Trimming Trim

[patlaw]

I may need to take 1/4" off the bottom of this cabinet trim for a new refrigerator. The only way I can think to do it is to clamp a straight edge to it and chisel it away with a multitool. Can you think of another way? (Sorry, a chisel is not an option. Those still don't work well for me!)

 

[Tarhead]

I would remove the piece of trim with a thin prybar and remove the excess with a table saw or set up a track for a circular saw on a flat surface. You're hemmed in with the side wall on the right and the vertical member on the left so trying to do this with it attached to the cabinet will leave a fair amount of uncut wood to nibble or saw with a hand saw.

 

[patlaw]

I don't see how I can remove it, but I will investigate. It seems to be in there pretty well.

 

[Phil S]

I would use a jigsaw with a new blade and then finish the cut with a pull saw. A block plane will clean up most of the cut.

 

[Charlie]

I would shorten the cabinet 2"-3" to assure adequate airflow around/behind the refrigerator.

 

[KenOfCary]

When I had a similar problem I removed the entire cabinet from the wall. Took it to the shop to fix and re-hung it after. Much easier to work on in the shop than in-place. Of course that all depends on how easy it is to remove the entire cabinet.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Take it down as Ken suggests. Should find a couple long screws in the back and 1 or 2 on each side perhaps. You may find a magnet helpful finding the screw heads. Then like Charlie says, shorten it so there's unrestricted air flow around the back.

 

[patlaw]

Unfortunately I'd have to take down several cabinets. They have a backing in them that runs across several cabinets. I've never seen that before.

I did have a thought. What about using a router?

 

[JimD]

My first choice would be to remove the doors and use my track saw. It would be a very accurate cut with little to no cleanup required. Attaching the track to the cabinet might be an issue but you might be able to clamp it to adjacent cabinets.

Without a track saw, a multi tool is a decent option, at last at the ends. I have three and found that my best tool, a Fein, is about twice as fast as my Ryobi cordless or my Harbor Freight all using the same blade. The best wood blade is about twice as fast as a multi purpose blade. So from using a inexpensive multi tool with a universal blade to a really good tool with the best wood blade (a bosch) will drop your cutting time by about a factor of 4. This is a long cut in hard wood so it could be significant.

Another reasonable option for the middle of the cut is my Ryobi cordless circular saw. It is not a precision tool but would do OK but cleanup would be required and a jig saw, multi tool or reciprocating saw would be required at the ends. I like the Ryobi for this because it is so light. It might use two small batteries but would make the cut.

You could do it with a router. It would leave a decent edge if there wasn't chip out. You'd have to chisel the very end.

You could also bet most of it with a handplane.

Lots of options.

 

[Phil S]

Unfortunately I'd have to take down several cabinets. They have a backing in them that runs across several cabinets. I've never seen that before.

I did have a thought. What about using a router?

A router was going to be my second suggestion, but it will require a lot more cleanup after. Just apply a guide strip above the cut line and use a pattern bit with a bearing. You will still have to finish the cut on both ends by hand

 

[TENdriver]

Mike, Phils suggestion will work like a champ, as long as you can firmly clamp a straight edge to the face frame. I've done similar things multiple times though yours is in an awkward location and getting dust in your eyes is an issue. I'd use a pattern bit with a top mounted bearing. If you don't have one, MLCS should have one and the shipping used to be free.

You probably realize this, but there is some chance of hitting a staple, pin, nail or screw somewhere along that face frame. Check it closely and keep clear of flying carbide.

BTW, after routing the bulk of the material, leave the straight edge clamped in place and it will do a great job of guiding a hand saw to finish the two ends. If you cut carefully, it will turn out nearly as well as the actual routed portion.

 

[chris_goris]

Thats not trim... thats the rail on the cabinet faceframe. The best way is to use a straight edge and a router with a pattern bit. something small will work fine like a Bosch colt. It wont be fast but you can get a majority out (except the ends) which you can easily clean up with a sharp paring chisel. remove the doors and you can mount a fairly wide straight edge and clamp firmly in 3 places (center and ends). Other than that, buy a shorter refrigerator!

 

[koslonc]

Maybe you've considered this already, but most refrigerators have adjustable feet. You may have enough adjustment to lower it by the 1/4" you need. I realize this is not a 'woodworking' solution but it may save having to modify the cabinet in any way.

 

[nn4jw]

It's difficult to tell in the picture, but that bottom strip on the face frame looks like it's nailed in place. I think I can see at least 4 nail heads. The cabinet looks like it was pieced together in a non-standard way. It may be possible to tap from behind the lower piece (gently) and pop it loose. If it is a complete face frame, you might be able to remove the whole face frame that way (after removing the door) and then deal with removing the unwanted material easily. Then just nail it back into the same holes and rehang the door.

 

[Mike Davis]

When we moved to our present home we had the same problem except the cabinet was 3 inches too low for our refrigerator.

I cut the bottom off the cabinet, replaced the bottom shelf, cut down the door, remade the face frame, and took out the middle shelf since there was no longer any room for it. Got to all back together and painted everything to match.

I think this is a much similar job and agree that you need space for hot air to escape for the rear or you may risk overheating the appliance.

 

[Berta]

It's difficult to tell in the picture, but that bottom strip on the face frame looks like it's nailed in place. I think I can see at least 4 nail heads. The cabinet looks like it was pieced together in a non-standard way. It may be possible to tap from behind the lower piece (gently) and pop it loose. If it is a complete face frame, you might be able to remove the whole face frame that way (after removing the door) and then deal with removing the unwanted material easily. Then just nail it back into the same holes and rehang the door.[/QUOTE

i agree that this face frame was tacked in place with brads or finish nails. Be aware that you might have to shorten the doors. I vote to remove that bottom piece and take it to the table saw.

 

[Charles Lent]

Most refrigerator/freezers are "frost free" these days and the coil that was once n the back is now underneath with a fan circulating air through it. If this refrigerator has a louvered grill on the bottom front there is no need to leave space above or behind it..If there are coils on the back side, then air flow is required behind and above the refrigerator, so 3" or more space should be left behind and above.

Charley

 

[JohnnyR]

Attaching a straight edge for routing presents its own challenges. You can rout half the depth with a rabbet bit with bearing and then switch to a flush trim or pattern bit for the other 'half'. You'll still have to finish off with a pull saw and/or chisels or multi tool.

 

[chris_goris]

I would shorten the cabinet 2"-3" to assure adequate airflow around/behind the refrigerator.

Refrigerators only require airflow around the bottom to function properly. I used to design them for frigidaire/Viking

 

[DaveD]

You can guide the router base against the straightedge. No bearing required.
You could also let the router ride on top of the guide board and use a straight bit with the bearing on top and have it run against your guide board.
You could cut it with a jigsaw against the guide board. You can manipulate the jigsaw/blade to get very close to the corner. Use a palm sander to finish it up if it's a little rough.

What I wouldn't do is try to take the cabinet off the wall (PITA job) or try to cut the bottom rail off. Remember part of the bottom rail's job is to give strength to the front edge of the shelves so you would want to put it back on in a way to add to the cabinet's strength. Not just 'tack' it back on.