Spraying setup?

[ScottM]

I am looking for my first spray setup. As most of you know most of my work is on small projects so I am not looking for a major production setup. Currently I use a lot of rattle can products like Deft. I am thinking lacquer as it dries very fast but I am open. I do not have a spray booth.

 

[RandyJ]

Hi Scott,
I have a Wagner HVLP. I believe I paid $99 at Lowes a couple of years ago. I used it on the recent baby cradle project. It worked great. Especially since it was my first time using HVLP!:swoon:
If you would like to try it out, just let me know.
Good luck on your search,

 

[srhardwoods]

Scott, I was in the same boat as you. I would spray inside my shop, and used a earlex 7000 HVLP system. I recently upgraded to a larger system since I now have a dedicated spray room with ventilation but the earlex worked great for me in my shop. I am going to be selling it soon and it comes with all the tips that were extra. do some research on turbine HVLP and look at all the systems. hands down, it makes a world of difference when finishing both in quality and time but you need to find what looks best for your setup and price too

Chris

 

[FredP]

depending on your compressor you may get a decent conversion gun for 100 bucks or less and be good to go. I use the PC gravity feed and it does OK. the HF gets good reviews as well but as you know HF can be a mixed bag. ya just never know whats in the bag!:rotflm: if you're compressor aint up to snuff you may want to look at an all in one like the earlex exc..... fuji is great but pricey. lacquer sprays easily is is quite forgiving.:icon_thum

 

[Bill Clemmons]

depending on your compressor you may get a decent conversion gun for 100 bucks or less and be good to go. I use the PC gravity feed and it does OK. the HF gets good reviews as well but as you know HF can be a mixed bag. ya just never know whats in the bag!:rotflm: if you're compressor aint up to snuff you may want to look at an all in one like the earlex exc..... fuji is great but pricey. lacquer sprays easily is is quite forgiving.:icon_thum

+1 what Fred says. For small projects like yours, I might consider the smaller HVLP gun from HF, like the one in this kit. I've got the larger (20 oz) PC gravity feed HVLP gun that I use for most of my furniture projects. Both shellac and lacquer do well w/ it.

Bill

 

[Tim Sherwood]

I just got my first spray gun. It's a hvlp from Woodcraft for under $40 . My compressor is a small double hot dog style. The combination works great. I picked up Jeff Jewett's new book "Spraying made easy" . It was a big help in getting started.
I sprayed 5 sheets of plywood with shellac, and didn't tax the compressor at all. Like you, I do not have an explosion proof fan in a spray booth . So I took this big job outside. But I plan on spraying some smaller jobs soon. I'll just put a box fan in the window and crack open a door. I don't feel that there would enough of a concentration of vapors to cause a problem on small jobs.

 

[junquecol]

HF has their 20oz, gravity feed HVLP gun on sale THIS WEEK END for $9.99. Model 47016 / 67181. I used a couple (primer and for paint) to spray oil based paint on the hand rails I rehabed. Used a twin stack compressor to run them. It appears to me that this is the same gun that Rockler and Woodcraft sell.

 

[SubGuy]

Hi Scott,
I have a Wagner HVLP. I believe I paid $99 at Lowes a couple of years ago. I used it on the recent baby cradle project. It worked great. Especially since it was my first time using HVLP!:swoon:
If you would like to try it out, just let me know.
Good luck on your search,

I have the same one and enjoy it. For starting out I think you'll like it. :icon_thum

 

[TDeal]

Just last week I used for the first time on a cabinet project an Earlex 5000 HVLP that I bought at a Woodcraft special event a few years ago. I sprayed water based polyurethane using the 1.5 mm tip and it worked great. Actually I was surprised - I had alwyas used a brush or spray cans, but I sprayed two cabinets including the doors and shelves and don't have any runs that I can see. Following the Earlex instructions I sprayed three light coats - each time using a across and up and down (with the grain) patterns. One thing I learned though is to spray the first pass WITH the grain THEN cross grain. On the shelves that I did first I think I see where the coverage/absorption isn't as uniform. I suspect going cross grain first makes the absorption less uniform and/or more noticeable. Overall I was very pleased.

 

[BWSmith]

Probably shouldn't reply.....have been accused of confusing folks,oh well.


Try to look at the "issue"(not problem)in broader terms.Its like the 'ole crystal ball thing I reckon?Meaning if we all knew where we'd be 5 years from now,lots of things 'round the shop would be much easier.Seeing as AC's(air compressor)are so valuable in just about any shop,the decision to get into a nice one for general use will have an influence on spraying.

Space requirements in the shop is a very important consideration....this coming from someone who's BTDT and is on the downsizing trail.A spraybooth is easy enough to make.....I could fab up a very nice one out of an old refrigerator,heck the box they come in will work.I have a stainless resturaunt exhaust hood....yadayada.The point is they take up room.How well you look at this "issue" and work it into your shop profile,can be a make it or break it affair.I started BIG(600 sq ft),and then got smaller.But,that space gets used for other purposes.....no harm,no foul.A nice refrige sized "booth" on wheels that nested into or around another pc of equip would be one way of "best use of space".

Venting a spraybooth is rather easy.....lots of good sound,safe ways to accomplish it.The "make-up" air is what stops us.By looking at the makeup side of the spraybooth or shop area or wherever,it can sometimes jog the thought process in deciding how much or how big of space investment you can make.

Theres more......the stands and tables that seem to follow spraying "stuff" are a real consideration.IOWs,you've got the space....got the booth....got spray equip,what are you gonna use as stands and/or drying racks?Its easy peazy....but one that escapes alot of folks.Its one of my favorite aspects of the whole process,because it ties in very nicely with overall material handling.So give that some thought on what can be used for stands?Old fold-up TV trays from the 60's are worth keeping an eye open for at yardsales.


Point of response is to try and put a positive lite on what can be a daunting subject.But by breaking it down into smaller,bite-sized pcs and seeing how those items serve dbl duty in a general shop environ...it can take the sting out of some of it.BW

 

[peterdnight]

Interesting - since I have just finished adding a layer of deft spray gloss lacquer to my 40x72 dining room table. Got lucky and found a 12' 20" wide mahagoney plank at nc hardwoods over xmas!

Prior to discovering Deft in a can @BoxStore, i was looking seriously at getting a spray setup. Now - no way. At best I am outputing 1 project every month or 2 - just not enough for me to justify a HVLP setup.

I have been absolutely "thrilled" with the results. Generally - I start with padding on Shellac, then top with Deft.

Happy spraying

 

[DaveD]

Several areas of caution. BTDT.

Pay attention to safety if spraying flammable liquids. A spark or flame from any kind of source is your enemy. Pilot lights on gas appliances, motor starting relays, light switches, etc. Possibly static electricity too.

Be sure to put filters on any air exhausted from the shop. You don't want to see the side of your house/car with a color tint on it.

I had a typical 24" explosion proof fan that could exhaust air faster than the home heating system (was spraying in the basement ) could reheat makeup air. In the winter it could pull the house down to 55 degrees in an hour or in the summer raise the house temp 20 degrees in an hour because the AC couldn't keep up.

Some airborne paint particles can travel a long way. Was told aluminum paint particles could go 1/4 mile. Don't know if it was true or not but it made me think about paint exhaust.

Lastly, explosion proof devices (fans/switches/etc) have to have their electrical wires 'potted' to seal the device and if I remember correctly explosion proof means if there is an explosion in the device it will be contained in the device and will not ignite the surrounding atmosphere. Hence the need for 'potting' the electrical wires entering the device. Explosion proof fans also have aluminum (non sparking) blades.