. Its also fast.

attachment.php


attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0703-1024.JPG
    IMG_0703-1024.JPG
    145.5 KB · Views: 475
  • 2520e9a3144aaa5c7805e1515ea30782--dinghy-blue-jay.jpg
    2520e9a3144aaa5c7805e1515ea30782--dinghy-blue-jay.jpg
    18.7 KB · Views: 456
Last edited:

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I have several pieces of walnut furniture I made over 20 years ago. They are all finished with varnish or polyurethane and all have faded. I will use a finish with a UV blocker, like spar varnish, if I build anything of walnut again. None of my pieces has seen direct sunlight.

So I recommend something with a UV block in it.
 

danmart77

Dan
Corporate Member
I have several pieces of walnut furniture I made over 20 years ago. They are all finished with varnish or polyurethane and all have faded. I will use a finish with a UV blocker, like spar varnish, if:I build anything of walnut again. None of my pieces has seen direct sunlight.

So I recommend something with a UV block in it.

Question
Did you start by applying an oil base like linseed or tung oil? I have seen varnish yellow and crack but not fade. This is a first.
 

JohnnyR

John
Corporate Member
Dan, those are remarkably well kept boats. I'm guessing the Jay is Circa 1960 and the thistle probably also. When I frostbited in Blue Jay's those old spruce spars were highly sought after because they bent much better than the new aluminum masts.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
I have several pieces of walnut furniture I made over 20 years ago. They are all finished with varnish or polyurethane and all have faded. I will use a finish with a UV blocker, like spar varnish, if I build anything of walnut again. None of my pieces has seen direct sunlight.

So I recommend something with a UV block in it.


Why fret about a +20 year color change? Wood is going to do whatever it wants to do despite our intervention and trying to stop it.
 

TENdriver

New User
TENdriver
Any chance that Epifanes has been updated over the last 20 years?

I know my softdrinks were, and according to the commercials, my laundry detergents get updated every episode of my favorite shows.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Any chance that Epifanes has been updated over the last 20 years?

I too would not use Waterlox for your application. Epifanes has a great reputation, but it's forumla is pretty old and there has been a tremendous amount of R&D Investment made in the past 20 years in finish technology.


Why would they update their formulation? Sorry, but I don't see the point other than Scott Smith's post about new, improved, and better stuff nowadays.
 

bowman

Board of Directors, Webmaster
Neal
Staff member
Corporate Member
OP asked for opinions on how to finish the walnut slab, and received great advise from some that are well versed. The discussion has slid to other discussions that should be moved to a new thread if someone chooses to start such a discussion.

Just my opinion...
 

Wyatt Co.

New User
Bill
OP asked for opinions on how to finish the walnut slab, and received great advise from some that are well versed. The discussion has slid to other discussions that should be moved to a new thread if someone chooses to start such a discussion.

Just my opinion...

I second that. If we are still allowed to have those.
 

jlwest

Jeff
Corporate Member
Mainly because it is tough and will take the elements. My porch is covered but doesn't stop all the sun and rain. It also looks cool.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
OP asked for opinions on how to finish the walnut slab, and received great advise from some that are well versed. The discussion has slid to other discussions that should be moved to a new thread if someone chooses to start such a discussion.

Just my opinion...

Ok, so you'll start that new discussion thread with the tangential content that's irrelevant to the original question from the OP? Just my opinion too!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top