Spray Toner- what's your favorite combo

[redknife]

I'm working through different toner product combinations (where toner is dye mixed in a finish) sprayed using a 4 stage HVLP turbine. Can't say that I'm doing particularly well despite lots of practice, books, and videos. It looks pretty easy when Jeff Jewitt does it.
I have no experience spraying toner. So far, I have tried enduro-var, dewaxed shellac (2# and 1# cut from flakes), Sealcoat, target coatings em1000 full strength and 1:1 dilution. I've used Transtint for the dye in all cases. I've had unique challenges with each approach and there are a lot of variables for me since it is new. I think I'm settling on a 1# garnet shellac with dye as a toner for the first coat in my current project. Topcoats will be target em8000. I don't often dye or stain my projects but would like to get better at this spray toner technique.
My questions are:
For those that spray toner, what products do you like to use? Any tricks that you've learned?

 

[Phil S]

My favorite is super blonde shellac diluted to 1/2 pound cut mixed with transtint dye and sprayed on with a Neo/Iwata TRN2 air brush with .5 needle. Light coats. For big projects I would use a detail lvlp gun

 

[Robb Parker]

I use ML Campbell Vinyl tinted with trans tint for toning and shading. Sticks to anything. Can top coat with anything.

 

[redknife]

I use ML Campbell Vinyl tinted with trans tint for toning and shading. Sticks to anything. Can top coat with anything.

Robb, do you use an hvlp gun and what size cap?

 

[Willemjm]

Depending on the size of the article and how much color is used, mixing Transtint with a finish can be a challenge. The issue is where your spray passes overlap, you will always get darker shades in the overlap area. If you are spraying something small, without large flat areas, success is a lot easier.

I mix the Transtint die with acetone, which evaporates real fast when sprayed. I spray a thin layer on the wood before any base/seal/wash coat and find it easy to fill in light areas and get an even color over the surface. If I end up with too much spray and a darker spot somewhere, light sanding with 400 grit again evens out the color. After this I use a wash, or base seal coat, a very light sand and then proceed with my final coats, none containing any tint or stain.

 

[Robb Parker]

Chris, I spray a Sata 3000 digital HVPL with a 1.3 cap and needle.I also spray a RP Sata 2000 with a 1.9. Willem, not disagreeing but with toner I barely overlap. Real good atomization is key to not getting lap lines. Also, must spray consistant wet film without dry spray or orange peel. We spray large 24"x96" panels regularly for cabinets. We do not sand over toner coats, too easy to get uneven places or sand thru, we only scotch brite etch with maroon. I don't think I would like acetone as the vehicle, too quick a flash off for me with no flow out. We also do not tone raw wood, only on top of another finish either clear for stained or pigmented. If we are doing raw wood, we will use a dye. Mostly achocol based.

Lots of ways to skin a cat as the saying goes. Did I say do lots of sample boards first!

 

[redknife]

Did I say do lots of sample boards first!

That's the one thing I've done right, including sample boards for the sample boards!