Someday i want to build some furniture.

[eyekode]

My workbench is very much a hand tool bench and I do use it as outfeed. It sits a couple inches below my TS but honestly that has not been a problem. It keeps the long stuff from falling and the short stuff is no big deal either.

I figured if it bothered me I would make something the right hieght to sit on the workbench. I haven't yet found the need.
Good luck!
Salem

 

[Mark Stewart]

I love to read these posts. I would some day like to build a workbench But first I would need to build a shop.
My daughter has moved back into the house so I dont even get to turn any more.

 

[Graywolf]

Bill, At this time I work on a 24X60 bench. I have done some medium sized to small projects on it just fine. However, that being said, My next bench (I hope in this year) I'm going to go with 22X84. I want to do larger projects and based on my space I can fit this bench in here just fine.
You can go with a 72" long bench and make the depth what ever your good with. The one thing I have learned over the past couple years about woodworking is There maybe rules to things but some rules can be bent or even broken to meet your needs.
Good luck
Richard

 

[Steve_Honeycutt]

Mike,

As I mentioned at lunch the other day, I am working on a version of the New Fangled Workbench from Fine Woodworking:

New-Fangled Workbench, Revisited - Fine Woodworking Video

I am not sure the final product will be "post worthy" or not.

I like the features on this bench because:

- the size is scaleable to whatever size you want/need
- doesn't use expensive materials, the design is made from dimensional lumber
- doesn't use expensive vises, it uses pipe clamps
- it has a 12" wide well in the middle for the pipe clamps, but it would work well for drop in router plates or other bench top power tools, the well is covered by 3/4" MDF
- it has a planing wedge in the front for edge work and an adjust planing beam
- it has a removeable and adjustable front vise made from pipe clamps
- the bench is assembled with 3/8" x 6" lag screws and 2 1/2" drywall screws, so assembly is quick, this would also making replacing parts on the bench easy

I too have limited space. I hope to put some "landing gear" on the bench so that I can move it to various places in my garage/shop and it still be a solid platform for working. When I saw the features of the bench, it seems to meet most of my needs.

Good luck on your bench quest. There are quite a few designs available.

Steve

 

[mightyscott]

I am planning to make a double bunkbed with two trundles for my Grandchildren. I 'm worried about the wheels of the trundle needing to be lifted on to the carpet. Perhaps I should put a 3/4' plywood under the trundle so it will slide onto the carpet. If I do will I have to lift the trundle back onto the plywood. Any ideas?

Any advice on bunkbeds or trundles. Any thoughts on the ladder? Thanks for any help you may be able to give.

 

[merrill77]

Mike,

I'm planning a workbench as my next big project. Among oodles of other research, I've read both of Chris Schwartz's workbench books. IMO, they are both excellent and worth every penny. I won't be following every one of his recommendations...or for that matter, building a bench that resembles anything in his books. But I've learned a lot and have changed my plans quite a bit based on what I've learned there.

One interesting bit for hand-tool benches was the affect of the type of planes you use on the height of the bench: wood planes tend to put your hands about 2-3 inches higher than a similar iron plane - and therefore calls for a lower bench. I would have never thought about that.

In general, power-tools required a higher bench than hand tools. He points out that it is easier to raise the bench surface (with spacers on the benchtop) than it is to lower it.

He talks a LOT about clamping techniques for various tasks. I suspect everyone here can learn a thing or two from that section. I know I did.

 

[merrill77]

As I mentioned at lunch the other day, I am working on a version of the New Fangled Workbench from Fine Woodworking

I also really like that bench. I'm currently planning a bench - I started with that basic design and started modifying it. Then I read Schwartz's books and started changing more things. I'm on my third version now in SketchUp :> I think I'm satisfied with the design and am eager to start building. It is now substantially different than the NFWB, but several features are clearly inspired by it - particularly the pipe-clamp planing beam and vices (I have a vice on my current work surface made from pipe clamps and it has worked reasonably well for me).

And I think I can speak for everyone here when I say "Yes, we want to see pictures of your new workbench when it's done!"

 

[CrealBilly]

Wider is better just ask Pontiac - oh wait you can't they are out of business - I wonder why?

 

[Guy in Paradise]

Well, I have to disagree with most here. I made the Schwartz Roubo (pictures in my profile), size 21 x 66, and find the size to be perfect. Found a great deal on some 4S oak timbers, 4x8x6' and some 6x6, from a construction project, and have a wonderful, solid bench. Since the pictures were taken I have added some dog holes and another vice on the other end.

