Jimmy, Mohawk is a good product, used till 5 years ago when moved to NC. Switched to ML Cambell products due to no Mohawk dealers in this area and shipping is to much $$$ on solvent products now. Check to see if Wurth wood Group in your area for Campbell products. That said, you can get good results but viscosity and tip size are very important.
You'll want only 3 coats at +- 5 mil wet each with pre and post cat. Clear is un-necessary with precat and not recommended by mfg dry mill too thick. Get primer tinted. With the "burn in" of lacquer products, the clear will not be anymore protective than without. If it chips or scratches the layers act as one. Get a mil guage, easy to use and cheap, 4-5 mils is thicker than you think but essential, (Can you say "It's gonna run!") Spray horizontal if possible. Sample boards are important and keep record of ounces of thinner/product.
Your sealer is going to be 50-55% solids, it usually will have to be thinned to spray. Mfg will probably recommend 10-15%. It's not a problem to go more to get good atomization. Lay it on WET. It will dry to sand in 1-2 hours. Sand with very fine, we use sanding blocks by hand. your only trying to get snots knocked off (hopefully you won't have any) and etch for further coating. Try not to sand thru sealer. If you do, lightly recoat only sand thru and scotch bright. Lay on 2 coats of white pigmented finish. We use satin 15-25 sheen. Use maroon scotch bright or 3m between coats (etching only). If you end up w/ Cambell products we use Clawlock sealer and either Resitant or Krystal finish coats. However, both are post cat but mixing is not a problem. Get a ratio cup no matter what system your using. As far a coverage, too many variables, transfer rate, over spray etc but you should easily get 1-300 sq ft per gallon or in you case 2-4 or better cabinets w/ doors and drawers at a minimum.
Guns! Lots to choose from and the old saying "you get what you pay for". In the 2-400.00 range will get you a very good gun though. Would recommend buying from auto supplier, Wurth, Mohawk or possibly from finish house online. I say this because they will have a tech rep that can recommend/ help with tip sizes, set up etc. All sizes are not standard and vary by gun mfg. Some good guns Sata,Defilbis, Binks,CA technoligies Kremlin etc. We use Sata air assist HVLP gravity feed w/ 1.4 tip for most products.
Again experiment with sample boards. Once you "master" (I'm still learning after 25+ years) these finishes you'll never go back. Many options for finishes, glazes, sand thrus, distressed etc. There is a learning curve though, but it's not that painful.
If you need further help contact me.
Robb
Heritage Woodwright LLC
I went back to non catalized and get a much better finish. the pre-cat was rough because it didnt have time to flow out. and its hard stuff so rubbing it out was tough. retarder helps. BUT [there is always a but] you can always get jeff mills to come put some magic spit on it!:rotflm: worked on mine!:gar-La;
