Thin Table for Behind Couch.

[ste6168]

All,

I am having some issues with a design. A coworker wants me to build her a thin table that will fit behind her couch, for drinks/pictures and such. I am struggling with the idea of having 4 legs, since she only wants the table 8" wide or so. She presented the idea to me with the attached picture, from Pinterest . I told her I could do it, but it certainly wouldn't be $30... What do you all think of the design I came up with (attached)? I basically designed an oversized bench. 84" L x 8" W x 30" H - Dimensions may change slightly based on actual couch. M&T for skirts and stretcher. Do you see any issues or flaws I may run into? Can you think of a better way to do it? I told her I am not interested in building it from dimensional lumber, as the picture shows, and recommended Ash or possibly Poplar to keep the cost down.

 

[Berta]

I prefer the 4 legs. It gives it a lighter feel.

 

[ste6168]

I prefer the 4 legs. It gives it a lighter feel.

Being that its only 8" wide, would you bring the legs out to the edge of the top, or recess them like a regular table? I will draw up another design that incorporates 4 legs soon, and compare. I appreciate the input.

Here is another picture I found, with wide legs, for comparison.

 

[mkepke]

What Berta said.

By definition, the table is only going to be seen from the top and the end(s), so the CAD example will look very boxy in situ.

Other construction options:
* make a torsion shelf and attach it to the wall (no legs required)
* use a single spindle on each end for each leg - each spindle has two feet and a shares a stretcher.
* use your current design, but run the legs at a 45 degree angle like a cross-brace.

Edit to add: I've assume this table will sit between the coach and a wall, but realize now that might be a bad assumption.

And I think you should have a heart to heart discussion about costs: hardwood costs real money and M&T construction takes real time... What you've said you want to build requires almost the same labor as a much bigger table.

In theory no reason it couldn't be built out of construction lumber and pocket screws.. Maybe another reason to look at a torsion shelves - much easier/faster to build.

-Mark

 

[NOTW]

Perhaps I am over simplifying the design but if it were me making it then I would use either normal or preferably SYP 2x4's and rip them down for the base, either using mortise and tennon joints or even pocket screws for the joinery and using either a 2x10 ripped down or even a nice hardwood for the top. Which would be how I would assume they arrived at $30 for the table. Once you've got the frame of the base created the top could just be screwed on from below and then the holes filled in with plugs.

But i agree with Berta, the 4 legs is more aesthetically pleasing

 

[Berta]

The plans for that has the table 12" wide. If they want it 8" I would attach it to the wall like a floating shelf and add 2 legs, spindle style to the front just because.

 

[JimD]

Seems like it would be pretty simple to make of 2x2s and a 2x8 or 10 for the top. Through screws hidden by plugs cut out of the same material would be my first choice for joints. With relatively crude material and a somewhat crude design, I would use a somewhat crude joint. Sanding would take longer than the rest of the construction.

 

[ste6168]

Perhaps I am over simplifying the design but if it were me making it then I would use either normal or preferably SYP 2x4's and rip them down for the base, either using mortise and tennon joints or even pocket screws for the joinery and using either a 2x10 ripped down or even a nice hardwood for the top. Which would be how I would assume they arrived at $30 for the table. Once you've got the frame of the base created the top could just be screwed on from below and then the holes filled in with plugs.

But i agree with Berta, the 4 legs is more aesthetically pleasing

Nope, I don't think you are over simplifying the design, I am overcomplicating it. After reading through the responses, several times, and thinking about the intended use for the table (and the fact that it will be mostly covered up with the couch/wall) I am going to keep it simple for the frame, top it with a nice piece of stained Ash, and call it a day. Pocket screws and butt joints. Should serve its purpose well.

Thanks all for the honest opinions.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I have made that table and it's pretty stable for a 7 1/4" wide piece. The bottom extended past the leg to form an L shape that extended under the couch for added stability.
I remember the plan was in a mag, probably in the early 90s. Sorry, don't remember which one.

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[Jeff]

A little more research has uncovered some specifics about this table design. Check out this DIY by "Jenna Sue". It's kinda cobbled together with angle brackets and screws, but ultimately sandwiched between the wall and back of the couch so that's probably not a big deal for stability. What if it's moved to a new location where it's not sandwiched between stuff?

http://blog.jennasuedesign.com/2015/06/diy-sofa-table-tutorial/

Note: Center divider legs. Probably still a good idea over a 7' span.

A combination of bridle joints and half-lap joints could be done on a table saw and provide a sturdier frame for future use. Top it with a nice piece of ash or whatever she likes.

 

[mkepke]

I have made that table and it's pretty stable for a 7 1/4" wide piece. The bottom extended past the leg to form an L shape that extended under the couch for added stability.
I remember the plan was in a mag, probably in the early 90s. Sorry, don't remember which one.

OK, lengthening the foot to extend under the couch for stability is a *good* idea.

-Mark

 

[golfdad]

if the foot is extended.....which would work.....then thats the only place it can be used
?

 

[Lowlander]

I wouldn't have a sofa table that width unless it was sandwiched or had extended feet, especially with kids. What about extension add on and a strapping kits if it's ever placed away from the couch.

 

[Jeff]

Lots of good thoughts about the pros and cons of making an 8" w "skinny" table that has stability.

So I'll toss this out to the peanut gallery for discussion and critique. It may help the OP with his design ideas.

1. The legs are 2" x 2" with a 2" w x 1" deep dado/rabbet for the rails.

2. M&T joints for the front and back legs hold them in an "H" shape.

3. Rickety? It should firm up when the top is attached. :icon_scra

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[ste6168]

Well, I think her and I came up with a solution to the design. She is not worried about final cost, and I am not worried about making a ton of money. As long as she covers the material cost, and pays me a few bucks to put back into the shop, I am good. I took and modified Jeffs idea from above a bit to keep the assembly fairly easy, using half laps for the spreaders and aprons. The cross pieces are more than likely going to be M&T, I thought about just using the Kreg jig for them, but there's no good way to hide the holes on the bottoms, so I just plan to take the extra time and do it right. Because of its design, if she ever plans to use it anywhere BUT sandwiched between wall and couch, then she will need to anchor it to the wall. Either going to be made of all Ash, with a stain, or all Cherry. Obviously, cherry will add significantly to the cost, but matches her current furniture. She is going to make the decision today, and I will go pickup the lumber this afternoon.

 

[NOTW]

Awesome, I like the design. Time to make some sawdust!

 

[ste6168]

Well, still needs a few things before it is "done," but close enough for a picture or two. Ill post more after finish. Taking longer than expected (holiday planning and a long weekend trip to Charleston haven't helped), but hoping to finish it completely by this weekend and get it out of the shop. Challenge to work on the thing being so long in my little space! Like typical, I ran into some issues along the way, but was able to overcome them, and I think the table turned out fairly well... As it sits now, it needs a little bit more sanding, some polyurethane, and then glued up. Dry assembly for fit test, and a quick picture.

 

[CrealBilly]

Looks like you did that one up right - good job.

 

[Jeff]

Nicely done, Mike. Cherry wood, correct?

How's the stability as a stand-alone table only about +/- 8" wide?

 

[ste6168]

Nicely done, Mike. Cherry wood, correct?

How's the stability as a stand-alone table only about +/- 8" wide?

Correct, it is cherry. It is more stable than I had anticipated, but I still wouldn't want it freestanding in the middle of a room. I would have full confidence in it standing by itself, up against a wall. In this case, it will be sandwiched between the couch and wall, so there should be no issue there.