 

[Mike Davis]

I definitely want a hand tool bench, I use metal planes so I know where the height needs to be. My shop is small so that is very important to leave enough room to work around it. Narrow and long as possible sounds right. I hate to stand on my head to reach things so drawers not cabinets underneath. Clamping is the prime directive as I have struggled with work holding for far too long. I have a side vise and I'm thinking about building a unique end vise. More thinking on that will have to transpire.

Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. I have both of Chris's bench books and a couple others. I guess I'm waiting for an opportunistic moment.

 

[Jeff]

Mike,

+1 to some sort of new-fangled workbench suggested above by Steve Honeycutt. Easily customized for your specific needs and easily constructed. This one is nominally 61" x 26" x 38". It works well in my limited space.

 

[merrill77]

+1 to some sort of new-fangled workbench suggested above by Steve Honeycutt. Easily customized for your specific needs and easily constructed. This one is nominally 61" x 26" x 38". It works well in my limited space.

Jeff,

I see you've had that bench for a few years now - how do you like it? Does the planing beam work as well as advertised? Is it sturdy enough for planing? What would you change if you had to build it again?

Chris

 

[Steve_Honeycutt]

I am planning to make a double bunkbed with two trundles for my Grandchildren. I 'm worried about the wheels of the trundle needing to be lifted on to the carpet. Perhaps I should put a 3/4' plywood under the trundle so it will slide onto the carpet. If I do will I have to lift the trundle back onto the plywood. Any ideas?

Any advice on bunkbeds or trundles. Any thoughts on the ladder? Thanks for any help you may be able to give.

I have a trundle bed (store bought) and it rolls just fine on carpet. You might want to try it before committing to the plywood underlayment.

I noticed that you are new to the forum. If you haven't already, you might want to introduce yourself in the "Who we are" forum.

Steve

 

[Jeff]

Jeff,

I see you've had that bench for a few years now - how do you like it? Does the planing beam work as well as advertised? Is it sturdy enough for planing? What would you change if you had to build it again?

Chris

It's my first woodworking bench and I did very little research up-front about these things. My thought was not to build the ultimate bench, but just build something that was cheap and functional for my perceived needs as a new woodworker. The original design by John White seemed to fit the bill so I went with it and customized the dimensions, etc.

1. Added a 2 x 4 stretcher to the rear leg assembly to minimize potential racking of the entire unit. Lag screws at each end and a pocket hole screw on opposite faces of the 2 x 4 where it connects to the leg.

2. Edge-banded most of the perimeter with 1 x 4 FSRO from the BORG. Countersunk pocket hole screws secure these to the frame and top.

I really like the overall versatility and functionality of the entire unit. Lots of innovative ways to clamp work pieces in addition to the end and face pipe clamp setups in the original design.

The vertically adjustable planing beam works like a charm for lots of things (check out the video posted above by Steve Honeycutt). When you need 4 hands, but only have 2 it's a real lifesaver.

 

[LeftyTom]

Mike, if it won't fit in your shop, get a bigger hammer!

 

[Gofor]

I definitely want a hand tool bench, I use metal planes so I know where the height needs to be. My shop is small so that is very important to leave enough room to work around it. Narrow and long as possible sounds right. I hate to stand on my head to reach things so drawers not cabinets underneath. Clamping is the prime directive as I have struggled with work holding for far too long. I have a side vise and I'm thinking about building a unique end vise. More thinking on that will have to transpire.

Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. I have both of Chris's bench books and a couple others. I guess I'm waiting for an opportunistic moment.

Doing a lot of hand planing myself on occasion, I find the biggest problem is holding boards for face planing, primarily when I am scrub planing or knocking off a lot of twist and cup when traversing the wood sideways and diagonally. When planing along the grain, my tail vise and bench dogs do fine, but to hold against side movement, I am now using a thinner board held by hold-fasts as a block. That requires me to stay very conscious of where the holdfasts are to keep from hitting them. There has to be a better way, but I haven't found it yet, other than putting a bunch of dog holes all over the bench top to allow for different widths and lengths of boards, which I don't want to do.

Speaking of holdfasts, if you plan on them you will need to make sure there is clearance under the top for their length. That is why I do not have drawers under mine.

Awaiting to see what you come up with.

Go