Tenon on a Dowel ?

[Canuck]

I am currently working a project that calls for turning a 1/2"D by 1/2" long tenon on the ends of a piece of 3/4" dowel.

My question is how to mount about an 8" piece of 3/4" oak dowel between centers on my lathe?:icon_scra

Can I capture one end of the dowel stock at the headstock with my chuck then the other end into a live center? (I would hope that a piece of dowel this short wouldn't wobble to much as I cut the 1/2" tenon.)

(I looked at a couple of jigs for doing it on a router table with a straight bit; but, having the lathe sitting there, it just seems it would be easier.)

(I was once told by DaveO is that the only stupid question was the one not asked!:gar-La

Thanks

Wayne

 

[smandal]

I have one of these http://www.woodworkingshop.com/cgi-bin/82292E0E/mac/additmdtl.mac/showItemDetail?item=WK10460

 

[Trent Mason]

I've turned dowel rod ends smaller before using the factory "drive center" (?) (has the spikes on it) to hold the dowel rod in place and just brought the tail stock up. It would be easier to turn the side closest to the tailstock.

Sorry for my never-ending lack of terminology. :slap:

 

[CarvedTones]

I would chuck a 10" dowel in either my small parts chuck or Jacobs chuck and turn the tenon near the chuck, reverse it and turn the other and then cut off the extra inch on each end I used to hold it in the chuck.

 

[Canuck]

Thanks guys!!!!

Sounds like I have a couple of options worth trying.:eusa_danc:eusa_danc

My Jacobs chuck will only grab a 1/2" diameter, but if I can get my drive center to hold the headstock end long enough to turn the 1/2" tenon then I could chuck that end up in the jacobs chuck and turn the other end. (live center in the tailstock end)

Smandal: Was that a tenon cutter that you chuck up on a drill press that you were linking to at Klinspor? (The link didn't seem to work.)

Thanks again!

Wayne

 

[CarvedTones]

Wayne,

I can loan you my small parts chuck for a few days if you want. It's a little 3 jaw self center on a #2MT. Dowels that size are pretty much what it is made for.

 

[lonehunter]

If the dowel is round, just figure how much you need to take off. Raise your saw blade on your table saw a 1/8". Use the fence as a stop, (if you want a 1" wide tennon have the fence 1" from the blade) Feed the dowel slowly into the blade from the side. Rotate the dowel as you nibble away the wood. When you have nibbled all the way around, make another blade adjustment and repeat until you get the diameter you want. What you will end up with is a dowel with a smaller tennon on the end.

I hope I have described this good enough.

Jeff

 

[Bear]

I have done a number of tenons by placing the stock between a dead drive center, no spur, and a live center. The friction will drive the piece just fine if you do not take heavy cuts and going from 3/4 to 1/2 should not require heavy cuts. I use this same method when practicing with the skews, catches are not nearly so frightening. I also do this with metal on a metal lathe, works for me.

Bear

 

[Elmojo]

If you have a Barracuda or similar chuck system with a hollow center, you can mount the dowel through the chuck so that only a couple inches sticks out.
Just a thought.

 

[CarvedTones]

A number of people are suggesting solutions that don't involve a chuck or do the cutting at the far end. In those sitations, how can you be sure you are centered? I don't know how important it is for what Wayne is making for the tenon to be concentric with the dowel, but in a lot of cases, that would be very important. Chucking it and cutting near the chuck as Mike P and I suggest would be concentric (so would that tablesaw suggestion, but that gives me the willies). Is there a way to center a dowel without a chuck? I have had reasons to want to do this before and haven't had success. If there is a good way, please enlighten me.

 

[Bear]

Hello Andy,

One way that I approach determining the center of round stock is to use flat stock that is half the diameter of the round piece, lay on flat surface with flat stock against the end of the round and draw a line with sharp pencil, rotate round stock 90 degrees and draw another line. The intersection of the two lines should be within a few thousandths of center. Using a marking knife will increase the accuracy somewhat. I use pieces of aluminum bar stock for the common sizes, .250 x .375, .500 x .750 etc. If the round stock is of non-standard size, cutting a piece of hardwood to half the diameter will work also.

My communication skills are rather limited so hope this makes sense.

Bear

 

[Bear]

Hello Mike,

What size lathe do you have that has a .750 spindle hole clearance? I can barely get .375 through my Jet 1642. An 8” piece would extend out several inches from the chuck and in my opinion would make it rather difficult to mill the end accurately. I use that approach when the stock will enter the spindle.

Bear

 

[Elmojo]

Hello Mike,

What size lathe do you have that has a .750 spindle hole clearance? I can barely get .375 through my Jet 1642. An 8” piece would extend out several inches from the chuck and in my opinion would make it rather difficult to mill the end accurately. I use that approach when the stock will enter the spindle.

Bear

Hmmm, that's a good point. I have the ubiquitous Harbor Freight lathe. I just assumed it would have a large enough hole, since the headstock is 1"x8tpi, but I haven't measured it. It very well may not be large enough.
I should have thought that one through better, sorry!:embarrassed: