Table Saws

[Wolfpacker]

I have a Craftsman 10" table saw, circa 1980 or so. It has the cast aluminum top and stamped steel extensions. It has served me well for what I've done so far. I have the opportunity to purchase a really old Craftsman 10" table saw that has the cast iron top and extensions on a homemade rolling stand. The extensions are not solid, but like latticework/criss-cross design. I'm guessing it is likely 50+ years old. Would this be a big improvement over what I have ? What would it possibly be worth ?

Thanks.

 

[awldune]

My saw has the stamped extensions like yours and there is considerable give at the tip of the extensions. The cast iron extensions will be much stiffer, which is nice if you are cutting a lot of wide stock or using the saw as a worktop.

Is your current saw a direct drive saw (blade arbor directly on the motor shaft?) The older one likely is not, which would be an upgrade in various ways.

The older saw may have a stronger motor.

A good price is probably somewhere in the $100-200 range, maybe a little more if the fence is upgraded.

 

[Mike Davis]

Those lattice work extensions have always scared me, I never heard of anyone getting injured with them, but they just look like a major hurt waiting to happen.

 

[JimD]

Belt drive increases the depth of cut and the arbor used with belt drive will typically accept a dado set, maybe a direct drive will too. It is definitely a desirable feature. They may both have belt drive, however.

I'm not sure the open lattice cast extensions are really much better than stamped steel extensions. Stuff will fall through but they may be more rigid. Seems like a mixed bag.

Do they both have riving knives? That is a desirable safety feature but older says tend to be worse in that department.

How would you rate the rip fences?

In general, a saw you know and meets your needs is difficult to improve upon. Unless the new one does something you need or does something significantly better it may not be worth more to you.

 

[Jeff]

Why would you buy a 1950s table saw when your current saw is only about 30 years old and apparently has worked well for your needs?

 

[bob vaughan]

I put some of those latticework extensions on a Sears saw I had back in the 1970s. I found them handy for clamping featherboards and never had a problem with them that I didn't ask for by keeping cut offs on the top while using the saw.

How old the Sears saw is may or may not be a significant factor. It will depend on the model. The best were equivalents to the USA-made Delta contractors saws except for the fence. The Sears fences often were lacking. An aftermarket fence is usually an upgrade.

Any old used machine is a risk. Its very unlikely it is in the same mechanical shape as it came from the factory.

Look at the switch. A light weight household light switch isn't a good sign of previous care.

 

[beloitdavisja]

If you're interested in older machinery, I have a 50's Atlas table saw that I don't use that you can have free. Has a cast-iron top and a cast iron lattice extension (only on one side though). It belonged to my grandfather, and then I used it for a while before upgrading. It's in good, but not perfect condition. I did a clean up on it a few years ago to remove the rust. The motor runs well, but could use a new wire to the switch as it is fraying. The motor belt is broke, so you'd have to get a new one. The fence is admittedly terrible, but for a free saw you can probably upgrade it. There's no riving knife or splitter (one of the reasons I upgraded). Currently sits on a metal frame stand.

PM me if you're interested and I can shoot you over some pictures. It looks similar to this one:

 

[Wolfpacker]

Why would you buy a 1950s table saw when your current saw is only about 30 years old and apparently has worked well for your needs?

Not sure I would, just thinking and I know folks on here are more knowledgable than I am on matters like this. I could keep one saw in the garage and the other in the basement workshop. The saw is owned by the homeowner I'm purchasing a house from and he asked if I was interested in it.

 

[Wolfpacker]

If you're interested in older machinery, I have a 50's Atlas table saw that I don't use that you can have free. Has a cast-iron top and a cast iron lattice extension (only on one side though). It belonged to my grandfather, and then I used it for a while before upgrading. It's in good, but not perfect condition. I did a clean up on it a few years ago to remove the rust. The motor runs well, but could use a new wire to the switch as it is fraying. The motor belt is broke, so you'd have to get a new one. The fence is admittedly terrible, but for a free saw you can probably upgrade it. There's no riving knife or splitter (one of the reasons I upgraded). Currently sits on a metal frame stand.

PM me if you're interested and I can shoot you over some pictures. It looks similar to this one:

Thanks for the offer, but I will pass. Only looking at this one because it's at the house I'm purchasing and the owner wants to sell it.

 

[Jeff]

Not sure I would, just thinking and I know folks on here are more knowledgable than I am on matters like this. I could keep one saw in the garage and the other in the basement workshop. The saw is owned by the homeowner I'm purchasing a house from and he asked if I was interested in it.

Fair enough if the price is reasonable.

 

[cpw]

Would this be a big improvement over what I have ?

All other things being more or less equal, probably. The open "latticework" wings are going to be vastly more rigid than stamped steel, so if the top and wings are flat and true (check it with a straight edge), and the motor is still good it would be a good step up.

Generally, you don't need support under every square inch of a piece of stock to get a good cut. All that really matters, ultimately, is the relationship of the work piece to the blade at the point of the cut. Wings, outfeed tables, support stands etc., are all about servicing that relationship. Most dimensional lumber and sheet goods are rigid enough so that if you have support every foot or two of length and that support is in the same plane as your saw top next to the blade you're fine. Actually, less surface contact can be a minor advantage as there will be less friction on the work piece.

My first table saw was an old 9" Delta Rockwell combo with a 4" joiner. As you can see in the photo there was very little table, particularly to to the left of the blade and no outfeed space at all, but I made a spring clamp support bar that rested on the fence rails (pictured) and used support stands on the left and for the outfeed.

As Mike Davis intimated if you are working with some gnarly wood that has knots and whatnot projecting off of it, or you have some "potato chip" plywood you're trying to cut down you may have some risk of snagging a projection or corner in the lattice, but even on a solid top you need to flip those problems up rather than down. It's just a matter of thinking and planning the cut.

As others have said I would also be concerned about safety features of the saws like guards, a riving knife or splitter, but there are aftermarket and shop-made solutions to some of those problems.

What would it possibly be worth ?

I have no idea. Ultimately you have to decide what is is worth to you.