Very, very nice work Joe!!!:eusa_danc:icon_thum:icon_thum
Thanks, Wayne..
I would like to know how the drawer was placed into the veneer bag. :icon_scra Did you have to remove the original drawer front, veneer and then reattach it?:dontknow:
Correct. Step 1-Remove the drawer front.
The back of the drawer was still held by hide glue which came apart with a heat gun.
However, the front had been 'repaired' with white or yellow glue (both the dovetails and the veneer patching) and had to have a MEK treatment. Nasty stuff.
And since the veneer had been slitted (correct), and white or yellow glue (not correct) squirted in the slits, there was no way for the MEK to completely rinse it out. So it had to be sanded off.
Step 2- Make a platen
that follows the edges of the workpiece so that the vacuum bag applies even pressure on the veneer AND round the top platen's edges so as to NOT puncture the bag. This pic shows the platen (front over the back, the drawer was sandwiched in between). The reason the back side is in 2 parts is that the drawer front uses a ledger strip to support the drawer bottom.
I bought a veneer pack that had strips long enough and wide enough enough that 2 strips would cover. Bobby G is setup for serious veneering including an edge truing jig.
Coupla' cuts with a block plane by a blockhead, coupla' swipes with a sanding block, press edges together and apply tape with your third hand, set it into the platens, stuff it in the bag, seal the bag end, turn on the pump and Bob's your uncle.
Looks like the SW stain match was pretty much bang on!
The stain isn't noticeably different. I stained (took about 4 coats), then 3 coats of shellac. Finally, put the drawer back together, this time with liquid hide glue.
Wayne
