Sanding question - Need to Improve my Techniques

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Mark Johnson

Mark
Corporate Member
I have been making some projects that involve a ton of glue joints, and I am mating woods of vastly differing hardness. When I sand through all my grits (Festool RO 150). I get a smooth surface, but not an even surface. The more dense woods are proud. I show an example product below. The entire surface is a gradual curve in one direction or another, but I would like to have that completely flat surface as well as a silky smooth one. What should I do differently?
IMG_7293.JPG

 

pcooper

Phillip Cooper
Corporate Member
Could you begin with a good drum sander then go with the hand sander? If you were working with only face grain, maybe a planer would also be a good place to start, really sharp knives so there is less sanding. I know my DeWalt planer gives a really great finish before sanding, I've not tried anything like this in my drum sander yet. Not sure what kind of equipment you have available, but might be a good reason (read excuse) to invest in a new tool!!
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
It is a question of how flexible the sanding pad is. A metal sanding drum would be at one end of the spectrum and something like my old Rockwell about at the other end. It seems your Festool has a more flexible sanding pad than you prefer. I've noticed in videos that Festool sanders have different pads, is a harder one available?
 

Mark Johnson

Mark
Corporate Member
A harder pad is probably a good place to start. Using a planer, even with sharp knives, is probably a little risky because any tear out at that late stage is a disaster. Drum sander is a good idea as well, just a pricey one.
Thanks for the inputs!!
 

striker

New User
Stephen
I'd consider parking the RO till late stage finishing. In leiu, of the RO possibly a scraping plane or card scraper to minimize the tear out risk. Also a good sized sanding board could be used to rough it in.
 

JohnnyR

John
Corporate Member
ditto Striker's comment (although nothings better for this than a drum sander)
That's one striking pizza peel!
One other note, if this is going to be used and washed, make sure you wet it before final sanding and sand again after your first coat. Learned that after sending an end grain cutting board across country. Followed it up with sending some sand paper and re-finishing instructions.

Welcome to our site!
 

ehpoole

Moderator
Ethan
You may find that a stiffer pad with adhesive backed sanding sheets for your RO does a better job as there will be less give than with a softer pad plus the give of hook and loop.

However, if you do not mind old school then you may find that a hard sanding block does as well or better.

Basically, you need a hard enough reference surface that it will not give on the high spots (harder woods) while still confirming too (and thus sanding) the low spots (softer woods). If it is hard enough and flat enough, and the sandpaper tightly stretched across it, then everything should sand much flatter.

This is a problem that I have also encountered with woods like Southern a Yellow Pine, which has alternating very hard and soft growth rings.
 

Sealeveler

Tony
Corporate Member
A board sander would work followed with as hard a pad that is available for your sander.Do most of your fairing/sanding with the coarsest grit you can use then progress through the finer grits only removing scratches from the previous grit.I have used board sanders as long as 4' long to fair hulls on sport fishing boats.

Tony
 

Phil S

Phil Soper
Staff member
Corporate Member
The standard pad on the RO150 is medium hardness. The hard pad is #496149, it will make a difference
 

bwat

New User
Bill
You might also consider using the ETS finish sander versus the RO as you progress into higher grits. I find the tighter stroke makes a difference At later sanding stages.
 

jazzflute

Kevin
Corporate Member
See if you can find a local drum sander, its by far the best tool for this job.

Except for a wide belt sander with a platen...

Hmm.... Now I wonder who might have one of those in an industrial park in North Durham?

;-)

Just for reference, it is about three minutes work to take this from its fresh-from-glue-up state to a 150 grit absolutely flat finish on a wide belt sander. Then hit with the Festool—or, purely hypothetically, a dynabrade RO air sander, which is MUCH easier on the hands, err hypothetically, of course—and you are ready for finish.

K
 

chris_goris

Chris
Senior User
Except for a wide belt sander with a platen...

Hmm.... Now I wonder who might have one of those in an industrial park in North Durham?

;-)


Just for reference, it is about three minutes work to take this from its fresh-from-glue-up state to a 150 grit absolutely flat finish on a wide belt sander. Then hit with the Festool—or, purely hypothetically, a dynabrade RO air sander, which is MUCH easier on the hands, err hypothetically, of course—and you are ready for finish.

K



I was merely appealing to the more general woodworking community here and what most of us have access to…… I dont think it would be much more than 10 minutes work with my drum sander though.
 

jazzflute

Kevin
Corporate Member
I was merely appealing to the more general woodworking community here and what most of us have access to…… I dont think it would be much more than 10 minutes work with my drum sander though.

And there is the problem; as I've been told many times, I'm unappealing.

Beyond that, my somewhat obtuse point was that I would be happy to make some time available on my sander, hence providing access to at least one very small part of the general woodworking community.

K
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
And there is the problem; as I've been told many times, I'm unappealing.

Beyond that, my somewhat obtuse point was that I would be happy to make some time available on my sander, hence providing access to at least one very small part of the general woodworking community.

K
Kevin-
"Generally a woodworking community in and of himself!" (perhaps even a village?!)
 
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